Reddon

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, here is the history. So I rebuilt my 86 NA. I replaced the center iron with a JDM s5 Turbo Iron because the last one had a broken inner water jacket. I installed all my emissions equipment back on except for the EGR because the new Iron does not have ports for it. I filled the center iron EGR passage with Red RTV, near the LIM because it is in a lower position than the stock s4 NA iron and the LIM would have not matched up to it. I capped off the plug on the vac Spider that went to the EGR. I used Mazda OEM apex seals, my apex seal springs were great so I reused them. The existing side seals with new springs, new Oil control O-rings, the springs I had for them were good, new corner seal springs. I also installed the thermo pellet from atkins. The only other mod is a K&N cone air filter. All my grounds are installed correctly and all the manufactures plugs are still on so I know it is all hooked up correctly. I have a new fuel filter in now too. My pulley had the colored marks rusted off of it. It does not have notches. There was a faded mark that could have been yellow so I marked it and put a small scratch near it and timed the car to the yellow mark, lining up the CAS and dropping it in.

So on to the story. After getting it all put back in and everything hooked up I pulled the Engine Comp fuse and built oil pressure. Once that was high I replaced the fuse and started it up. It started up and sounded great. Here is a link to the video.

I kept the idle low but the engine felt great.

So while it is idling I am watching the oil pressure and all is well. The car dies on me and I seem to have flooded it. Apparently it is easy to flood a new engine. My battery starts to fade on me so I hook up a charger. It starts back up and I leave the charger on.
Once I see that the engine is starting to reach normal operating temps (1/4 of the way up) it starts to buck and my oil pressure goes to the very top! Pinged. This all happened very quickly, From running awesome to... Horrible. I shut it down and take a look around. Everything seems fine and I start to suspect having the battery charger on it messed up the meter. My oil pressure sender is plugged in and it is joined with that little block on the Clutch master cylinder still. So I look around for a bit then I decide to give it another start. The oil pressure gauge is still pinned. I squeeze the oil cooler lines and they are tight, so I know I am getting oil. Well now the car runs bad. Moving the CAS clockwise seemed to smooth out the idle a bit. my oil pressure gauge now reads below the 0 at start then climbs up a bit but is inaccurate. I take it for a drive and it has zero power. I kept it below 3-3.5k RPM. All this was yesterday.
So today I go out to try again, see if it runs okay cold like it did when I first started it. The plugs are full of gas so I cleaned them off. It does not want to start. I have not done a compression check and am almost afraid to. I hope there is nothing wrong there.

My Ideas are this.

I have the timing horribly off. I know there is a way without pulley marks to get an idea of where to set the CAS by using the spark plug holes and apex seals? I may have to try this.

The battery charger fried something in the ECU?

My Red RTV Plug I squeezed into the center iron to block off the EGR Passage gave way and now I have a horrible vacuum leak..

But if it was just a vacuum leak then why would all of this happen: the oil pressure skyrocketing or the sensor giving out and then the engine not wanting to idle and bucking and then the only way to make it run decently by moving the timing clockwise to the max all happening when the engine hit that 1/4 inch of engine temperature?

Does it have something to do with the fast idle warm up procedure turning off then making it run crappy? It was one second running good then all these things happened at once.

My status now is that I can get it to turn over but it seems to be running on one rotor or something, is runs at a super slow rpm but actually will stay running for a few seconds like that, like 300 rpm.. Its flooding out so bad every time now so I have the battery on charge and will try to get it running again. I redid the CAS putting it in the same position it was in when the engine started up the first time. All I am doing for that is lining up the pin with my mark which I believe to be the yellow mark and lining up the gear with the frame of the CAS. I probably shouldn't have messed with that because it ran fine like it was. It was that violent event that changed everything.
I dumped pretty much all the money I had into getting this project done, I hope you guys can help because I am so stressed about this! Thanks in advance.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You likely answered some of your own questions for if you are not confident that the timing is set properly then you need to address that issue. There are threads on how to perform correct timing by peering into the plug holes. Do that and you'll hopefully solve some of your issues.

Reddon

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Satch,
Somewhere else on the forums I read that a guy did not have indents on his pulley. This gave me the idea that I had one of those pullies but after I took it off and was about to swap it with a turbo II pulley I have (incorrectly), I hit it with a wire brush and found the notches! Now It's running good. Starts right up and idles nice at 1000RPM. I do have some issues with my electrical system it seems. I'm at about 200 miles now and I'm still breaking it in and Not bringing it over 4000 RPM so it's tough to test at this point. This electrical system problem existed before the rebuild and I might have to start a new thread on it.

A few years ago one of the valves on my air control valve shorted and melted the connector. I replaced the valve with what I think was the right one, it's the one with the white connector. I had to solder the connector on so it may have been the other valve. What's happening is when I put a continuity checker on my battery it goes from no continuity to continuity in a very predictable pattern. It's off then on with a gap of about 1.8 seconds. Inside my car the voltage meter also jumps at the same rate which is what made me put the multimeter on the battery itself. I know I have a problem with my split air system and the secondary actuators so I might have to splurge for an RPM switch to do some type of mod for the secondary actuators. Power is still very low at low RPM on the car like it was before the rebuild, I can get up hills but it's not like other NA fc's I've had prior. The last time I tested the acuators they opened up under 3000 rpm which would explain the low end. Anyway I'll probably make a new topic for this after searching around. Thanks for your help!

Edit: Also! My oil pressure gauge is still going crazy. I had it idling for about an hour and took it for a drive and it shot back up to the top, then went back to the bottom after a mile or so. It still read an increase in pressure when I reved it up though even as it was falling. Watching that thing drop really went against all my instincts even though I know it sits on the bottom now because it's warped.

Don in Tennessee.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

is the condenser for the oil pressure gauge connected correctly or at all?

Reddon

iTrader: (2)

It is, and it worked correctly before I rebuilt. The little grounded resistor thing is connected to the slave cyl. still as well.