N3v

I rebuilt a 91 six-port which I ported with a pineapple racing port template, cleaned all the parts very thoroughly, and followed the mazdatrix rebuild dvd closely while I built it. I used an atkins rebuild kit, applied hylomar to the coolant o-rings, applied oil to the oil control ring o-rings, pretty much everything mazdatrix recommended.

So once I finally torqued all the bolts down at the back of the engine (which I didn't get the order completely right at first, I got like 1-9 right then I lost track of where I was and just alternated sides as i torqued it down. I torqued them all to 10ft/lbs then 20 then 28. I checked that all the bolts are at 28 ft/lbs like 5 times.

Then, when I went to put my flywheel nut on, I noticed that the engine wouldn't turn over freely (yes I put some oil on the bearings and E shaft when I put it together.) I pulled pretty hard with my flywheel wrench and it finally turned, and now it turns fine. My theory on this was that when I squished the slices together some hylomar seeped into the combustion chamber, and glued the corner seals in place a little?

Anyway, I've never rebuilt a rotary (or owned a rotary-powered car, or even really driven one for moe than 20 minutes :P this engine is going into my miata) and I wanted to know if anyone had some tricks for telling if the motor will be ok. I don't think a compression test right now would be very useful, right? I turned it over until you could see the apex seals through the exhaust port and pushed them with my finger to make sure the springs were working, they all seem fine.

I know that coolant o-rings are what can really screw you up in a rebuild so i was very careful to use a good amount of hylomar and make sure they were positioned correctly and that I didn't pinch one.

I just don't want to put this thing in and have it blow up! I checked with a torque wrench and it takes 21 ft/lbs on the e-shaft bolt to turn the engine (no spark plugs). I'm hoping once the oil pump primes and builds pressure that all these things that are making me nervous will go away.

what say you, o mighty internet?

V8kilr

O mighty internet says go for it.

Really though its going to be tougher to turn over because its a fresh rebuild with all new parts. Nothing is worn in yet so everything is working to slow it down. After it runs a few times it should be a tad easier but still nice a tight.

I would say crank it over with no fuel or plugs and see how it sounds just cranking with a full batt, sounds good? Put the plugs in but dont turn on the fuel or spark yet and repeat. Still sound good? Throw some flame to it and follow the break in proceedure.

While dry cranking it wouldnt hurt to put a tiny bit of oil in it just to be on the safe side in case any debri is in there so it wont catch and score your housing but hopefully blow out when started instead.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Props on the rebuild... I'd like to purchase that video and attempt it myself... Keep us updated!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The coolant o rings are fine as long as you followed the instructions exactly in terms of orienting and positioning them. Also the grooves have to be super clean. MAKE SURE you did the s5 front cover o ring correctly. See this:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

also make sure you are very careful with the thrust bearings and front stack. see this:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Download the factory engine build manual. It's good to have along with the video: http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory.../01_engine.pdf

CHECK THE ENDPLAY. You must do this. The front cover o ring and the endplay/thrust bearing are two big mistakes that people make. Also, you did check all the side seals for proper clearance with a feeler gauge? Did you make sure all the side seals move smoothly in the groove?

N3v

I have checked all of this stuff, so if that's all I have to worry about, that makes me feel better I'm also using a wideband gauge and an aftermarket oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things. thanks for the input

13bgt35r

chuk it in and crank it!!

V8kilr

I have the original VHS but no VCR so if your interested lemme know. I'd like to sell it.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

look into the exhaust ports with a flashlight. you can see how much excess hylomar made it into the combustion chamber. i'd bet it just stuck to the tips of the rotor.

spray some wd-40 into all the ports, install trailing plugs only so it'll make some compression, then crank it over by hand. you may see hylomar squirting out the leading plugs and exhaust port. listen for evenly spaced puffs.