voreos

I know a decent amount about cars. Worked on all I have owned, but am new to rotaries and imports.

Just bought '87 FC as project. Originally was going to do a v8 swap, but reading around and doing some thinking I convinced myself to go with the rotor. Guy said wouldn't start so got for $500. Thus I followed the basics I know about cars. First see if it cranks. It does. Has half tank gas according to gauge (he says is accurate)

My problem is it'll crank all day but seems to be getting no spark. I managed ot locate the coil packs. Didn't have voltmeter handy to did jerry rigged test and seem to be getting no spark from there. Fuses are all good what would be next suggestion to check? (have basic Haynes manual in mail going to read when it's here)

Any tips/help would be appreciated. Just trying to get it to run enough to drive 2 miles to get t registered for now. Prolly pull engine eventually and go from there.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does the Main Relay click w/key to on, if it doesn't then check the Engine fuse in the interior fuse box. Does the Black/Yellow wire at the two wire plug connected to the leading coil have voltage w/key to on?

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

You could always test each plug/wire individually. Pull each plug one at a time, with wire still connected, and have a buddy crank on the car and see if the plug is firing.

voreos

Going to check that Satch sometime in next few days. Crummy weather ATM and no garage. Burnt I checked each coil at the plug wire connection should I still check the plug?

Thanks for the prompt responses...damn snow

sctRota

iTrader: (2)

Why dont you get the timing thing? I remember I picked an Rx up and that was the reason he gave it away to me

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You should give a little more info.
like when did the car run last?.When was that Half tank of gas put in?
Did you compression test the engine?.Did you try to de-flood the engine.
can you smell gas in the tail pipe?..Gas smell in oil( means it flooded before)?
Change the spark plugs on it lately?.Oil change/Fuel filter changed?

voreos

I would say it's been at least a few months since it last ran. (I didn't own it then). I have not done compression test, I'm assuming the fuel in it is Old. Didn't try deflood yet so i'll look into that. Have not smelled exhaust didn't even think about it. Oil filter is new. Oil could use change. Not sure on plugs last change though I checked for "spark" at the coil not the plug and had nothing. Should I try a plug to?

The previous owner had a switch installed to the injectors to prevent flooding so I'd assume it flooded previously. I supposed I should also mention I'm new to EFI. But I'll check the few things you mentioned that i haven't and get back. Thanks again

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

check that switch too..if it is OFF(open) you are not getting any injector signal.
That switch may connect to the EGI Fuse so that is why you get nothing.

voreos

I have tried with switch in both positions. But I may have some free time tomorrow after work so gonna run through some of these suggestions. Starting with checking "flooding". If not gonna tear into it tuesday since I'm off. The input has been very appreciative.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

first things first

you need to inspect all the components of the ignition system which first consist of a visual to verify that all parts look to be installed correctly and not damaged... cracked coils , broken connectors frayed or broken wires

you have a fully charged battery
you have power at the coils with the key in both the start and run positions
inspect the hi-tension leads to make sure they are in good condition and properly installed

verify that the plugs are not fouled

make sure the CAS is plugged in and that the wires are not damaged

voreos

CAS Checks out. Leading and trailing coils check out. Not getting power to coils. Going to check wires going to coil next. Thanks for the suggestions. (Checked the coils/CAS according to shop manual for testing it good/bad)

voreos

There is power going to ignitor. So thinking it's the ignitor on leading.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the Black/Yellow wire has voltage w/key to on at the leading coil then try checking the Green/Yellow wire at the same plug. When cranking the engine over by hand by rotating the main pulley which can be done by rotating the alternator pulley w/key to on the voltage on the G/Y wire alternates between two voltage values. It should read 5 volts and then briefly 0 volts and back to 5 volts or vis versa. There needs to be this change as this is the signal to fire the coil coming from the ECU.

voreos

Well satch you may have just solved it. I'm getting no voltage what so ever. I'm assuming I didn't need to rotate it real fast? Can try again with an extra set of hands if it needs to rotate faster more consistent.

voreos

I also probably should have said it before. The thought didn't cross my mind though. When you turn the key on you get a high pitch beep/buzz it's constant no "pattern". I wrote it off as just telling me key in ignition with door open. Might it mean more? Like an error code?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The main pulley needs to rotate a couple of times to get a good reading. The voltage either changes from 0 to 5 or 5 to 0, but it is one or the other. One voltage value lasts for a while and then very briefly it changes before going back to the previous value. If it doesn't change at all w/key to on then test for battery voltage at a check connector that has four wires near the leading coil. W/key to on the Black/White wire needs to have 12 volts as this wire powers the ECU. If it does then test the Brown wire at the TPS or Pressure Sensor w/key to on as it should read 5 volts w/key to on. This would prove that the ECU is indeed powered by the B/W wire.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Door open are individual beeps. Continous buzz would be like low coolant level and or oil level.

voreos

LOL ok I know the coolant is low. Ill top that off. Going to test those two tomorrow before work. Thanks for the advice btw

voreos

I tested the lead that says it's for the TPS and it tested only 2.5v. Not sure if I had the right connector by leading coil. Looked like it was brown/white wire but wire was dirty. Either way it did test 12v. Thoughts?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS only has three wires. The ground wire is Black. The wire that runs to the ECU from the TPS is Green/Red and the last wire is Brown/White and it has 5 volts w/key to on. You can test the Brown/White wire at the Pressure Sensor or ATP or Variable Resistor as they are all the same wire. If this wire truly has 2.5 volts then something is shorting out the voltage on this wire. If this is the cae then disconnect the AFM and retest the voltage w/key to on at the Brown/White wire.

The Green check connector (the one w/four wires) by the leading coil has three Yellow wires besides the Black/White wire that reads 12 volts w/key to on.

voreos

Ok cool I did test the right wire. Was green connector by TPS with 3 and the brown/white was 2.5 and the one by leading was 12. I will unplug the AFM tomorrow after work and test again. (by the way I appreciate the help a ton. Learning a lot.)

voreos

Thought of something I should possibly add. I realized that when I turn the ignition to on or even crank it that none of the "warning lights" come on like in most cars were the flash on for a sec. Might this be related? Also I read in another thread that the ECU can lead to this if bad grounding to alternator. Assuming that'd be worth checking.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Last statement doesn't compute. If you're getting 2.5 volts on the Vref wire, which connects to most of the engine sensors, then the car will run very poorly. Something is lowering the voltage from what should be 5 volts. The AFM is the likely culprit. If not then it is one of the other engine sensors; TPS, Variable Resistor, ATP or Pressure sensor and even just the Brown/White wire itself grounding out.

Pull the two wire plug off of the back of the alternator and ground the White/Black wire. Other wire in plug is Black/White so do not confuse the two. W/the W/B wire grounded and key to on the idiot/warning lights should come on. Check for this and see what happens. W/key to on the alternator is supposed to place a ground on the White/Black wire. If it doesn't then the alternator needs replacement.

ericconn

I wouldn't let the fact it's a rotary trick you, if you know cars in general just go through the normal things you'd look for in any other car.

voreos

Yea I've done what I know there. Unfortunately I'm still disadvantaged. I should have said I know older cars. I'm not experienced much with anything passed 70's so the computers and sensors lose me fairly quick, but I'm reading and learning all I can.