MRGSL-SE

L D my Parking gauges light doesn't glow after connecting two wires under the shifter, it's like the connector for the Coolant level sensor on the radiator, its kind of dark orange, it's right under when you remove the boot.

They were not together, and theirs a 2 row female white connector that's also not connected along that part of the harness. I put the female and male dark orange connector together. Also I removed the seat belt sensor connector behind the driver seat just to check if it would remain lit, because even though I don't put my sit belt on, the seat belt light turns off.

She fired right up, but when I clicked the lights first twist for parking lights and gauges, the battery reading jumped down then up and the gauge didn't lit up, but the radio and panel lights and outside yellow lights came on. Then clicked it one more time for the head lights and the head lights came on. But the gauge light are not. So I turned the car off and separated the dark orange connection and put the seat belt sensor connector together and started the car again, but same result. I was thinking of resetting the ecu and hopefully turn on. My worst nightmare is that I've blown a circuit or something... but no clue.... L D if you could help me again.....

thanks

Marques

LongDuck

Check fuses for indicator lights in the fuseblock by drivers left foot. IIRC, there is a blade fuse here for 10A (?) that is used when for the interior lights, and I think the Stereo/Amplifier blade fuse may also run the dashboard lights - if I understand you correctly.

That you mentioned the voltmeter on the dash first went down, and then went up, probably means that when it went down, the connector was drawing too much current, drawing power from the battery, then the fuse blew, allowing the battery voltage to come back up. Most likely, it's just a blown fuse.

If you go through the blade fuses, and they all look ok (use a voltmeter, much more accurate and detects hairline cracks, which eyes don't), then go to the front shocktower, driver's side, and check fusible links. There should be 3 there, 5 for GSL-SE, and top two are Headlights, Engine Main (engine will die if you pull it), and below that, several for Headlights, ECU, and EGI, maybe not in that order - don't have my manuals with me today.

Check these, and get back to us. Maybe it's something simple.

Oh, and BTW, don't plug connectors into each other unless you're POSITIVE they go together! I mark mine with black magic marker lines to be sure that they belong 'mated' together. HTH,

MRGSL-SE

It's been hard driving at night, trying to be careful with the cops cause here in CA no Parking lights big fine. I'll be checking this weekend, you said that the fuse could be blown. I'll go and get new ones for them, they probably need it anyway. thanks

Marques

LongDuck

I would only replace the fuse that you've burned out. Not worth the expense and effort to replace them all - under normal conditions, these things last a very, very long time (15-20 years without corrosion), and don't need to be changed like tires/coolant/oil, etc.

If you find a blow blade fuse, replace that one with the correct amperage, then go on about your day. Before you do this, be sure that the orange connector by your shifter has been disconnected - otherwise, you'll just blow the new fuse again.

These 'extra' connectors may have been designed for features that your car didn't have, extra driving lights, something else, you never know. They may have been in there from the wiring harness for an export to UK, or Austrailia, or something, which had features other than what yours got. They may also be used by mechanics for shorting out to troubleshoot problems - this is fairly common and all over the place in the engine bay. HTH,

MRGSL-SE

Do I have to reset the ECU by removing the negative battery when changing the fuse L D? It hasn't been very fun when dealing with electrical stuff. Another thing when my brothers friend gave the car to me the hazard lights doesn't work when I press it on (I didn't pay attention much to this until my lights went out).

I know I'm asking more questions again.... (sorry), but what do you use to clean the BCAV, the one thats on the side of the intake manifold. My car sometimes hunt for the idle, and I've been told that the BCAV could be the reason.

thanks L D

Marques

LongDuck

No need to remove the negative ground when you change fuses - I didn't know this resets the CPU, but it's not necessary.

On the hazard lights, I had the same problem, where when you click the switch on, the hazards don't come on. On my 84SE, I found that this was due to the switch being corroded on the inside, and by simply clicking the switch back and forth about 20-25 times, the hazards started working again. Must have been a bad connection within the switch, is all.

If you click it back and forth and that doesn't seem to fix it, try moving the switch to the 'halfway' position (almost on, almost off) and see if moving it slightly here will cause the hazards to come on. If so, this is probably just dirty contacts. Unfortunately, there's no way to get that combo switch (Hazards and Headlights up/down for cleaning) apart to clean it - it is a replacement from Mazda or junkyard.

Let me know how this goes. I'm still screwing with idle issues on my SE - it wasn't the injectors...

Wheels

I don't think you can reset the ECU that way, because to my knowledge it doesn't retain codes. I think that's primarily for newer/other vehicles.

-W

MRGSL-SE

I got the Hazard lights working after 10 times of trying like you said L D, I did it half way and it worked perfect.

DId you get the rebuild injectors back from Injector.com? I was looking at a post about blown apex seals, I don't know I could be wrong, but it said that it won't idle or something if the engine blew its apex seal. That's what I can think of right now.

Also did you check the Air Flow Meter, set the screws back to factory spec (AAS, Variable resistor, Trottle position screw). I remember your post in 1st gen, you said that you went in the grocery store and when you started the car it was horribly running bad. Check the coolant Temp sensor resistance or the connection to it.

Was it smoking a lot again after you installed your new injector? The injectors are 18 years old, might need a new one, just like me. RC engineering suggested GREDDY for me. I also remembered you said you've checked every vacuum line, so it probably not leaking air anywhere. I don't know how fuel pressure might affect driving condition, but check that too. Check your fusible link, main relay, your spark plugs and the wires, the ignition coil, the main relay hear if it clicks when you turn put it in on. Check the harness, if it all comes down to that, and find a spare ECU from a junk yard (its really hard to find one) switch it with yours see what happens and switch it back and see the difference. this is what I can think of that might cause idle problems. Thank you for the hazard light advice, but I haven't had time to get around to my gauge lights.


Marques

LongDuck

Nope. Injectors didn't fix it. I have since performed the following:

1) new fuel filter
2) replaced vacuum hoses to Thermowax sensor
3) removed and cleaned throttle body
4) built TPS diagnostic tool and retuned TPS position
5) swapped injectors again (to check function)
6) installed polyU rear stabilizer bar bushings (hey, I was out in the garage, and it needed it!)
7) readjusted idle and rebuilt BCAV valve
8) replaced vacuum hoses to Vacuum and Vent Solenoids
9) checked and reset timing
10) keep scratching my head when I open the hood.

This weekend, I'll be removing and cleaning the '6'-port sleeves and intake manifold (lower), then will do the ATF trick.

My feeling is that some carbon may have broken off from around the upper/lower intake manifold gasket when I first removed the upper manifold to change the injectors. In the meantime, this carbon has gotten into the Apex seals on the front rotor and gummed them up pretty good. The ATF trick can't hurt, so hopefully, I'll be another convert on Monday morning!

No luck on the headlights not going up (or coming on), yet, either. Still screwing with that issue,...

MRGSL-SE

yeah! Can't seem to find which fuse it is. Changed some of the fuse, but the cover didn't say which one for the gauge lights.

Are you going to open up your 13B engine? That's Harsh L D you got a lot of things when it comes to the combustion chamber and apex seals and all.

What's ATF?

How about flood your engine with high octane gas, then crank it a couple of times and see if it washed the carbon off the seal, then do the unflooding procedure and hopefully it got washed away(This is just my idea at last resort before Openning the engine or something like that).

TainoIndian

iTrader: (4)

i had similar problem on my 93 FD i was messin with wires and all of a sudden by gauges didnt light up and me tail lights and parking lights didnt work either...my headlights did and also my turning signals.....

it turned out to be that the dimmer switch "on fd's the dimmer has a built in fuse that relayts to what didnt work" the dimmer switch was blown..after replacment my problem was fixed....

i dont know on your car but on mine that was problem

MRGSL-SE

GSL-SE have a dimmer switch on the left panel, I'm going to check that out.

Thanks

LongDuck

Latest work this past weekend:

Total removal of upper intake tract,

removal of lower intact tract (and intake runner scrubbing - amazing what oil injection catches from the air on it's way to the intake ports!),

removal of '6' port sleeves, actuators, rotating rods, thorough cleaning of all parts - which were seriously carbon stuck and grungy. I had to spray brake cleaner into the 6 ports to get them free enough to slide out.

Installation of new lower intake manifold gasket - scraping and scraping and scraping at the old gasket material that was stuck to the housings...

Installation of new (rebuilt) Python-brand fuel injector - no change in performance, btw.

Reinstallation of upper intake tract and reset of TPS.

End result: More performance, more power at mid-range, but still have the problem with poor idle and poor off-idle acceleration... Go figure.