Chillichinchilla

Satch, you are a GOD, anyway, I believe it's called throttle stop screw, well appears like my friends fucked with my TB While engine was apart, and I know which one did. SOOO I loosened it, and it dropped the idle to about 1100, and then I "ALMOST" bottomed out the idle speed screw, and she is idling now at 700-750. BUT it surges between 700-750. Its a little inconsistent, but mostly rhythmic. I will take off the TB and adjust all screws on it, any other input you have on this? always welcome, I would love a stable 750 idle! and again, thank you!

Sidenote, I tried to adjust the idle stop screw with the initial set coupler grounded and not grounded, it didn't make a difference.

satch

iTrader: (1)

On an NA the idle adjust screw (used for fine tuning) would be located on top of the engine (dynamic chamber)and this is adjusted after the coupler is jumpered, but on a turbo it's located as part of the BAC. Also, the TPS should be adjusted only after the engine is as hot as it can possibly get which takes a 20 minute drive or a real long time just sitting there idling.

Chillichinchilla

Ok, so I have adjusted everything on the throttle body/ tps with the coupler grounded ofc and when I was cranking the car, I had to tap the gas a little to start it, stalled once when it was cold and flooded the engine, so I deflooded it, and backed out the throttle stop screw, then when it was warm and idling at about 1500, I loosened the throttle stop screw (With coupler grounded) and got idle down to about 800, and the car surges almost rhythmically 800-950.

So to recap and make it simple:
-Adjusting idle speed screw (Bottoming it out closed) smoothens out the idle from surging 1200-1500~ but then it surges at about 1200.
-Adjusting throttle stop brings idle down, but keeps the small amount of surging.
-Holding the BAC air supply hose does nothing at all.

I think those are the most important atm?
Btw, everything was done according to FSM/advice from other people word for word.