Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

So I was told from a reputable person that since I have removed my trailing, I can advance my leading more than usual. Is this true? I can semi-see where he is coming from, since I will not have to worry about the trailing firing too late or firing into the next combustion chamber.

My mods are 1980 E Dizzy, MSD 6A and 2nd gen Leading coil firing NGK plugs.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Bump

680RWHP12A

try advancing the timing in 4 degree increments and see how the car responds. it should defiantly pick up

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking to do something like that but in 2 degree. If I can get away with 4 that would be great. Guess I should book in some dyno time.

Should I start at paul yaws suggestion?

Now for the fun stuff. Most stock or mildly ported 12A's will make best power with total timing of 24 degrees before top dead center leading, and 16 degrees before top dead center trailing. 13B's (GSL-SE.) Will normally run best at 26 leading, and 16 trailing. The timing for best power will vary slightly from one engine to another, but a leading/trailing split of 8 degrees works best in almost all 12A applications, and 10 degrees for a 13B. Since it is the total advance that we are concerned with, this creates a problem because your stock pulley is marked at top dead center, and twenty degrees after top dead center which is the factory recommended setting at idle.

Basically I rev to 4000 and set my leading to 24*, then go from there?

680RWHP12A

i think you should try advancing the timing in 4 degree increments and see how the car responds. drive it , if it keeps picking up power keep advancing the timing

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

this is a very interesting thread, and i wish i had something to contribute, but sadly i don't. i, too, thought you should advance at 2 degree increments, but i guess i'll try 4 degrees from now on.