BoostFrenzy

62k miles, needs clutch, haven't driven it on the road yet, sitting for awhile.

I have a pretty advanced knowledge of other cars, no clue on this one

When started cold it typically runs EXCESSIVELY WAY TOO RICH, puffs straight fuel (grey/white in color, NOT coolant) for first minute or two, cleans right up as it gets warmer, I *repeat* this is not oil or coolant.

On the times it doesn't flood out fuel I get some oil for 3-5 seconds

any tips?

when it's warmed up it runs and revs up fine, no smoke, no problems or stutters.

plugs?

I checked the vacuum connections on the MAP sensor & pressure tank, were a smidge loose but not leaking, tightened up turbo inlet & intercooler connections, no check engine light, starts fairly easily, no coolant/oil missing, idles forever no problem and clean once warm.... seems to rev slower than i'm used to but prolly normal

write up for plug replacement?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Start with the basic maintenence since you just got the car:

1. Oil/filter change
2. Air filter change
3. Spark plug change
4. O2 sensor change
5. Coolant flush

The stuff shooting out the exhaust, while black, isn't really oil per say. It's condensation coming out of the exhaust which just happens to be dark/black since your exhaust is coated with carbon and other deposits. It's completely normal.


https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

BoostFrenzy

no i'm saying it CLOUDS grey/white FUEL at cold start, i just talked to a rotary shop and they told me the injectors are "notorious" for leaking when the car is off so what i'm seeing is the burnoff from it sitting that leaked out of the injectors, then it cleans up once it's started, so it's essentially flooded when i got to start it

and also not to worry about the few puffs of oil because it injects coolant/oil into the combustion process at start by default to protect the seals

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't say "notorious", but it's one of the most under-serviced areas people usually deal with...

Inject oil, yes. Coolant, NO!

BoostFrenzy

oh ok, when it doesn't go uber rich it does throw some oil out the tailpipe for 2-3 seconds, i'll disregard this problem

i'll run some BG44K through the gas when i get it running and see if it helps the injectors

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you are dumping a lot of smoke out in the morning, then that's not really a good thing. Start with the maintenence items first; if it still continues then start troubleshooting it.

PDF

Sounds like water seals are on their way out. Battys are good at blowing water seals, especially after sitting for a while. White/gray smoke is most likely steam. Fuel is black, oil blue. You say oil comes out on startup, if you mean a black fluid out of the tail pipe it'll be water mixed with carbon. The reason the steam(if it is) clears is because running the engine pressurises the cooling system which in turn pushes water/coolant back past the waterseals into the combustion chamber(housing) when engine is stopped. This water turns to steam when engine is started again but soon clears as combustion pressure reverses flow back into cooling system.
This can be difficult to diagnose in early stages, particularly if you can't actually drive the car yet.

If it is black smoke do a diagnostics check, a dead air temp or water temp sensor can play havoc with fueling, more so when warm tho.

BoostFrenzy

I would have agreed that it's coolant, however it smells strongly of fuel and not antifreeze burning, coolant levels are full

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind that if the coolant seals are or have failed, you aren't "solely" burning coolant. The engine burning coolant and fuel together won't have a coolant smell like when you sniff an open container of anti-freeze.

BoostFrenzy

in my expierence burning coolant is BRIGHT white and smells sweet, this is closer to grey than white and smells like fuel, burns nose/eyes like raw fuel... i'm putting the clutch in tonight and i'll change the plugs and go run her

BTW what size is the flywheel bolt? I have a impact wrench capable of delivering 625lb/ft so I was hoping that'd do the trick

wish me luck because this car will most likely be available for trade of rolling FD chassis + cash when it's perfect

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

54mm or 2 1/8" (if you can't find a 54mm). You'll probably need a flywheel stopper as well as a pilot bearing puller.

Read the link I provided in your other thread for things you might need:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/clutch-change-stock-fd-192545/