Mazda RX7 FD Wont Start- Please Help
05-23-12, 04:33 AM
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Mazda RX7 FD Wont Start- Please Help
Hi, I have a Mazda RX7 series 8 2000 model and all of a sudden it just won't start. The engine winds over but it just wont start, which is strange because it was fine before, but now it just wont start, a mechanic looked at it and said the coils weren't firing and the injectors were not working and he could not get is started. What could cause this? any ideas? what should i test? also does anyone have a wiring diagram in english for the series 8? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
05-23-12, 07:08 AM
#2
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No english copy for S8.
Depends on why the coils aren't firing. If they have no power, it could be a ground or a power problem. If they are getting power, then they aren't getting signal from the ECU to fire.
Our US S6 FD's have a big issue with the coil harness. Will cause a no start condition. I know Mazda fixed the issue with their newer harnesses but I don't know when or if they ever made it onto a production car or if it was only redesigned after the fact.
A better mechanic should be able to trace something like this. It's pretty easy to check for power, ground and signal.
EDIT: Totally missed that the injectors weren't firing either. EGI relay might be playing tricks on you?
Keep that coil harness thing in mind though. Hope I helped.
Depends on why the coils aren't firing. If they have no power, it could be a ground or a power problem. If they are getting power, then they aren't getting signal from the ECU to fire.
Our US S6 FD's have a big issue with the coil harness. Will cause a no start condition. I know Mazda fixed the issue with their newer harnesses but I don't know when or if they ever made it onto a production car or if it was only redesigned after the fact.
A better mechanic should be able to trace something like this. It's pretty easy to check for power, ground and signal.
EDIT: Totally missed that the injectors weren't firing either. EGI relay might be playing tricks on you?
Keep that coil harness thing in mind though. Hope I helped.
Last edited by RotaryRX-007; 05-23-12 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Reading skillz
05-24-12, 05:00 AM
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Yeah the coils and the injectors both have power going to them, but still wont fire, I checked the EGI relay it seems to be working fine, checked the CAS it seems to be working fine, might check the coolant sensor or the throttle sensor. Does anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram even if its not in english?
05-24-12, 11:59 AM
#4
Yeah the coils and the injectors both have power going to them, but still wont fire, I checked the EGI relay it seems to be working fine, checked the CAS it seems to be working fine, might check the coolant sensor or the throttle sensor. Does anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram even if its not in english?
if you say the injectors and coils are both getting power then i dont think both the injectors and coils would die ..
I sincerely doubt that everything broke at once .
make sure that all your fuses are good . make sure that the fuel pump is working .
and if all the coils stopped working . it could be the igniter but if it were the igniter you wouldnt be getting power to the coils also did he check Both pos and ground , because somethings on the FD have constant positive , but pulsate using ground.
05-25-12, 07:07 AM
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yeah the mechanic told me he checked all the fuses, how many fuses are there that affect the coils and injectors? he also said that the fuel pump is working because it has pressure. He hasn't checked the pos and ground yet, how does he check both the pos and ground? thanks for your help its greatly appreciated, this has been driving me crazy, nobody knows whats wrong with it so far one auto electrician and two mechanics have looked at it and have no idea why it wont start 
05-25-12, 04:47 PM
#6
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Coolant temp sensor wouldn't cause a no start. Nor would a tps, I don't think. Is the car stock? Check engine light still work and be able to check codes? Being a 2000, OBD2 scanner would be able to read the ECU codes.
Maybe fried ECU? If the CAS checks out OK and the coils have power, there is only one more factor in the equation... ECU.
Maybe fried ECU? If the CAS checks out OK and the coils have power, there is only one more factor in the equation... ECU.
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05-29-12, 02:27 PM
#8
probably flooded it pull all the plugs pull fp fuse or disconnect under the carpet in the rear
crank 15 20 sec until fuel mist is gone wait 30 sec crank again for 15 20 sec. put in about a teasespoon of oil in each leading plug whole and bump the starter a few times. wipe away any excess with a rag (oil re lubricates the rotor housings)
clean plugs or replace them put everything back together plug fp back up turn key to on to prime the fuel line then start if you dont reflood it will smoke for about 10 min let run til normal operating temp to burn off everything and to heat up spark plugs.
you only get one chance or you will have to rinse and repeat
crank 15 20 sec until fuel mist is gone wait 30 sec crank again for 15 20 sec. put in about a teasespoon of oil in each leading plug whole and bump the starter a few times. wipe away any excess with a rag (oil re lubricates the rotor housings)
clean plugs or replace them put everything back together plug fp back up turn key to on to prime the fuel line then start if you dont reflood it will smoke for about 10 min let run til normal operating temp to burn off everything and to heat up spark plugs.
you only get one chance or you will have to rinse and repeat
05-30-12, 06:33 AM
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Hi thanks for your post, but unfortunately the mechanic had taken out all the plugs and cleaned them and put them back in, but it still wont start, I don't think he tried putting oil in the plug hole or bumping the starter but he said the spark plugs where fairly clean and he didn't think it was flooded. The mechanic has had the car for nearly two weeks now and still can't get it started
05-30-12, 11:52 AM
#11
does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to on? if not then check the "engine" fuse in the interior fuse panel.
and have him double check for fuel and ignition. i really cannot tell you how many times i have heard someone say "no fuel or ignition" and then later find out the car had both and was simply flooded. most people get lazy and sniff the tailpipe and check for spark with a timing light, neither is a real test AT ALL.
and have him double check for fuel and ignition. i really cannot tell you how many times i have heard someone say "no fuel or ignition" and then later find out the car had both and was simply flooded. most people get lazy and sniff the tailpipe and check for spark with a timing light, neither is a real test AT ALL.
06-01-12, 08:09 AM
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I asked the mechanic to check all the fuses and relays and he said they were fine, and that there couldn't be any problems with them because there was power to the coils and injectors and the fuel pump was working, im not sure if this is true. I think i will get it towed back to my garage because the mechanic doesn't know whats wrong with it and he admited today that he cant fix it. I will check all the fuses and relays and if they are ok then i'll check if the unflood procedure helps and go from there.
06-02-12, 10:44 PM
#13
When was the last time you checked your trigger sensors? Is this a stock ecu? If the mount is cracked or they have no magnetic pull then it might be the cause. If you pull the plugs and dc the fuel pump turn over the engine like you are trying to deflood and you get a thick mist that smells like fuel then fp and injectors are working, caveat to this is how well and why?
the way you can definitely check for spark is strip the ends off of a decent gage wire three ft long or so, wrap one end around the threads of the plug and the other end around a good known ground. plug the spark plug into every plug wire and the crank engine one plug wire at a time (away from engine as far as possible and fp dc'ed) as to not start a fire. This will insure spark. Fumes from the plug holes will insure fuel then move on to next portion of trouble shooting
the way you can definitely check for spark is strip the ends off of a decent gage wire three ft long or so, wrap one end around the threads of the plug and the other end around a good known ground. plug the spark plug into every plug wire and the crank engine one plug wire at a time (away from engine as far as possible and fp dc'ed) as to not start a fire. This will insure spark. Fumes from the plug holes will insure fuel then move on to next portion of trouble shooting
06-05-12, 08:19 AM
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Got it started! took it to another mechanic and he found it had a faulty controller valve got it replaced yesterday and away it went. Its going well now 
Thank you to everyone who helped it was greatly appreciated, am so glad I have resolved this, it was starting to drive me mad.
Thank you to everyone who helped it was greatly appreciated, am so glad I have resolved this, it was starting to drive me mad.
06-07-12, 10:07 AM
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Turbo controller valve under the intake was replaced, the mechanic was very honest and reliable and showed me exactly what was done, highly recommend him, if you are looking for a really good rotary mechanic in brisbane pm me and i'll send the details.
07-24-12, 12:05 PM
#22
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Well what I would do is get someone to tow you/get a good pace with your car drop it in third and dump the clutch when the key is on. See if for whatever reason it starts up. Another thing I would do is check your cas. This is something that would regulate both problems (injectors and spark). Borrow one from a buddy or simply buy a new one. I think in the manual it even says to swap this part out after 100k. Could he mistaken but I'm sure I saw it
11-02-12, 08:39 AM
#23
RE Suikoayanajim
Similar problem
Got it started! took it to another mechanic and he found it had a faulty controller valve got it replaced yesterday and away it went. Its going well now Thank you to everyone who helped it was greatly appreciated, am so glad I have resolved this, it was starting to drive me mad.
Thank you to everyone who helped it was greatly appreciated, am so glad I have resolved this, it was starting to drive me mad.I am really glad your 7 started kicking again
, i have a similar problem like yours but mine used to take time to start, after couple of attempts of cranking then it works, it's really annoying! after i drive and when the engine is hot, then it's fine to start it again!But when i go back home for the night, the next day i start it 80% of the time the problem comes back again, it won't start right away!. My friend told me that when the car engine when it is cold it needs more spark from the plugs to start the engine, while when it is hot it only needs little spark to turn on the engine, so i am guessing if it's my coil packs, spark plugs or ignitor.
So Am asking if my problem is same as yours? Turbo Control Valve? or my Coil Packs and Ignitor?
Please Help anyone
