How To-Cleaning 5th/6th port sleeves
02-05-02, 02:48 AM
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How To-Cleaning 5th/6th port sleeves
Ok, here we will cover the removal of the upper and lower manifold to clean the 5th and 6th port sleeves and holding area in the engine.
Tools: 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm wrench, 14mm wrench, philips screw driver, Carb cleaner, a pair of wire cutters, and some 4mm and 6mm vacuum hose, pliers.
1. Remove the air tube that is going to the elbow on the throttle body, it takes a philips screw driver.
2. Remove the black plastic elbow that resides on the throttle body, it is held on by 2 12mm nuts on oblique corners.
3. Unplug the throttle position sensor plug, it is the small square black thing on the front of the throttle body.
4. Remove the oil metering pump rod from the front of the throttle body, it is held in by a small bobby pin, just get your pliers and pull it out, make sure you keep this for putting it back together.
5. Disconnect your throttle cables from the rear of the throttle body, there will be 2 if you have cruise control.
6. (you can do this if you want, but its not required) Remove the throttle body, it is held on by 4, 12mm nuts, one on each corner of the throttle body.
7. (only some 86-88's have this, if yours doesnt skip this step) There is a small piece on the passenger side of the intake manifold that is held on by a 10mm nut and a 10mm bolt, it runs to the cold start assist bottle on the passenger side, the bottle is located behind the charcoal filter, that is the black round thing on the passenger side fender.
8. Remove the upper fuel rail now that it is accessible, it is held on by 2 12mm bolts, loosen one then the other and proceed to take them out, be careful if you want to remove the injectors from the rail, some fuel rails fit tight and will shred the upper o-rings and leak fuel, but some rails are not. (you can remove the fuel hose at both ends of the fuel rail to make removing it easier, but i dont do this)
9. There are 4 nuts at the base of the upper intake, remove these 4 nuts, after you remove those go up just a little and in the middle of the intake there will be a 12mm bolt that needs to be removed also.
10. Right behind the alternator is an intake manifold mount, the bolt there is also 12mm, remove that.
11. Driver side of the car, there are 3 more intake manifold mount bolts, 2 are near the firewall, and 1 is toward the front of the car.
12. Remove the Bypass Air Control valve, it is held on by 2 10mm nuts.
13. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable in place.
14. Go down a little and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on the round thing (sorry dont know its name)
15. Move to the side a little and unplug the intake air sensor.
16. Remove all the vacuum hoses, there are 3 on the passenger side of the intake, 2 on the firewall side of the dynamic chamber, 3 on the fan side of the dynamic chamber, 1 on the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator), 1 on the passenger side of the intake.
17. After everything is taken off of the manifold, pull it up from the dynamic chamber, (the dynamic chamber is the part of the manifold that you see right behind the throttle body, it says 13B Mazda on it)
18. Now that the upper piece of the intake manifold is removed you can see your primary injectors, your EGR valve, and other various stuff
19. Now comes the weird part, there is a vacuum "spider" going to the 4 oil injectors, 2 of the oil injectors are placed on the lower intake manifold piece, and 2 are placed on the engine block itself. If your vacuum hoses are old and brittle this is where your wire cutters come in handy, ive broken 5 of those damn spider vacuum splitters, if the hoses are brittle cut them about 1" away from the spider, do this for all 4 hoses and take off the small piece of hose that was left on it, and remove the hoses from the oil injectors on the manifold and engine and replace them when you put it back together.
20. In the cars ive had, 2 of them took a 13mm wrench to unscrew the oil injectors from the manifold, and 2 of them took 14mm wrench, so i cant really say what size to use there, but after you have removed the vacuum hoses take the oil injectors out.
21. Remove the vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold, ive broken those too forgetting they were there.
22. Unplug both of the wires from your Air Control Valve, there is a black plug and a white plug, the plugs are located where you unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor.
23. The lower intake manifold is held on by 6 12mm nuts, there are 2 on the fire wall side, 2 on the front end side, and 2 in the middle of the manifold on the bottom side, now pull your lower manifold piece off.
24. Now you can see the side of your engine, the 5th and 6th port sleeves are in the upper round intake holes, if they are stuck you will need to use your pliers to pull them out, grab them by the little bar that is in the middle of them and twist and pull out. (make a mental note of the position of the sleeves so you will put them back in correctly, they should be in this direction (firewall side -----> / \<----- front end side)
25. Take your favorite brand of carb cleaner and spray the heck out of the sleeves, some steel wool or fine sanding paper comes in handy here, because some of this stuff is really gunked on there.
26. After the sleeves are cleaned put them back into their designated spots, take your pliers and turn them from side to side, if they are still kinda hard to turn, get your carb cleaner and shoot a little into the ports, then put your sleeves back in and turn them again.
27. After you get them cleaned and turning as freely as you feel they need be, put everything back together the way it was removed, make sure all vacuum hoses are hooked up, if you cut the hoses on the spider for the oil injectors make sure to replace the vacuum hoses for them.
Side note: IF you broke your vacuum "spider" for your oil injectors, mazdatrix sells them, but if you need to drive the car until you can order one go to your local auto parts store, get a T-off that has 5 outlets, it will have 1 outlet at each end, and 3 on the bottom, you will also need a step up adaptor for this, it will have a small side and a bigger side (4mm to 6mm), i will get some pictures of what i am talking about soon and post them so you can see for yourselved if you accidentally break a spider.
Tools: 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm wrench, 14mm wrench, philips screw driver, Carb cleaner, a pair of wire cutters, and some 4mm and 6mm vacuum hose, pliers.
1. Remove the air tube that is going to the elbow on the throttle body, it takes a philips screw driver.
2. Remove the black plastic elbow that resides on the throttle body, it is held on by 2 12mm nuts on oblique corners.
3. Unplug the throttle position sensor plug, it is the small square black thing on the front of the throttle body.
4. Remove the oil metering pump rod from the front of the throttle body, it is held in by a small bobby pin, just get your pliers and pull it out, make sure you keep this for putting it back together.
5. Disconnect your throttle cables from the rear of the throttle body, there will be 2 if you have cruise control.
6. (you can do this if you want, but its not required) Remove the throttle body, it is held on by 4, 12mm nuts, one on each corner of the throttle body.
7. (only some 86-88's have this, if yours doesnt skip this step) There is a small piece on the passenger side of the intake manifold that is held on by a 10mm nut and a 10mm bolt, it runs to the cold start assist bottle on the passenger side, the bottle is located behind the charcoal filter, that is the black round thing on the passenger side fender.
8. Remove the upper fuel rail now that it is accessible, it is held on by 2 12mm bolts, loosen one then the other and proceed to take them out, be careful if you want to remove the injectors from the rail, some fuel rails fit tight and will shred the upper o-rings and leak fuel, but some rails are not. (you can remove the fuel hose at both ends of the fuel rail to make removing it easier, but i dont do this)
9. There are 4 nuts at the base of the upper intake, remove these 4 nuts, after you remove those go up just a little and in the middle of the intake there will be a 12mm bolt that needs to be removed also.
10. Right behind the alternator is an intake manifold mount, the bolt there is also 12mm, remove that.
11. Driver side of the car, there are 3 more intake manifold mount bolts, 2 are near the firewall, and 1 is toward the front of the car.
12. Remove the Bypass Air Control valve, it is held on by 2 10mm nuts.
13. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable in place.
14. Go down a little and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on the round thing (sorry dont know its name)
15. Move to the side a little and unplug the intake air sensor.
16. Remove all the vacuum hoses, there are 3 on the passenger side of the intake, 2 on the firewall side of the dynamic chamber, 3 on the fan side of the dynamic chamber, 1 on the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator), 1 on the passenger side of the intake.
17. After everything is taken off of the manifold, pull it up from the dynamic chamber, (the dynamic chamber is the part of the manifold that you see right behind the throttle body, it says 13B Mazda on it)
18. Now that the upper piece of the intake manifold is removed you can see your primary injectors, your EGR valve, and other various stuff
19. Now comes the weird part, there is a vacuum "spider" going to the 4 oil injectors, 2 of the oil injectors are placed on the lower intake manifold piece, and 2 are placed on the engine block itself. If your vacuum hoses are old and brittle this is where your wire cutters come in handy, ive broken 5 of those damn spider vacuum splitters, if the hoses are brittle cut them about 1" away from the spider, do this for all 4 hoses and take off the small piece of hose that was left on it, and remove the hoses from the oil injectors on the manifold and engine and replace them when you put it back together.
20. In the cars ive had, 2 of them took a 13mm wrench to unscrew the oil injectors from the manifold, and 2 of them took 14mm wrench, so i cant really say what size to use there, but after you have removed the vacuum hoses take the oil injectors out.
21. Remove the vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold, ive broken those too forgetting they were there.
22. Unplug both of the wires from your Air Control Valve, there is a black plug and a white plug, the plugs are located where you unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor.
23. The lower intake manifold is held on by 6 12mm nuts, there are 2 on the fire wall side, 2 on the front end side, and 2 in the middle of the manifold on the bottom side, now pull your lower manifold piece off.
24. Now you can see the side of your engine, the 5th and 6th port sleeves are in the upper round intake holes, if they are stuck you will need to use your pliers to pull them out, grab them by the little bar that is in the middle of them and twist and pull out. (make a mental note of the position of the sleeves so you will put them back in correctly, they should be in this direction (firewall side -----> / \<----- front end side)
25. Take your favorite brand of carb cleaner and spray the heck out of the sleeves, some steel wool or fine sanding paper comes in handy here, because some of this stuff is really gunked on there.
26. After the sleeves are cleaned put them back into their designated spots, take your pliers and turn them from side to side, if they are still kinda hard to turn, get your carb cleaner and shoot a little into the ports, then put your sleeves back in and turn them again.
27. After you get them cleaned and turning as freely as you feel they need be, put everything back together the way it was removed, make sure all vacuum hoses are hooked up, if you cut the hoses on the spider for the oil injectors make sure to replace the vacuum hoses for them.
Side note: IF you broke your vacuum "spider" for your oil injectors, mazdatrix sells them, but if you need to drive the car until you can order one go to your local auto parts store, get a T-off that has 5 outlets, it will have 1 outlet at each end, and 3 on the bottom, you will also need a step up adaptor for this, it will have a small side and a bigger side (4mm to 6mm), i will get some pictures of what i am talking about soon and post them so you can see for yourselved if you accidentally break a spider.
