characteristics85

A couple of days ago I drove my car and the boost would not go past 5 lbs it would fall on its face completly, but it wouldnt die(seems electronical) As long as I do not pass 5 pounds of boost it runs perfect. When I do go to 5 lbs it back fires pretty big and it throws out a fire ball. then today I took it out and it worked fine. then I washed it and put coolant in it. then the problem started again. the motor is warn but it does not smoke starts fine and idles perfect. I only have a down pipe mid pipe and a catback exhaust and intake on it. other than that it is stock. what could it be??

fluffysheap

Vacuum lines, probably. Don't ask me which one.

With a midpipe installed you really need an ECU upgrade or you will blow your motor...

characteristics85

about a year ago I had all of the vaccum lines replaced my a-spec tuning. today I was checking them couldn't find any bad ones. I took the car to about 50 miles per hour and put it in 2nd and bearly got on it to see how the boost reacted. it started hessitating really bad and around 1 or 2 lbs of boost. could it be the fuel injectors are stuck?

fluffysheap

This is not the sort of problem stuck fuel injectors could cause.

characteristics85

if the secondary fuel injectors were stuck what would it do? I forgot to mention that this all started after the winter I started it 3 times during the winter time. before winter it ran perfect. then a week ago I tried to drive it and it did it. if that can help any? what are something I should check. please I need help

characteristics85

does anyone know were I can get a stock mid pipe at for a good price?

fluffysheap

Faulty injectors means flooding, hard starting, bad fuel economy, fuel smell. Obviously with your fireball-shooting you are getting way too much fuel but something other than the injectors has to be at fault. And, that certainly wouldn't cause hesitation. But I'm not really a 3rd gen guy, so my ability to figure out exactly what it IS, is pretty limited.

As for a stock main cat, I'd recommend the local forsale forum, FDs are emissions exempt in Chicago AFAIK due to age, so you can probably get one for cheap. You'll need your air pump hooked up, as well.

1SickWS6

I am having this exact same problem! Boost will quickly rise to 5 psi or so then cut out.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..

characteristics85

I was told to use a propane tank to check the vaccum lines is that a good idea? if so were would I start?????

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

Im having the same problem. Just blew my high-flow cat to hell yesterday with a huge backfire...flames, smoke and chunks of honeycomb. hehehe I would think its vacuum related but I have replaced 95% of the lines under the motor. No difference in the problem. So I guess its time for the other 5.

fluffysheap

* Propane is ok for finding a vacuum leak, but that's the sort of vacuum leak that makes your idle suck. The FD turbo control plumbing doesn't have vacuum all the time. Unless it's a hose that has vacuum at idle propane won't find it.

* There's more to the rat's nest than just hoses - there are also solenoids, check valves, and maybe other stuff too that can all go bad. I know a lot of times people put check valves in backwards and then stuff won't work. So if your lines look ok... look closer!

Rocking Rotary

iTrader: (14)

There are a number of things that will not allow your FD to boost proberly. Here is a quick run down of things to check. Turbos, controll valve, controll sylinoides (cant spell this early sorry), check vavles, IC leak, and make sure your gauge works its rare but it happens.

Also check to see if your 2nd turbo is coming online and how much oil is being leaked internally and externally.

sunil517

iTrader: (14)

and then an ignition break under boost. When I disconnect my intercooler pipe car is clean to redline as an NA motor. I am think new plug wires as I have seen this once b4. New plugs and no vacc leaks what so ever. 3" dp md and cat and apexi intake. Friend have the same setup and is runnign 12-14psi on stock ecu.
I want the same but I will add a PFC as soon as i get it to run clean as is..

Anyone tried the igniter I am going to try that next since I have an extea then to wires. after that the coils.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Lots of times when boost is stuck at a steady 5psi it's the double throttle hose. See if that came off.

Good luck

ps actually sense this problem is on and off that might not be it but it could be the solenoid

sunil517

iTrader: (14)

My problem is only under boost and pops at 4-5 psi. Cr drop great whe i took it in for winter storage. I have all new plugs wires fuel filter all vac lines look good.

drive it NA and redline w/o a problem.
Took the plugs back off and the trainling looks kinda wet. So I will swap out my igniter next and boost sensor after that.

KBSRX7

its easy, vaccuum leak ,...somewhere. Sometimes the primary fuel rail can cause this. I DO KNOW if you continue to let it pop like that you'll be singing "pop the magic rotary" song.

twilight slide

I've have never worked on a fd, but low boost + backfire sounds like boost leak to me. Is it possible to use a compressor to check for boost leaks or do the check valves prevent that?

characteristics85

Well I have new plugs and wires on the way. They are three maybe four years old but the car was not used for almost more than a year when i had it in school and painted it. so hopefully that is the problem. how can I tell if i do have a boost leak?? how would the car act?

twilight slide

get an air compressor, and a bottle of soapy water. Pressureize the intake system, listen for leaks. Soapy water bubbles around a leak.

genxxxracer

i had the same problem when i just bought mine. I noticed that the two nuts that hold the bottom part of the compression tube were missing so it wasnt getting a tight seal. Once I put two new ones on there it boosted to 15 psi no problem. Might not apply to you but it was the only change I did and it fixed it immediately.

characteristics85

Today I changed the plugs on it. It ran smoother but still cut out the same. I dont think I mentioned that when I am in first and I keep the boost at around 0-1 psi i can let it rev to redline. no problem but if I let the boost go any higher it starts popping and putting and if i open it up it will hit 5-7 psi and fall on its face hard and back fire really loud. but even if i have the boost steady at 4psi at 4500 rpms it will stutter and put alot but the boost stays consistant. could that be a boost leak since the boost stays consistant like that?

characteristics85

My car I took it out today i was at 4500 rpms stepped on it enough to make the boost reach 3 psi held it for a sec it hessitated then the boost dropped a tiny bit under 0 went smooth till it built boost back up. I am pretty sure it is a boost leak...Any thoughts on were I should start to look for a leak or a easy way to look for leaks? please help!

characteristics85

If I were to use the air compressor were can I connect it to? and how? to pressureize the intake system?

characteristics85

Can anyone help me? is there a way I can pressureize the intake system?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

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