MrFC3S

well, didnt get an awnser in the 2nd gen section, so ill try here... The engine is a 13B from an 87 FC GXL, Stock...

Well, I posted about this a few months ago, but now I've verified that my 87 GXL is running at about-below 15PSi at idle... with a mechanical gauge. The adaptor was leaking alittle bit but im going to check agian, though I doubt itll make a difference... (btw, does anyone know the thread pitches on the Racing Beat Oil Pressure/Temp adaptor? Trying to find an adaptor plug for the 3/8 hole)

The way it works is is this... at startup, pressure shoots up like it should, durring Idle, it stays around 30, then as soon it starts to idle normaly, it creaps down to 15psi or right above 0 on the stocker. Its sounding like the imfamous Front Cover O-ring of Death, but i wanted a second. The Oil Pan bolts are covered in oil but there are no aparent leaks (none very visable) not to mention my car also likes to ride alittle warm when this happens too.(half-way)

Asuming that its ether the Front E-shaft Thermopelet, the Oil Pan Gasket, Or the Front Cover O-ring of Death, I'd be stupid not to go ahead and replace them all at the same time and say the heck with it right? Well, thinking about it, ive been driveing the thing like this since the day I bought it. And its got 175,000 on the clock. Should I just goahead and pull the engine for a rebuild? or try replacing that other crap and see where it gets me?

Any information or ideas welcome.
Thanks.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Oil pressure varies with temp and viscoscity. What weight oil are you running and what is your oil pressure at 3k rpms? If you are running 10W30 and your oil pressure goes to 50-60 psi at 3k, I wouldn't worry about it.

MrFC3S

Running 20W-50

MrFC3S

ok, im leaning towards pulling the front cover... The only thing im worried about is the Eccentric Shaft Bearrings and damaging it... What do I have to do to get the Shaft Bolt off and keep from damaging the bearings or anything else? and also are there any other perils of doing it with the engine in the car?
Thanks
Tim

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

To keep the torrington bearings in place, the clutch pedal must be pushed the entire time the front cover is off. A 2X4 wedged between the seat and clutch pedal will suffice. You might wish to check the front oil pressure relief valve and the rear oil pressure regulator while you have the engine open. Specing the oil pump and chain wouldn't hurt either.

If you are going through all that, pulling the engine may be simpler in the long run.

MrFC3S

probably... but trying to do quick and effective half-assed way.
so if im cracking it open, might as well replace the shaft thermostat, Pan Gasket and the oring... and ill check that other stuff too...
how hard is it to check the relief valve and pressure regulator? are there any parts other than the Oring, some RTV, Front cover gasket and the water pump gasket that im forgetting? also a good time for an aftermarket Temp gauge

and also the biggy, how do i break the front Eshaft bolt? Ive heard some say that you could bump the starter with a wrench on it, but i thought you didnt want the eshaft to move at all?
btw thanks Trochoid

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The relief valve is screwed into the bottom of the front cover. Take it apart, clean it and check for any galling on the piston or sleeve. The pressure regulator screws into the rear iron, the newer ones cannot be taken apart.

I've found that the e-shaft bolt is usually harder to break loose than the flywheel nut due to the permanent threadlock Mazda uses. Heating the bolt will usually soften the threadlock enough to break it loose. Locking the engine to keep it from turning is another problem. Put the tranny in reverse, set the handbrake and crack the bolt loose about 1 turn. Then you can push the clutch in and proceed from there.

You can leave the waterpump bolted to the pump housing and remove as a unit. Buy both gaskets just in case.

Fwiw, half-assed is not the best way to do this job. It can be done without removing the engine, but if you fubar the torringtons, it will need to come out to replace them and reset endplay.

MrFC3S

okdo, Ive goten under the FC, checked everything out. I Still cant source down the leak for sure, but its almost aparent that my Oil Pan Gasket is fubar. All of the oil pan bolts and the motor mount is covered in oil, and not much upper places to leak other than the rear oilcooler banjo bolt(which im going to replace the seals in there just to be safe, the return line was bone dry) and the MOP, which its aparent that the Oring around it has gone... iirc this wouldnt cause a drop in pressure, but I need to fix it anyway

other than that theres oil covering the pan. Im still kinda new to this but, could the oil pan gasket still be a majority of my problem? IE does it have to be squirting everwhere and leaking severly to be considered a potential problem? It doesnt seem to be leaking alot, I never noticed a drop in the amount of oil while I was driving it.

Im sorry if no one thinks my questions are stupid or hard to understand. this is my first time dealing with a problem like this and im kinda still lost and unsure...

813KR$

a leaky oil pan gasket will not drop oil pressure. When assembling the front cover dont use the front cover gasket only sealent, that will tighten the front cover on the o ring and allow for higher oil pressure. Basically makes sure no oil squeezes by the o ring. If you are wanting higher oil pressure you can smack the **** out of the tip of the rear oil pressure reg and flaten it down some and the flater you make it the higher your oil pressure goes. Just dont get too carried away. doing this is the same as shimming the older ones.