When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Now she is throwing a code 16 EGR function sensor. I had already repaired the wires on it they are still good. I think the problem is it was letting vacuum bleed out the sensor. I tried tightening it but it’s all plastic and started to break cuz it’s old and brutal from being cooked. So I just globed a bunch of gray RTV on it and slapped it back together. I’ll test it tomorrow for function and with a meter to make sure it’s good before I put it back on. Oh the gasket was also only cut for one hole so it would have failed function test if they had tested it. Gotta cut a new gasket anyway cuz it broke into pieces pulling it off so I will cut both holes and make functional.
Clear the codes since those can linger even after re-connecting the sensor.
Code-wise: You just need the EGR circuit to show continuity without vacuum and no continuity with vacuum applied. There's wiring bypass writeups on here using a normally closed relay.
Functionally, it's not going to do much.
Best way I know to solve this problem is to move to TENNESSEE
Antique vehicle registration for 25 year old cars
$35 one time fee
No emission test
CA has a similar option, but it sucks because it is very restrictive on how many miles can be driven per year in addition to dictating where one can use the car for. Trip to the mechanic, parade, car show, yep. Taking it to have lunch or for work one day... Nope.
So the car was running good and passing smog. However one of the 2 places I went to to check it actually ran it as gross poluter. Had to take it to star station and they wouldn’t smog it with the aftermarket intercooler and intakes. Got the stock one put the parts on the car took it back over and now it’s failing again after putting stock air box and intercooler on. As well the car just feels really sluggish compared to the other parts, didn’t think intake and intercooler would make that big of difference but there is a large loss of power between the 2. I got a boost/vac gauge to install this weekend so I’ll be able to tell that everything is working right. After changing the parts out for stock it just doesn’t feel like it’s boosting good at all. I will attach pic of the smog print out so y’all can see results for yourselves.
Cause separated hose/pipe to the intercooler due to a failed or uninstalled clamp. I installed it so it’s my bad, it’s the little things that really bite ya in the ***. I’ll take it back over this week and post results.
Idle speed results look great so the ACV, air pump, TPS are all working correctly.
Something is taking it out of closed loop during the 2500 rpm portion. I'd check the TPS adjustment.
Well she is still failing. She got a new coolant temp sensor, IAT and new O2, as well as the TPS adjustment between last test and this test. The car is running the best it’s ran but still won’t pass. Any more ideas or am I going to have to take it somewhere with a gas analyzer so they can make adjustments and see if it affects it? I will attach most recent smog report.
Update,
I went threw and tested MAP it’s a little on the high side of the voltage range but still within limits. I just put a new O2 sensor, IAT, coolant temp sensor. As well since I started reviving the car it got a new fuel pump, fuel filter, new pulse damper the old one was leaking, new pressure regulator. The car has all the stock parts back on it again.
the smog tech seems to think there is an issues with the smog pump as he calls it, the air pump. But from my understanding if there was an issue with the air pump idle results would be much worse. I haven’t had any issues with the air pump and idle results show it’s working and every time I check it he clutch comes on ad goes off as it should.
I am suspecting the TPS I have adjusted it several times VIA the procedures in the book and other threads on here. I just went threw and adjusted it again but this time rather then warming the car up I simply manually moved the fast idle cam to be sure the throttle plate was closing all the way. With it closed all the way I focused on full range and got it set right at .4 closed. it smoothly ramps up till linkage stops fully open at 4.43v... with full range set there narrow range is at .83 and ramps up to just over 4.9 fully open, narrow range does hit full voltage a little before wide open. From my understanding full range is the throttle plate angle that’s why I focused on it so much. I discounted the battery to reset he computer, the weather has been nasty so I haven’t fired the car up yet and taken her out to see how she does.
I have a new set of plugs on way the just cuz it can’t hurt and an appointment on Tuesday to get her probed again. We will see if my final TPS adjustment improved it or not plugs may not get here in time to get installed before I take it over.
Last edited by Trace Grove; Feb 13, 2021 at 12:30 PM.
Reason: Add pic
Here are the 2500 probe results after my last TPS adjustment doing it my way manually moving fast idle cam and focusing on full range. The car is over at the shop meow waiting on the actual test results which I will post but according to these results she should pass flying colors.
Well everyone the saga is over! She passed, that last TPS adjustment did the trick. Sorry it took so long car sat for 4 full weeks at my tech with him never testing it so I had to go get it make an appointment else where. I will post the final results thank you to everyone who participated in this thread and helped me. Thank you!
Still to high
