MAZDA Hard Chrome and Soft Nitriding
02-25-09, 05:35 PM
#1
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MAZDA Hard Chrome and Soft Nitriding
I hope this solves some problems and helps on decision making money savings on the long run. http://jhbperformance.com/downloads/jhb-tech01oem.pdf
02-26-09, 02:51 PM
#2
The article essentially argues that rotor housings and side housings undergo special treatment from the factory to improve life and sealing capability which the aftermarket cannot reproduce. Re-chroming services cannot reproduce special factory coatings and the patterns in the chrome (pores and channels) which are designed to reduce friction and the resulting chatter marks, chrome flaking, and scratching.
The top layer of material in the side housings contain a special coating from the factory that increases hardness and reduces friction, and when you lap the irons you lose that too.
It's pretty interesting, but it really needs to cite its sources. Where are those diagrams coming from? Who wrote the thing?
The top layer of material in the side housings contain a special coating from the factory that increases hardness and reduces friction, and when you lap the irons you lose that too.
It's pretty interesting, but it really needs to cite its sources. Where are those diagrams coming from? Who wrote the thing?
02-27-09, 07:47 PM
#4
I havnt seen anyone succesfully rechrome rotor housings.
Side plates are easy done.
Machining them is one thing.
they must be rehardened.
Their is a place in aus that does it. They bake for 48 hours.
I have done this process now a few times and it comes out excellent and seems to be as tuff as the mazda surface. My current engine has ground and rehardened plates. when it come apart ill put an update.
Has been running 30psi for some time now and boost usually acclerates side plate wear so if something was to go wrong, it would do it in this particular engine.
Side plates are easy done.
Machining them is one thing.
they must be rehardened.
Their is a place in aus that does it. They bake for 48 hours.
I have done this process now a few times and it comes out excellent and seems to be as tuff as the mazda surface. My current engine has ground and rehardened plates. when it come apart ill put an update.
Has been running 30psi for some time now and boost usually acclerates side plate wear so if something was to go wrong, it would do it in this particular engine.
02-27-09, 09:40 PM
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Original Gangster/Rotary!
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As I understand it as long as you only lap off 3-4 thousands of an inch you retain (some of) the hardened coating. Any more and you lose the coating, and if you really go crazy you don't leave room for the coolant seals.
03-01-09, 08:06 PM
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Time bomb why NOT...
The article essentially argues that rotor housings and side housings undergo special treatment from the factory to improve life and sealing capability which the aftermarket cannot reproduce. Re-chroming services cannot reproduce special factory coatings and the patterns in the chrome (pores and channels) which are designed to reduce friction and the resulting chatter marks, chrome flaking, and scratching.
The top layer of material in the side housings contain a special coating from the factory that increases hardness and reduces friction, and when you lap the irons you lose that too.
It's pretty interesting, but it really needs to cite its sources. Where are those diagrams coming from? Who wrote the thing?
The top layer of material in the side housings contain a special coating from the factory that increases hardness and reduces friction, and when you lap the irons you lose that too.
It's pretty interesting, but it really needs to cite its sources. Where are those diagrams coming from? Who wrote the thing?
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03-01-09, 08:09 PM
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to mi understanding pineaple racing dose but sounds like that 150k miles not hours thats what you meant ?
03-01-09, 08:24 PM
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Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Also, irons don't wear like rotor housings, so there are usually good low mileage ones available on the used parts market......
03-01-09, 11:51 PM
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sorta, the pre rx7 pre nitride housing life is way way shorter than the coated ones. its kind of implied in that paper, but if you ask people who had experience building pre rx7 engines they will tell you you HAVE to lap the plates when the motor is apart.
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