Help a NEWBIE OUT!
#1
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Help a NEWBIE OUT!
Just recently purchased a 1986 n/a RX7, fell in love with it right away, have only owned it for 2 days now.....anywayz......having severe engine problems.....starts right up but idles extremely rough ususally around 2K or a lil higher, if i tap the gas it will idle down and almost die out. Engine has absolutely no power when driving it....havnt been able to go over 40mph yet. I have already checked the following: 1)fuel filter(replaced yesterday and made no difference) 2)Gutted all of the cats( all of them were pretty clogged, to no prevail though still have no power....gained a lil bit but not enough) 3) Checked wires and spark(brand new 7mm wires and it gets excellent spark 4) checked air filter(brand new) ...........what the hell is wrong with my car>????
Also...when i got the car the first thing i noticed when inspecting the exhaust.....there was a pipe that was supposed to be hooked up to the cat that runs up to the engine, it has some filter thing on the end where it hooks to the engine and there is also a small vacuum hose that goes onto the engine from that too......well...it was just kinda hangin under the car b/c it had broken off the cat.....is this a problem???
Any help would be greatly appreciated......thanxz
Also...when i got the car the first thing i noticed when inspecting the exhaust.....there was a pipe that was supposed to be hooked up to the cat that runs up to the engine, it has some filter thing on the end where it hooks to the engine and there is also a small vacuum hose that goes onto the engine from that too......well...it was just kinda hangin under the car b/c it had broken off the cat.....is this a problem???
Any help would be greatly appreciated......thanxz
#2
I think you should hook it up to a diagnostic comp, that would be the fastest way. Throwing parts at a problem cost alot of $ ! ! !
I think the mass air flow, is a good start?
I think the mass air flow, is a good start?
#3
Before you go any farther, check compression. Rough running, no idle below 2k or so, and no power are often indicators of a blown rotor apex seal.
You don't even need a compression tester. Pull the leading (lower) plugs, pull the engine computer fuse (so it doesn't run the fuel injectors or ignition), and either have a friend crank the engine while you feel for pressure out the plug holes, or turn it over from the power steering pulley with a socket. You should feel/hear a chuff of air every half turn (alternating between front & rear rotor). If you don't, you've probably got a blown rotor.
Or, just remove one plug, turn it over by hand or with the engine computer fuse removed, and you should get a chuff every full turn of the eccentric shaft (crankshaft). If you get "Chuff ... ..." or no chuffs at all, you have a blown apex seal.
Blown apex seal = rebuild.
-=Russ=-
You don't even need a compression tester. Pull the leading (lower) plugs, pull the engine computer fuse (so it doesn't run the fuel injectors or ignition), and either have a friend crank the engine while you feel for pressure out the plug holes, or turn it over from the power steering pulley with a socket. You should feel/hear a chuff of air every half turn (alternating between front & rear rotor). If you don't, you've probably got a blown rotor.
Or, just remove one plug, turn it over by hand or with the engine computer fuse removed, and you should get a chuff every full turn of the eccentric shaft (crankshaft). If you get "Chuff ... ..." or no chuffs at all, you have a blown apex seal.
Blown apex seal = rebuild.
-=Russ=-
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thanxz...i will give that a try.......if i do happen to have a blown rotor or apex seal.....should i rebuild this engine, it only has 78,000 miles on it and i think it should still be in good shape or should i get a new rebuilt motor??
thanxz for the help
thanxz for the help
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