Rideharder

Now as to why I'm here... I am planning a drag truck, either a datsun 620 or a s10 first gen with a 12a/13b hybrid
Plan is 12a front cover, 84-85 oil injected housing, 84-85 center and 12a rear cover with 89-92 rotating assembly if I can find it. If not just the pre 86 assembly.

This will get me a 9.5/9.7:1 engine
4port
Mechanical ignition
With a large turbo at 15psi
On Propane
with either a BP or large street port. UN desided here but probabaly a bp
Msd ignition box for Rev limit and 2step launch control. With hot coils

My issue is lack of knowledge on thies

For 1, will my engine setup actualy fit and work together.

2- any foreseen issues with this plan?

3- is dowling or race clearance needed?

4- what could I expect for hp? 9.5:1 @ 15psi On 105+ octane I'm guessing around the 400-420 mark??? - would go higher on boost but I've found impco's are harder to control under higher boost

5- what is a good set of seals to run in this application.
Again budget minded here but not as far as to compromise to save a buck

Oh and 6 -whats a good spec turbo, I have a few in mind but unsure. Thinking a 72mm with a 1.1 Ar exhaust as that's what I have. Also a 82mm but I think thats a bit large for this build..

Will be running a 5 speed with 4.30 or 4.56 gears and a linelock in a 2000-2500# truck

This is not a driver and is being built as a moderately cheap race truck. ( I know cheap and race usually don't fit together)

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

1. it will assemble and work together just fine. however, if you're going to go through the trouble of piecing this thing together, then why not use the SE front cover, too and get all 4 lines?

2. this is just an opinion, so it's neither here nor there, but some of the custom work (it's mostly minor stuff since i'm assuming you have at least some fabrication skills since you're undertaking this project) you could save yourself by just using a turbo block from jump. also what's going to happen when you want more power? you've already stated that this is a race vehicle, so it's bound to happen.

3. neither is needed if you keep within the limits (revs, detonation, spikes, etc.), but it's probably a VERY good idea since this is a race car/truck.

4. i have no idea.

5. honestly, it really comes down to what you want and what fits your budget. i really can't think of any seal that other people haven't used with at least some degree of success. i would say keep it simple. go OEM or Goopy.

6. the turbo specs are going to come down to whether or not you decide to bridge port or not. hotside requirements are different.

now, just a couple random things:
- is there a particular reason why you want to set up an older block as opposed to just using a turbo block off the bat?
- start off with stock ports. bridges have a steeper learning curve and since you're going turbo, it's even more steep. start at the shallow end.
- i'm not sure what you mean by mechanical ignition. points? or are you simply referring to something with a distributor or distributor-like CAS as opposed to the reluctor wheels?
- what are you planning to use for management?

Rideharder

Just factory dizzy from 12a fed with 2msd box's all mechanical fuel and spark, no ecu needed. Guess I could go with the later reduction wheel dizzy but not sure how to handle coil over plug with that.
Will start with a port also.

Also I guess I shouldn't have said drag truck it's more insure it for summer and take it to the track for instant green mild competition, run what ya brung for fun deal.

I'm using older stiff cause I need a distributor and I want 4port. Plus I have 2of the 3 engines I need for a case of beer not much invested yet.

Rideharder

Esentually it's a blow though carb setup but with propane is how it's setup

Rideharder

Yea fab work is kinda my thing.
I have a 67 chev 2wd slamed on air bags with a twin turbo cummins and fullmanual vb auto - still in build stage. Should be 450hp with the ve pump

49 *****'s fLat fender jeep with link suspension on toyota diffs and a supercharged 4.3 on propane - also in build stage on 10psi

S10 pickup one ton difs and 44" tires with a twin turbo sbc 350 on propane 8psi

And lastly a 80' Toyota 4x4 link suspension and a soon to be twin turbo charged 2lt-ii toyota diesel ( diesel is already swaped and it's my daily driver)

I know adversity well just don't know rotary that we'll yet.

Rideharder

Oh also I can't swap the se's omp to the 12a and use the 4 oil lines?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

well maybe since you do fabrication you can figure something out, but the 12A and 13B pumps don't interchange.

you already have most of the parts and you're going to use a carb and distributor. okay, gotcha. well, be sure to make a build thread.

Rideharder

Hmm didn't know they didn't interchange, what is the difference? I planed on remote 2stroke reservoir also

I'm still in gathering mode so don't expect too much progress on this any time soon. ��

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i think they have different contours and bolt patterns. what i remember for sure is when i did my first 13B swap, i bought an SE cover brand new (so it didn't come with a pump) and when i tried the 12A pump that i had, it wouldn't fit. so i ended up using an S4 pump that i had and it fit perfectly.