NeilTII

I have access to a tester and need to know how to test it. I was driving my (forced induction) carbed TII and I took a corner and got on it a little and my car just fell on its face. I down shifted because it sounded as if it was going to die. I had no power in any gear. I feathered it home= 1 mile. The whole way my car was running but it would take forever in each gear to get the rpm's up. My engine is street ported so I am used to it loping.....now it runs quiet and smooth with no power at idle. It sounds like a damn VW bug or lawn tractor when I drive it. Any quick ideas besides my (Blown Apex Theory)?

Project84

Sorry to hear that man. To check the compression, take the leading spark plug out, (the lower one. start with the front rotor housing) and screw in the compression tester. You need to disable the fuel injection so the injectors don't spray fuel. Should be a 40 amp relay (green I think) under the hood in the fuse box labeled Eng Inj. Double check the Haynes manual or factory service manual) If not, gas will pour out when you remove the tool and the rear rotor spark plug. You also need to disable the spark plugs so the plug or the wire that is hanging free isn't arcing off the chassis or something.
Now, if you have a compression gauge for a piston engine, it will have a check valve that will allow the guage to pressurize, but it won't realize the air. This lets the gauge hold a reading. You need to open this valve, or remove it completely. A rotor has 3 sides and you want to check the compression on all 3 sides so the gauge needs to go up and down 3 times.
Now, with that done, you will need to watch the gauge while someone cranks the engine. Watch the needle. Good compression is up around 120 psi I think. Thats on all three sides of the rotor, so it should bounce to 120 3 times. If it goes to fast, record it with a home video camera and then watch it in slow motion. Repeat the same thing for the leading plug on the rear rotor.

NeilTII

well I did it and the front rotor has nothing....no jumps at all. I think I found the basterd. I am going to do the work myself. What do I need besides apex seals? Like gaskets or anything. And what precautions do I need to take? I am not taking it to someone because if it does this again I will know what to do. I have seen rotary shops rebuild an engine in a matter of hours so I believe that I should get it done in a day or two.

NeilTII

One more ? Can I just buy new apex seals or do I need to buy the $600 rebuild kit?

Project84

Go to www.atkinsrotary.com They have a kit for about $150 that will have all the water seals and gaskets. They also have a how to video for how to do the engine. If you have a Haynes manual (any hardware store will have it or can order it) that will walk you through it too. Depending on what housings are bad and what seals are bad, you may need to replace them. The compression is formed by the apex seals and side seals against the rotor housings and side plates. Check the rear rotor to make sure you were checking the compression right, then give atkins a call. Rotaries are simple to do and they will tell you what you need in a little more detail. Nothing else really to look out for, just take your time and do it. The more you do, the faster it gets, but the time table you are shooting for is very reasonable for a first timer. Good luck.