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Old Mar 21, 2002 | 04:16 AM
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I wish I was driving!
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20B questions

I've been trying to get some info on the 20B three rotor quite a bit lately, and think I am doing ok, but a few things I want some clarification on.
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
The stationary gear on the front 20B specific intermediate housing is what confuses me. Is this cast into the actual housing, or does it bolt on? How strong is it (compared to aftermarket stationary gears)?
How do you assemble the engine? The hole for the 20B intermediate housing stationary gear is smaller than the size of the eccentric shaft. How do you get the eccentric shaft through that hole?

What about Hitman's 20B? How does he get in the third stationary gear? How does he get that gear over the eccentric shaft?

I may have some money coming my way soon, and may begin the very long 20B conversion. I want to go all out on this thing, single turbo (you know the drill), and wanna know how you take the thing apart before I ever get it. I hate Ignorance!
Is there a 20B FSM? Any great websites?

Sean Cathcart
I used much of the below diagram for help, and realize the rotor housings are facing the wrong way.
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Old Mar 21, 2002 | 10:02 AM
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the project
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You might want to try asking in the 20b subforum in inder the rotary performance forum. Thats where all the 20B people hang out.
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Old Mar 22, 2002 | 04:14 AM
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The eccentric shaft is two piece, thats how you put it together. You put the front together first and then once youve done the middle you slide the long piece of the shaft through, then put the rest together normally. You need to see the two bits of the shaft to sus' it out.
All the stationary gears bolt in as normal and are very strong. getting the shaft apart when dissassembling is sometimes difficult and may require a little heating of the shaft and a slide hammer to pull them apart.
The weak parts of a 20B are the end plates, particularly the centre plate. The late model 20B's have a thicker centre plate casting where the oilway dowel goes through, this is the one to get, but I'd still dowel the motor to help prevent torsional twist.
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Old Mar 27, 2002 | 12:25 AM
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From: n
Re: 20B questions

Originally posted by scathcart
Now the three rotor uses REW (3rd gen) parts, such as in the rotors, front and rear housings, rear intermediate housing, stationary gears, etc.
It also looks like the rotor housings are 3rd gen housings.
(that all right?)
No, at least not on the Series I 20B.&nbsp These are more closely related to the FC Kouki turbo parts.&nbsp The stat bearings are totally propietary on the 20B with 3-windows.

Is this cast into the actual housing, or does it bolt on?
It's bolted and removable.


Is there a 20B FSM? Any great websites?
I'd like to know too...
Try http://www.3rotor.com/ ?


-Ted
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Old Mar 27, 2002 | 11:45 AM
  #5  
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The housings are not 13b-REW parts, they are 20B parts. , it is highly reccomended that you replace the housings with 3rd gen housings. You see, the three rotor that comes in cosmos arent really meant to be 700hp beasts from the factory, the ports dont flow well, the stock turbos arent very effiecient, so basically, to go "all out" as you say, you need to obtain a 20B, tear the whole thing apart, replace the housings with 3rd gen parts, use a large port ( if you arent going to go for at least 500WHP, use a 13B, much cheaper), and large turbo. You also really should use tec III, or even better, motec, you cant use haltech because the computer doesnt have enough ignition outputs for 3 rotors, well, if you run the trailing and leading times the exact same you can, but thats a complete different story, and a big pain the the ***. Point being, its a very expensive conversion, and if the car isnt going to make over 500WHP, convert your car to a large turbo, its a lot cheaper and you can make 500 WHp with race gas. Dont mess around with this conversion, do it right the first time, over do it, make everything perfect, dont take the easy route, spending more money in the beggining will save you more money in the end, and youll have a much more reliable car that makes tons of HP.
Rob
93 RX7, white/blue pearl
Coming soon to a street race near you...
Garret T-72, haltech, race port
be afraid.....i am.
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Old Mar 27, 2002 | 11:47 AM
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by the way.... you DO know the engine is meant to mount to an auto tranny dont you ???
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Old Mar 27, 2002 | 04:55 PM
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From: n
Originally posted by VTECthis
You also really should use tec III,
I'll attack this in the 20B section...

or even better, motec,
Unless MoTeC came out with something new (last model I checked was the M800), it cannot fire 6 independent ignition channels with a split trailing ignition map.

you cant use haltech because the computer doesnt have enough ignition outputs for 3 rotors,
E6K with an additional IG5 works fine.



-Ted
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