befarrer

iTrader: (1)

Just installed my new to me used TII engine in my B2200, I am wondering whats going on with my oil pressure. I bought it off of someone who purchased it for an RX4 project that he had to give up due to wife pregnancy, so I have no history on this motor.

What I do know is that it has S5 TII housings, S4 TII irons, S4 TII flywheel, S5 Turbo and manifold. Today I found out it has an S3 (GSL-SE) Eccentric shaft due to no thermal pellet, it also has a streetport of some sort, and 3MM apex seals.

When first started cold, my oil pressure is 90-100PSI, even at under 1500RPM, this is on a mechanical gauge from the stock oil pressure port. After the engine warms up it drops, at an oil pan temp of 180f, I am seeing 10PSI or even less at idle. I originally though the thermo pellet was stuck, and upon removing the front pulley bolt, found a blind hole, so 85 or older eccentric shaft. During a free rev to 3500RPM, I see maybe 40psi.

I am running Synthetic 10W30 Diesel engine oil right now because I had a bunch sitting around (have OMP delete), and an FC oil cooler. Before I installed this engine, I pulled the rear stationary gear, the bearing looked quite worn, with a good 1/3 showing copper. I decided to run it with this bearing to see how it worked, not sure if this much bearing wear will cause this low of oil pressure, or if my front cover is leaking.

Looking online, I have too much oil pressure when cold, and too little when hot. I might try putting some Castrol GTX 20W50 in it, see what difference it makes, the engine does seem to run well, it replaced a stock S4 6-port NA motor, and using the same tune on my standalone, running the same injectors this motor is much smoother.

John Huijben

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the person who assembled the engine put in an FD pressure regulator to bump up the oil pressure, and then messed up at the front cover? There is an o-ring between the front iron and front cover that won't work well sometimes when mismatching parts, it sounds like your engine is a candidate for this, read about it here:

https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

Another reason might be is that the bearings are just worn, if the rear bearing is worn, chances are the rest of them are aswell. 10W30 is not the problem, it should make pressure with that just fine.

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

I think I will pull the front cover and see what it looks like. When I had the oil pan off before I installed the engine, I had a look up the front cover to look at the o-ring, nothing looked out of the ordinary, but I was not able to see much.

Here is the rear bearing.
Rear Bearing
Rear Bearing 2

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

Well, I pulled the front cover this morning, and it has the o-ring in tact, surrounded by the white teflonring, they felt sort of hard, but were in the correct place.

I kept digging, pulled the front stationary gear, and good thing I did, looked like it was about to completely fail, had some chunks missing, but from what I can feel and see on the e-shaft journal, it feels fine, no grooves. Now, should I replace both front and rear stationary gears with my spare ones that have near new bearings? I am not sure what the rotor bearings look like.

One question I have is that the old bearings have a jigsaw like pattern where the bearing is connected together, which I have read is normal, however my near new bearings have none, not even a copper strip, can anybody identify these bearings?

First 2 pics are of the bearing in the motor, next 2 are of my spare stationary gear with a newer bearing, last is the e-shaft, hard to get a pic though.

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

Got the newer condition front and rear stationary gears and bearings installed, oil pressure shoots up to over 100psi on first start, and settles down to 25psi at a hot 900RPM idle with 190f oil pan temperature. This is with the same 10W30 Synthetic oil.