20B questions
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I wish I was driving!
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From: BC, Canada
20B questions
I've been trying to get some info on the 20B three rotor quite a bit lately, and think I am doing ok, but a few things I want some clarification on.
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
The stationary gear on the front 20B specific intermediate housing is what confuses me. Is this cast into the actual housing, or does it bolt on? How strong is it (compared to aftermarket stationary gears)?
How do you assemble the engine? The hole for the 20B intermediate housing stationary gear is smaller than the size of the eccentric shaft. How do you get the eccentric shaft through that hole?
What about Hitman's 20B? How does he get in the third stationary gear? How does he get that gear over the eccentric shaft?
I may have some money coming my way soon, and may begin the very long 20B conversion. I want to go all out on this thing, single turbo (you know the drill), and wanna know how you take the thing apart before I ever get it. I hate Ignorance!
Is there a 20B FSM? Any great websites?
Sean Cathcart
I used much of the below diagram for help, and realize the rotor housings are facing the wrong way.
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
The stationary gear on the front 20B specific intermediate housing is what confuses me. Is this cast into the actual housing, or does it bolt on? How strong is it (compared to aftermarket stationary gears)?
How do you assemble the engine? The hole for the 20B intermediate housing stationary gear is smaller than the size of the eccentric shaft. How do you get the eccentric shaft through that hole?
What about Hitman's 20B? How does he get in the third stationary gear? How does he get that gear over the eccentric shaft?
I may have some money coming my way soon, and may begin the very long 20B conversion. I want to go all out on this thing, single turbo (you know the drill), and wanna know how you take the thing apart before I ever get it. I hate Ignorance!
Is there a 20B FSM? Any great websites?
Sean Cathcart
I used much of the below diagram for help, and realize the rotor housings are facing the wrong way.
The eccentric shaft is two piece, thats how you put it together. You put the front together first and then once youve done the middle you slide the long piece of the shaft through, then put the rest together normally. You need to see the two bits of the shaft to sus' it out.
All the stationary gears bolt in as normal and are very strong. getting the shaft apart when dissassembling is sometimes difficult and may require a little heating of the shaft and a slide hammer to pull them apart.
The weak parts of a 20B are the end plates, particularly the centre plate. The late model 20B's have a thicker centre plate casting where the oilway dowel goes through, this is the one to get, but I'd still dowel the motor to help prevent torsional twist.
All the stationary gears bolt in as normal and are very strong. getting the shaft apart when dissassembling is sometimes difficult and may require a little heating of the shaft and a slide hammer to pull them apart.
The weak parts of a 20B are the end plates, particularly the centre plate. The late model 20B's have a thicker centre plate casting where the oilway dowel goes through, this is the one to get, but I'd still dowel the motor to help prevent torsional twist.
Re: 20B questions
Originally posted by scathcart
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
Is this cast into the actual housing, or does it bolt on?
Is there a 20B FSM? Any great websites?

Try http://www.3rotor.com/ ?
-Ted
The housings are not 13b-REW parts, they are 20B parts.
, it is highly reccomended that you replace the housings with 3rd gen housings. You see, the three rotor that comes in cosmos arent really meant to be 700hp beasts from the factory, the ports dont flow well, the stock turbos arent very effiecient, so basically, to go "all out" as you say, you need to obtain a 20B, tear the whole thing apart, replace the housings with 3rd gen parts, use a large port ( if you arent going to go for at least 500WHP, use a 13B, much cheaper), and large turbo. You also really should use tec III, or even better, motec, you cant use haltech because the computer doesnt have enough ignition outputs for 3 rotors, well, if you run the trailing and leading times the exact same you can, but thats a complete different story, and a big pain the the ***. Point being, its a very expensive conversion, and if the car isnt going to make over 500WHP, convert your car to a large turbo, its a lot cheaper and you can make 500 WHp with race gas. Dont mess around with this conversion, do it right the first time, over do it, make everything perfect, dont take the easy route, spending more money in the beggining will save you more money in the end, and youll have a much more reliable car that makes tons of HP.
Rob
93 RX7, white/blue pearl
Coming soon to a street race near you...
Garret T-72, haltech, race port
be afraid.....i am.
, it is highly reccomended that you replace the housings with 3rd gen housings. You see, the three rotor that comes in cosmos arent really meant to be 700hp beasts from the factory, the ports dont flow well, the stock turbos arent very effiecient, so basically, to go "all out" as you say, you need to obtain a 20B, tear the whole thing apart, replace the housings with 3rd gen parts, use a large port ( if you arent going to go for at least 500WHP, use a 13B, much cheaper), and large turbo. You also really should use tec III, or even better, motec, you cant use haltech because the computer doesnt have enough ignition outputs for 3 rotors, well, if you run the trailing and leading times the exact same you can, but thats a complete different story, and a big pain the the ***. Point being, its a very expensive conversion, and if the car isnt going to make over 500WHP, convert your car to a large turbo, its a lot cheaper and you can make 500 WHp with race gas. Dont mess around with this conversion, do it right the first time, over do it, make everything perfect, dont take the easy route, spending more money in the beggining will save you more money in the end, and youll have a much more reliable car that makes tons of HP.Rob
93 RX7, white/blue pearl
Coming soon to a street race near you...
Garret T-72, haltech, race port
be afraid.....i am.
Originally posted by VTECthis
You also really should use tec III,
You also really should use tec III,

or even better, motec,
you cant use haltech because the computer doesnt have enough ignition outputs for 3 rotors,

-Ted
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