These arent the rotors im referring to, this is one previously out of my motor that was damaged due to a bolt. however, it will work as reference to my question.
I just took apart my engine and was looking at my TurboII rotor, and I noticed that the inside of it isnt smooth. Has lots of lined grooves in it. However the bearing isnt grooved like that. So my question is, Is this rotor still perfectly fine??? Id hate to buy new ones, it only was in my truck for 20 miles, and has already been machined for 3mm seals. Thanks in advance!!

 

Ok, I think I see what your saying. The part of the rotor under the bearing has the grooves? The bearing itself has no groves. What about the part of the bearing that touches the inside of the rotor, the outside of the bearing, no grooves there? Which way do the grooves go, are they like rings going the same way as the hole or are they lines from the front of the rotor to the back? I'd like to see pics of the actual rotor in question if that would be possible.

 

Ill try and get pics tomorrow.. the rotor isnt with me right now, its in my friends garage. To try and answer your questions... I have not taken the bearing off the eccentric shaft, so the side the touches the inside of the rotor is smooth. However the inside of the rotor itself has grooves. all going around the inside. they feel like a brake rotor that has been worn. just continual ringed grooves inside the rotor. LIke i said, ill get pics of everything tomorrow and post them up. Thanks for your help!

 

It doesn't sound right that you got the rotor off the e-shaft, but the rotor bearing stayed on the shaft. Is the bearing, shaft or rotor discolored at all? Any blue, black tinting in the material would indicate overheating of the metal. This is particularly bad because the heated metal will shrink and harden. If the bearing is stuck to the shaft, it may be because the rotor wasn't properly lubed. This could be from the thermal plug behind the main pulley bolt malfunctioning. I replaced mine with the dummy plug found at www.atkinsrotary.com or www.mazdatrix.com Also could be caused by the pressure relief valve if this is in fact a oil system problem. Could be other things.

 

Yes... the engine was knocking due to oil starvation, and it over heated in the process. The bearing is obviously bad... E-Shafts are a dime a dozen and i can find one anywhere, so im not worried about that. Im just worried as to weather my ROTOR, is still good. That is the expensive, hard to replace part. Im just going to upgrade to factory mazda race bearings during the rebuild anyhow. Thanks for the help.. but my question still stands, will my rotor still be good??

 

Common.. SOMEONE out of this Gigantic rotary site, has got to be able to answer a simple question as this one. PLEASE???

 

I'm surprised diabolical1 hasn't answered it. You got pics of the rotor in question? I would email Mazdatrix.com and ask them. You have to go to the bottom and read the section about emailing them, cause if you don't send them an exact question, they won't answer it. I've sent them pics, and asked almost a dozen questions, and the longest it took them to respond was 2 business days.

 

believe it or not, this is first time i've visited this thread ... well, i would love to attempt an answer, but the plain, simple fact is that there's no way for me to know for sure without seeing it for myself.

i can offer you my guess, based on my past experiences with motors that overheat ... but please, understand that it is just what i said ... a GUESS ...

as long as it shows no signs of being burned (the blue/black streaks that project84 mentioned) then the rotor itself is probably still good, but focus on grooves that the seals sit in (corner seals, side seals) make sure they are all within spec. the seals usually expand and turn very brittle when the engine overheats like that. clean the grooves as best you can (i usually use a fine wet sandpaper). another thing i would strongly suggest is to have your rotors locked now.

get the pics and let us know how things go ...

 

I new you'd show up

You also want to check the inside diameter of the center hole to make sure it isn't warped into an egg shape. (and that its within specs)

 

Thanks for all your guys help so far.. i got the pics.. here lemme post em up so far....
my camera battery died before i could get more.. but here they are...




Hope those help some.. i made the rotor one big, kinda too big, but better then too small right?? lemme know what you think

 

I would use the rotor as long as the apex grooves, side seal grooves, corner seal grooves, and the hole in the center are within limits. I would also replace the thermal pellet with the plug I mentioned above, and dissable the the oil metering pump and run premix oil in the gas tank. In the picture of the block with the e-shaft showing, is the rotor bearing still on the ecentric lobe or is that the lobe that looks scratched?

 

Yah, the bearing is still on the eccentric lobe, but i have a feeling im going to have to replace the eccentric shaft during the rebuild. Will you direct me to the part you are referring to that you suggest i purchase?? I went to mazdatrix.com and couldnt figure out what you were talking about... if you could that would be a great help also. Whats the procedure of pre-mixing oil into the gas? ive never heard of this, kinda sounds like a huge pain in the ***.. so if you could help me with that, id appreciate it too. Thanks again!!

Also.. when i took off the oil pan, when i ran my finger along the bottom, there was prolly a good 1/8th inch of what looked like Copper or brass metal shavings. I was told it was from the main bearing. hmm sumthin else to think about

 

The main bearing is the bearing inside the stationary gear. Stock bearings, or the upgrade 3 window bearings can be found here.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm

The part that is used to replace the thermal plug can be found here.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm
Scroll down until you see this:

Atkins rotary has one too. Their site doesn't have pics, and they rarely answer email. The stock number is "Thermal". I always find it easier to call them and order stuff. There number is 253-848-7776. Their's is the same one as mazdatrix but atkins rotary is cheaper. These plugs are only for 86-95 engine e-shafts.


For using premix, add 1/2 (one half) quart for 1 complete fill up. If you are at half a tank and fill the tank, add 1/2 of that 1/2 quart. Its optional to continue using the stock OMP, but like I said, burning motor oil leaves carbon deposits. If you don't want to use it, you should remove all the injectors, lines, and the pump. If you take off the rod that goes from the throttle linkage to the OMP, vaccuum pressure will still suck in oil if the injectors are present. Premix was designed to burn cleanly, and if it says "TCW-3" then it is safe for fuel injected engines. I don't have pics, but I have a rotor housing that came off a stock engine, and you can see the difference in the wear pattern around the oil injection holes. The center of the housing close to the holes don't wear as much as the edges. This is because the apex seal doesn't spread the injected oil from side to side as much as it pushes it forward. The holes are after the intake ports, and before the spark plugs, so before the oil spreads out, it gets burned.
There is a device available that you can use to have your OMP pump premix into your engine. You have to fabricate a reservoir for it, but if you like that kind of challenge, it should be fun. I think it is something I would do, but later on down the road. Here is the link for that.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

Hope this has been helpful

 

is that really a T2 motor, or are you using T2 rotors in an older engine?

the details of the pics are a bit sketchy to my eyes, but those look like pre-86 housings (hell, the center intermediate looks like it's either 12A or '74-'78 13B) ... exactly what setup were you running?

 

hehehe honestly.. im not exactly sure. Its TII housings and rotors. First Gen center housing, and i think they are front and and housings from a 89 glse.. maybe im wrong. Id really have to go through and look through my sheets.. its been over a year. They are all from 13b's tho.. no 12a. This motor was built to be supercharged, it is carb'ed and in a 86 B2000 p/u. 91 tranny, coupled to a ford 9" rear, with if i remember correctly 4:44 gears. Like i said, id really have to go back and look through all my reciepts and such to really get all the right details.


And thanks Project 84 for your help.. im going to finish tearin it apart this week, i ran out of time this weekend, have other car projects i was muuch to involved in. Ill keep you posted. Thanks again

 

Hey B-seriesR remember me I was the kid that wanted to buy your truck awhile back, I belive if i rember correctly, It had GSL-SE endhousings with 9:1 TII rotors or something like that, Glad to see that you were able to keep the truck and that you can rebuild it, Cause when I was looking at it you really didnt want to get rid of it but didnt have a choice.