lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

The boiling temperature of water is 100C. With a 50/50 water/coolant mixture it is higher, by how much I am not sure. I have heard that 110C is to hot for the rotary engine, because that is boiling. I am running evans coolant though, which is a non-water pure coolant, and does not require pressurization to operate effectiveley. The boiling temp for evans coolant is 370F or 187C . My PFC's water temp reading runs to about 108-112 under normal interstate driving. I have a fmic so my radiator isn't getting the necessary air flow. So is it safe to run my car to 110C or beyond because I am using evans coolant, or is it still unsafe for the motor and seals?

Thanks

RETed

http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/wtemp.htm


-Ted

Rotortuner

Ya that turns out to be 230 F. My opinion is that thats too warm, I think optimum is lower like 200 with 220 starting to be uncomfortable. For daily driving i think they should stay under 210 or so. This is what i think, but i am not realy for sure. Does any one know the exact temperature that is what we should not exceed? I know that for a piston motor 220 is where most electric fans turn on and they cool down from there.

CJG

Jonesboro

108 - 112 C under normal Interstate cruising is simply too high. Interstate cruising should produce your lowest temperatures, yet you are in the overheating range. How high does your temp get when you hit it hard?

In any case, at those temps you are headed for trouble, if it hasn't already occurred. If I was you, I would be doing some serious troubleshooting/modifications to get the temperature lower.

rxthis34

i seem to be haveing the same problem,mostley running the a/c ,but thats when your supposed to run it,right? any way , if someone could help ,please!



it

Jonesboro

There are five popular cooling system mods for the 3RD Gen for the combined purposes of improving reliability and increasing cooling capacity. Remember, these cars are now about 10 years old. If your car has never had any cooling system work then now is a good time to do it all:

1. Replace the plastic AST with an aluminum one.

2. Replace the stock radiator with a larger capacity one. Fluidyne (1 1/2 inch thick) and Koyo (2 inch thick) make all aluminum aftermarket radiators for the 3RD Gen. Go to this link:
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi...6cdc+1011592985

3. Modify the radiator fans with a switch that allows you to turn on the fans at any time. Go to this link:
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/fanswitch/fanswitch.html

4. Change the thermoswitch that turns on the radiator fans to a Miata thermoswitch that will turn on the fans at a lower temperature. The Miata thermoswitch is available from aftermarket parts places. You also have to change the existing connector. Get the connector from a 90's something Ford Probe (Mazda engine) at your Pull-It-Yourself wrecking yard.

Alternatively, if you have the PFC, then buy the Datalogit which allows you electronically change the temperature at which the fans come on.

5. Recognize that the stock temperature gauge is actually an idiot light and either "linearize" the stock gauge or install an aftermarket temp gauge in order to get accurate temperature readings. Go to these links:
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/tempgauge.html
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7...nstructions.pdf

Again, the PFC with commander can serve as a temperature gauge.

Finally: If you break into the cooling system to make any changes then also replace the thermostat plus upper and lower radiator hoses. Refill with only distilled water and antifreeze at a 75:25 water to antifreeze ratio.