Engine Stand Head How To
#1
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Engine Stand Head How To
I am looking for a how to on how to build a engine stand for a rotory. The Mazdatrix site said that they use to give a how to on it but now they sell them. Anyone know any other sites?
#4
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I have the stand from Mazdatrix, and I'd say if you have the ability to get some angle iron and weld it up, you probably can make it for $20.
Since I don't, and my engine stand was only $35, I bought theirs. I'll see if I can draw up a diagram for making it.
Since I don't, and my engine stand was only $35, I bought theirs. I'll see if I can draw up a diagram for making it.
#5
Old [Sch|F]ool
I can make one for NOTHING!
It's sooooo simple... at least it was for my 12A's, haven't tried a later motor but it should be the same.
First, take your generic boinger-motor engine stand ($50 at local auto parts store) and REMOVE all four of the arms. This should leave you with a flat plate with four slots in it, two in line with each other and two angled.
Now go to your engine. See all the bolt holes in a row on the spark plug side of the front housing? Bolt those in to the two slots in the stand head. It's much easier to bolt it on with the engine on the ground, then pick it up and put the head in the stand. The stand head goes on so that the head's pivot is forward of the engine. This means that you pretty much can only work on the engine flywheel-end up, but that's okay because that's really the only position you need it to be in.
Of course, you should already have the manifolds and everything (including the flywheel) off before you mount it up, because it makes it so much easier to just pick it up and set it in the stand. OTOH I did assemble the whole engine on the stand, including manifold and headers and flywheel, before I picked it up with the hoist, threw the trans on, and put it in the car.
It's sooooo simple... at least it was for my 12A's, haven't tried a later motor but it should be the same.
First, take your generic boinger-motor engine stand ($50 at local auto parts store) and REMOVE all four of the arms. This should leave you with a flat plate with four slots in it, two in line with each other and two angled.
Now go to your engine. See all the bolt holes in a row on the spark plug side of the front housing? Bolt those in to the two slots in the stand head. It's much easier to bolt it on with the engine on the ground, then pick it up and put the head in the stand. The stand head goes on so that the head's pivot is forward of the engine. This means that you pretty much can only work on the engine flywheel-end up, but that's okay because that's really the only position you need it to be in.
Of course, you should already have the manifolds and everything (including the flywheel) off before you mount it up, because it makes it so much easier to just pick it up and set it in the stand. OTOH I did assemble the whole engine on the stand, including manifold and headers and flywheel, before I picked it up with the hoist, threw the trans on, and put it in the car.
#7
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You may have to remove the studs in the front iron housing to do it this way, and I had to notch my stand about 3mm with a grinder. Works great, and I use it all the time. Don't buy anything.
Don.
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