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Buying a 3rd very soon!! ned advice please.

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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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From: Carteret
Buying a 3rd very soon!! ned advice please.

I love the FD. No other car compares t it. I found one with 120,000 miles on it. How long does the rotary motor last. Will it last longer then 120,000 miles? How often will I have to change the oil? Isnt it more often then a regular motor? i believe its every 4,000 miles right? Is there any problems that the rotary experiences around a certain mileage like 100,000 miles.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 09:41 AM
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Well, you're probably gonna get flamed by the n00b flamers. They'll tell you to read the FAQ's, and search.

120k is a long time for an original motor, if you're sure it's the original and not a reman/rebuilt. You can have a compression test done to give you an idea about the motor, but that won't tell you anything about the condition of the coolant seals/o-rings.

Most people recommend changing your oil every 2-3k, with regular (non synthetic) oils. There are big debates about synthetic, you can search that if you want more info.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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a lot of third gens are on their 3rd motor by 120k, lol.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by White94RX
Well, you're probably gonna get flamed by the n00b flamers. They'll tell you to read the FAQ's, and search.

120k is a long time for an original motor, if you're sure it's the original and not a reman/rebuilt. You can have a compression test done to give you an idea about the motor, but that won't tell you anything about the condition of the coolant seals/o-rings.

Most people recommend changing your oil every 2-3k, with regular (non synthetic) oils. There are big debates about synthetic, you can search that if you want more info.
+1, most rotaries will make it between 40-60k miles before they need a rebuild or a new engine.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by White94RX
Well, you're probably gonna get flamed by the n00b flamers. They'll tell you to read the FAQ's, and search.

120k is a long time for an original motor, if you're sure it's the original and not a reman/rebuilt. You can have a compression test done to give you an idea about the motor, but that won't tell you anything about the condition of the coolant seals/o-rings.

Most people recommend changing your oil every 2-3k, with regular (non synthetic) oils. There are big debates about synthetic, you can search that if you want more info.
such a nice guy and not flame the noob here =). TriO #3, white94RX gave you some great infos, and also remember to check the STICKIES on the 93+ RX7 section, theres lots of info for newbie owners or potential future owners like urself.
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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yeah I tlaked to the dealer. They told me its rebuilt. God I really want the RX-7 but I was it as a daily driver/hooking it up as well. Is it really worth it to get it now? Im a college student. Does maintenance on the FD really gonna clean out my pockets? So every 40,000 to 60,000 miles I will have to rebuild the motor?
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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Tri0 #3,
Ask for the service record if they have one, (when motor was rebuilt so you know approximately how much miles on the new motor) then you can plan ahead (with money). Also, if you could live wihtout having one, there are many performance car out there that do not need as much maintenace as RX-7.
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Well, not necessarily every 40-60k. The first motor in mine lasted 70k, and I've got over 74k on this one now, and still on the original turbos. I've had the car since 70k, and haven't had that many issues: Alternator, radiator, a few bushings in the rear suspension, and one or two misc other things.
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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From: Carteret
an fc huh? I like the FC I found one thats pretty good but could i chnage the convertible to a hard top? I dont really like the convertibles. What do you guys think about this one? http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...ce=&cardist=20
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 12:12 AM
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verts use a different chasis than hatchbacks. You'd be better off just buying a non turbo hatch than buying a vert and trying to convert it.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 08:10 AM
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just a little advice. if you do buy from a dealer, please make sure they are giving you a fair price. usually when our FDs end up at a dealer they ask for 20k for one with 130k on the clock. then they wait for some excited kid to come in a pay wait they are asking....

oh and the cheapest part of owning this car is the actual purchase of it..... the real costs come after owning it.

not the best choice if your wallet is empty and this is your daily driver.
but if you do purchase, good luck. its a fun car and turns heads.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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Don't buy an FD while you're in college.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 10:20 AM
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geez even though i have limited cash I cant drive around a car that I dont want. I'm a very picky person. I love the FD but right now its probably not the best choice for me, hopefully after medical school ill have it. Im only into FR cars. The reason i lose my recent car was because of a huge flood that happened in my street and the insurance declared it totaled. It was a lexus sc300 manual to which is really rare to find.the insurance gave me more then i expected but to fix a lexus, just cause its lexus is to expensive as well. its a very reliable motor though the 2j-z. they could last up to 300,000 miles. Now im on a search for a toyota corolla (ae86) but i doubt ill find one, and i need a car cause it shard for me to get around. if only the motor was more reliable on the FD i would have her to love always =( this is the original fd i was looking at http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...ce=&cardist=50 i was pretty sure i could bring him down to about 9 grand
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Midwest 7's
a lot of third gens are on their 3rd motor by 120k, lol.
Now that is a good reason to not buy any rotary powered car. But here we are, still paying that bottomless bill
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Tri0 #3 just get a 240sx. FR and easier to maintain than rx7s. Not to mention cheap and easy to find.
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