trickster

Nevermind I found the answer in one of your previous posts

trickster

I checked the B/W wire on the main relay and :

Battery hooked up: 0V
Key to ON: 12V
Key to OFF: 12V
Pull EGI COMP fuse: 0V

Does this mean I need a replacement main relay?

Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two B/W wires at the main relay. You need to make sure you are checking the proper B/W wire. Did you check the one on the 2 wire plug or the 4 wire plug?

trickster

I checked the one with the two wires

satch

iTrader: (1)

What you want to do is pull the 2 wire plug from the relay. You then want to check for voltage on the B/W wire in the two wire plug w/key to off then key to on then back to key to off and see what you get. It should only have voltage w/key to on. If it has voltage at any time w/key to off then the relay is not at fault.

trickster

So check voltage in the connector from the harness not voltage on the connector to the relay

satch

iTrader: (1)

Just remove the 2 wire plug from the relay and check for voltage on the B/W wire in that 2 wire plug as stated above.

trickster

When the two wire plug is disconnected from the relay, and the key is turned from ON to OFF, the two wire connector on both sides (connector on the relay, and connector on the body harness) both are 0 V. Also, the wipers and climate control are switched off. So is the main relay the cause of my issue?

trickster

Just to add to that last post..

I turned my idle up to get the car to 3000 by accident, I was just trying to raise it so that the car would stay on. I was going to raise it just to 1500. Anyways I could not get it to shut off.

I turned off the key
Pulled the EGI comp fuse
Pulled the battery negative terminal
Pulled the L1 spark wire
Got electrocuted a few times trying to pull L2
Finally shut off when I pulled EGI Inj and Head fuse at the same time.

****** terrifying

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're going to run into various issues by having a car idle at 1500 which is twice the normal speed.

You can pull the 4 wire plug from the relay and jumper the Black/Green wire to the Black/Yellow wire and the White/Blue wire to the Black/White wire and this will bypass the relay. The thing is when not using the car the jumpered wires could drain the battery so you won't want to leave them jumpered for any length of time.



Pulling the Head fuse must have been a coincidence since it only feeds the headlight switch and headlight relay and nothing else as it has no bearing on the engine running unless your car is royally effed.

If most things return to normal w/the relay bypassed then you can conclude it needs to be replaced.

trickster

Yes it definitely was a coincidence I just pulled them both in a panic.

I'm setting the idle to 1500 because that's what it says on the guide on rotary resurrection for breaking in rebuilt engines. I've checked a number or things including timing and vacuum leaks and have just decided I need to just raise my idle up as it says.

I'll try that relay jumpering soon. I usually pull the battery when I'm not trying to start it anyways so this is fine for now but thanks for pointing out the drain regardless. Hopefully it's the relay and I can just order a new one.

Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

If in need of a relay you could also purchase a used one from the for sale section.

trickster

Thanks I was hoping I could find one used.

Just to be sure, you're saying to leave the two wire connectors on the relay plugged in, and to jump the pins on the 4 pin connector on the body harness side right?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It won't matter whether you left it plugged in or not as you could just take the item from the car just as long as you jumper the 4 wire plug properly.

trickster

I removed the main relay completely and jumpers the four pin connector as you said and immediately upon connecting the battery the climate control, warning lights and turn signals were all operational with key to OFF. Turning key to ON had no effect and turning it back off still had no effect, they remained on as long as the battery was Hooked up

satch

iTrader: (1)

Go to the ignition switch and find the plug with two wires from the front harness that are Blue/Red and Blue. The B/R wire powers the items you mentioned which turned on when the battery was connected. Check the B/R wire for power when these items are on but the key is off. This wire should never have power w/the key to off. If it has power w/key to off then unplug these two wires from the ignition switch and see if that kills the turn signals etc. If it does then that points to a faulty ignition switch. If the items are still working w/the plug disconnected then that points to the items working because they are mistakenly backfed voltage when they obviously should not.

trickster

I couldnt find a connector with blue/red and blue wires. Was that for sure the color? I found a black/red and blue wire connector and tested it instead. When the key was turned to ON it got power but when the key turned to OFF it lost power. Its possible that I couldn't see the connector if it is positioned close to the switch because I could see this one once I laid in the footwell

satch

iTrader: (1)

I meant to say Black/Red but typed Blue/Red by accident. And I should have suggested you test a two wire plug connected to the ignition switch that housed the B/W wire and a Black wire for the B/W wire powers the meter fuse which then powers the turn signals and idiot lights. The B/W wire should have power w/key to on. And if this wire has voltage w/key to off you might want to pull the plug off the back of the alternator if you haven't done this already and then recheck the B/W wire once more. And it's most important to check the B/W wire when the items you suggested are powered when key is to off. If you check the B/W wire when the items are off w/key to off then you find anything suspicious. The key here is checking things when the items you list are powered w/key in the off position.

trickster

I checked the B/W wire with key to ON and it had power. Then I checked it with key turned to OFF (with those interior items on) and it still had power. I disconnected the B/W and black wire connector and the items did not turn off. Then I disconnected the connector on the back of the alternator and they still did not turn off

satch

iTrader: (1)

Since the Black wire at the ignition switch supplies power to the switch and it being disconnected did not affect the problematic items then that obviously rules out the ignition switch as being the cause.

I cannot remember if it was suggested to pull the BTN fuse (engine fuse box) when the problematic items were on w/key to off. If not then do so and if it was already suggested can you restate what the result was.

And when the Black, B/W wire plug was disconnected at the ignition switch w/the items on you should check for voltage on the B/W wire (while unplugged) as it would be a big surprise if it did not have voltage.

Another thing. Do the turn signals actually work w/key to off (as in do they blink individually) or is it just the signal lights which are illuminated.

trickster

I'm not at home right now but I can say that the turn signals are fully functional when the key is turned to OFF

trickster

Pulling the BTN fuse has no effect on the issue. The black/white and black wire has power when it is disconnected and the issue is on.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So it looks like part of the problem lies w/the B/W wire having voltage when it is unplugged from the ignition switch. In a normal situation the switch takes voltage from the Black wire (powered by the battery) and passes it on to the B/W wire when the key is in the on position so what you have going on is completely irregular.

There are 5 fuses which are normally powered by the B/W wire w/key to on. They are the engine, meter, steering, window and turn fuse. You should pull each one and see if it has any affect on the B/W wire when it is unplugged.

And this is important and might have already been asked but when you did the swap did you use the original NA harnesses completely or did you switch out any NA wiring in place of the turbo wiring?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Since you disappear for periods of time it makes diagnosing your problem that much harder so I'm going to hit you with a bunch of other things to do.

The Black wire having voltage is normal even though it is unplugged from the switch because this wire is powered directly from the battery.


If you pull the 5 fuses above and it has no affect on the B/W wire (still has power) then try some of the following. W/the Black and B/W wire unplugged from the ignition switch check for voltage on the Blue and B/R wires in the same ignition switch when the B/W wire has voltage and is unplugged. Just check these two wires for voltage in this situation.

Again, if pulling the 5 fuses has no change on the B/W wire then try this. W/the battery negative cable removed unbolt the Black cable at the alternator. Then place the battery terminal back on and check for voltage on the B/W wire once again.

Another thing to try is this. Look at the Black cable coming from the main fuse in the engine fuse box. Look at this cable as it comes from the box on the trailing side of the box (side closest to the windshield). Follow this cable below the box and see where it mates w/a like Black cable. Unplug this cable. If you unplugged the correct connector then the Black wire at the ignition switch will have no power. Then take a wire of length and connect it to the positive battery terminal. Take the other end and place it to the B/W wire unplugged at the ignition switch. Then go back to the unplugged Black cables under the engine fuse box and see if both cables have power. Only one of the two cables should have power and that would be the one coming from the main fuse and not the other Black cable. If both have power then the likely cause is the voltage from the Black cable running to the ignition switch is cracked and passing voltage on to the B/W wire as they come in contact w/each other. Not a likely scenario but it should be checked if none of the above works.

trickster

Used the original NA body harness and swapped in the Turbo engine harness.

Pulling the engine fuse with the black/white wire hooked up still causes the lights and such to turn off. Then, starting up the system from the beginning again, with the fuse replaced and then unplugging the black/white and black connector, I pulled the fuse again and checked the voltage on the black/white wire and it was 0. I checked this just to be safe.

However, upon replacing the fuse, without yet unplugging the EGI COMP fuse as I usually do, the warning lights switch back on and the white/black wire gets power again.

When I unhook the negative battery terminal, or pull the EGI comp fuse, I hear the usual "click" sound of CPU or some other device de-energerizing. Whatever it is is the system that's not turning off and is probably supplying power through the engine fuse. What I'm saying is that pulling the engine fuse is not turning off this system. This system does not turn off whenever I switch the key from ON to OFF. It sounds as though it's coming from the main relay area or I suppose it could be in the passengers footwell.