Mixing up different weight rotors?
08-02-07, 01:54 PM
#1
Saiga-12 Power!
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Mixing up different weight rotors?
I have 2 s4 TII rotors I would like to use in my next build, only thing is they are not the same stamped weight or the next step up or down from each other. One is a C the other is an E. Are these OK to use together, or do I need to get a Rotor that is within 1 letter of either of these?
I will probably be lightening the rotors and balancing them anyway, but if I don't and just use them as is will they be ok? I've read stories about people opening mazda remans that had much larger differences in rotors, such as a B and an E
, and they didn't have any issues with it running that way. What do the experts here have to say about this?
I will probably be lightening the rotors and balancing them anyway, but if I don't and just use them as is will they be ok? I've read stories about people opening mazda remans that had much larger differences in rotors, such as a B and an E
, and they didn't have any issues with it running that way. What do the experts here have to say about this?
08-07-07, 12:52 AM
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On Rotaryillustrated site, they said you could go two letters and be ok...55gram difference.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...ight_balancing
I just got done watching it like 5 mins ago.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...ight_balancing
I just got done watching it like 5 mins ago.
08-19-07, 09:27 PM
#3
JuiceH
1st off do you have an original engine with original rotating assembly? If not was it rebuilt with the original rotating assembly? There are some things you need to really consider when you open your engine up.
If you want your engine to stay in "perfect" balance, you want to find rotor weights that match what you already have inside your engine. And not something lighter or heavier. A lot of people here on this forum don't understand that the factory counter weights have holes drilled in it to further balance the rotating assembly. Though Mazda only offers one counter weight for the whole rotating assembly, you have to understand that one counter weight isn't going to perfectly balance a rotary engine that has 5 different rotor weight combinations. Remember you have rotors that vary from "A" the heaviest thru "E" the lightest. Swapping in difference rotors that don't match the balance of your counter weight, will have a minor effect on balance.
Example: Lets say your engine was factory balanced with 1 "A" and 1 "B". You decide to rebuild the engine with 2 "C" because they are a perfect match. Guess what "C" rotors are heavier than the "A's" and "B's" that were originally there. The heavier rotors will negatively effect your balance some. I should know because this above example is of my own rebuild. My engine isn't as smooth as it once was and vibrates. The two stamp rule at the very minimum is to keep the rotors close to themselves in weight. What you need to worry about is keeping the weights as close to what you originally had in the 1st place. Soo..
If your original rotating assembly has 2 "C", a safe range would be "B"-"C"......or "C"- "D" ........ or "B"-"D".
Now if you have "A"-"B", do not use "D"-"E" as these are much lighter. Understand?
1st off do you have an original engine with original rotating assembly? If not was it rebuilt with the original rotating assembly? There are some things you need to really consider when you open your engine up.
If you want your engine to stay in "perfect" balance, you want to find rotor weights that match what you already have inside your engine. And not something lighter or heavier. A lot of people here on this forum don't understand that the factory counter weights have holes drilled in it to further balance the rotating assembly. Though Mazda only offers one counter weight for the whole rotating assembly, you have to understand that one counter weight isn't going to perfectly balance a rotary engine that has 5 different rotor weight combinations. Remember you have rotors that vary from "A" the heaviest thru "E" the lightest. Swapping in difference rotors that don't match the balance of your counter weight, will have a minor effect on balance.
Example: Lets say your engine was factory balanced with 1 "A" and 1 "B". You decide to rebuild the engine with 2 "C" because they are a perfect match. Guess what "C" rotors are heavier than the "A's" and "B's" that were originally there. The heavier rotors will negatively effect your balance some. I should know because this above example is of my own rebuild. My engine isn't as smooth as it once was and vibrates. The two stamp rule at the very minimum is to keep the rotors close to themselves in weight. What you need to worry about is keeping the weights as close to what you originally had in the 1st place. Soo..
If your original rotating assembly has 2 "C", a safe range would be "B"-"C"......or "C"- "D" ........ or "B"-"D".
Now if you have "A"-"B", do not use "D"-"E" as these are much lighter. Understand?
Last edited by t-von; 08-19-07 at 09:36 PM.
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