rxhaven7

There is something up with my 88 n/a. I started it up one morning and it sounded like the intake was bogged up and it wouldnt rev up past 2000 rpm and while idleing it would rev up to about 2000 and drop down then bounce back up to 2000 and wouldnt stop. Its in a shop now and they are trying things out. so if anyone knows about or has had this problem please, i really want my car back

black_sunshine

If it's in the shop, why are you asking for help? At any rate, here's the usual rundown of stuff to check:

It sounds a lot like an improperly adjusted TPS (throttle position sensor; do a search for tps adjustment), but you said it would not rev past 2k... hmm. Usually, when it's bobbing for an idle, it means it's getting not enough fuel for the air intake (read: vacuum leak). The points of concern are:

AFM (Air Flow Meter); it's attached to the air box.

BACV (Bypass Air Control Valve): on the driver's side of the intake manifold. This is most likely the culprit.

AWS (Accelerated Warmup Solenoid): just underneath the BACV. These leak/get sticky sometimes.

Boost Sensor: Passenger-side strut tower. Make sure the vacuum line is connected and doesn't leak. If it does, don't forget to get the restrictor pellet out of the old one and install it into the new one (it's on the end that goes to the lower intake manifold).

Intake Air Duct: The big black tube. Make sure the clamps are nice and tight.

Vacuum lines: The ones on my 88 were all hard and some were cracked. The brake booster line (passenger side lower intake manifold near the firewall) cracked and made a nasty leak that was hard to find. You'll have to bend the manifold's nipple unless you want to buy a Maza hose. Basically, I just removed the vacuum rack and capped all the left-over vacuum sources, but if you want to keep it all, just buy a bunch of silicone hose (around 5 feet) and re-do everything. Be careful when removing the hoses from the plastic parts; they WILL break if anything but extreme care is not taken. Also check the solenoids for leaks/malfunctions. The easy way to check for a leak is to get some starting fluid and spray it on all the hoses. When you hear the idle increase, that hose has a leak on it. I don't usually endorse this method, as it can cause a helluva engine fire.

Aside from that stuff, the Intake Air Temperature sensor (driver's side inake manifold just under the BACV) and the Water Thermo Sensor (just under the alternator on the water pump housing) should also be checked.

rxhaven7

Thank you thats all i needed, i know its in the shop but they cant figure anything out so i was hoping someone could give some leads to fix the problem which you did and i thank you again.