at 5 grand In first and second if i hold it there to long i get blue smoke! if i hit 5 or 6 grand for a short time No smoke. is this "oil cooling the rotors"?

 

Most likely oil leak inside the engine, too much oil getting in, going to need a rebuild soon.

If it's just a tiny little bit of smoke I wouldn't worry though, rotaries do smoke a bit, but usually it's not too blue.

 

the oil seals are geting tired
try switching to high viscosity oil

and save for an overhual in the next few 10k miles

 

I read somewhere that you can put somthing in the motor to make the oil seals work like they should! trany sealer or somthing along them lines! also switching to redline 20-50 synthetic oil very soon

 

put some marvel mytery oil in about 500 miles before an oil change, it will possibly make the oil seal swell a little

 

so go to 20W-50 to eliminate some of the smoking? I get smoking only when I take the engine to high rpm, and some smoke at idle. It is a tiny amount at idle, but a big puff when I shift from high RPM. No puff if I shift before 5k though.

 

ill try the marvel mytery oil if there is such thing! also yes im switching too 20-50 redline synthetic! like what should be in the car but isnt right now

 

and i saw some junk you pour in the motor that makes it last forever! they drained the oil, then poured sand in the valve covers and it still worked....

i dont' believe in myths...

don't use synthetic. just use 50w or 60w oil. i use valvoline vr1.

if the oil control rings are getting tired, they're getting tired. there's no such thing as a miracle fix.

 

MMO and atf do swell rubber seals and will make them last a little longer

 

and save for an overhaul
it'll start doing it again soon enough even with 20-w50

 

ok, pour atf in and if it stops smoking, i'll shut up.

 

ATF could cause it to smoke worse because it supposedly eats rubber (oil) seals. I'd never EVER put ATF in any of my engines. I wish the ATF thing would die.

MMO made Long Duck's GSL-SE smoke horribly at startup. He thinks it ate through the carbon that had built up on them over the years. I put MMO in my Jspec import engine and it smokes for a couple seconds at startup. It should get worse with time (a rebuild is in order).

Synthetic could mess up gaskets and oil seals on an engine as old as yours and cause even more smoke. I'd never put synthetic in an old engine.

Don't believe the hype. Just switch to a thicker oil.

In my opinion, I find rotary engines really rewarding to rebuild. They aren't very complicated. You need basic garage things like an engine crane (unless your back can handle a dead lift at an awkward position), floor jack etc, and only one special tool; a 2 1/8" socket or similar tool for the 54mm flywheel nut.

 

you forgot carbide

 

ive put atf in the oil on a few boingers to get the main seals to swell, works pretty good that way, but down the carb, hell na

 

true it might start smoking agian! however i hope i slowed the prosses! i am now using synthetic redline oil! big diffrence! runs smooth! alittle more power! anyways if it starts smoking ill pull it apart! Nothing can make my stop driving an rx7...No more smoke anymore! now i need to try some marvel to thicken up the seals! they are rubber right? lol

 

if you think you have more power from switching brands of oil, think again.

in a rotary, you lube the e-shaft....that's more or less it.

in a piston engine, you've got the entire valvetrain that gets lubed. lots more friction. synthetic is great for trannies and diffs, but BAD for a rotary engine.

 

thats never been proven, and lots of people use synth in RE's, there have beeen several discussions over the years

 

The key is using a synthetic that doesn't ash when it burns.

 

good point on the ash content...that's why castrol gtx is recommended by so many.

problem isn't when synthetic burns.....problem is synthetic doesn't burn very well, so you get left with oil sludge in your combustion chambers--which leads to hot spots and detonation.

 

I don't think I'll ever bother with synthetics.

 

i like synthetic for piston engines, ocassionally. not normal engines, mind you, but 400+hp style.

 

The additive you are referring to is commonly referred to as "motor honey". It's basically a VERY VERY thick oil that fills gaps in old seals and prevents oil from seeping past those gaps thus preventing excess burning.

In rotaries it actually works very well for oil control rings/seals that aren't totally shot. Go to pep boys and pick up a bottle of "STP Stop Smoke" and add it with each oil change while using 20/50 oil. In the winter months I wouldn't run both since that oil will be very thick upon start up and not very protective. Through the winter 10/30 w/ motor honey works well.

This procedure kept my used motor intact for the past 30K miles!! The oil seals just died a few weeks ago after about 3 years of hard driving. My OEM motor blew a few years back and I got my current engine from a local rotary guy for next to nothing...we tossed the motor in and it smoked like crazy for a few days of driving even after making absolutely sure that the OMP was working correctly. Compression was very strong though and I read about the motor honey thing and gave it a shot. After 1 bottle and about a week of easy driving the car was much better. I added another bottle and after a few more days I was smoke-free. I ran the car with 20/50 and both bottles of stop-smoke for about 1500 miles and changed the oil. From then on I ran 20/50 and 1 bottle of stop smoke per oil change with great success.