chrisw80

iTrader: (8)

hi

I have an 87 t2 with an s4 t2 j-spec motor. And i have bin having all kind's of problems with this motor for a wile now. I just cant seem to get it to run right it keeps flooding out everytime i get it started. and it will not start unless i use starting fluid or push start it. I am 100% shure there are no vaccume leaks and all sensors have bin tested and all wiring is 100% complete. I have fuel compression and spark and timing is dead on. So after go through the hole car and checking everything out my question is. Is there anyway (is it possable) a motor can be bad if it has good compression. I have 95-100 on all 6 rotor facings front and back when cold and 80-90 all the way around when its wormed up. so it has awsome compression. and there is no oil in the coolant or the other way around or anything like that.

Rocking Rotary

iTrader: (14)

Have you had your injectos checked? They may be sticking open especially if this is a JDM motor every one I have worked on need the injectros cleaned. Other than that you seem like you have gone through most every thing else. Your compression is wierd if you get higher numbers when its cold.

Rotorhead34

Ditto on the injector cleaning. I have a jspec in motor in a tII now that wont start and I know its because the injectors are clogged. They click, or the primarys do, the secondaries don't even click. Take the injectors out of your stock motor and try to use them.

7_8_nissan

My first rotory was sounded like yours. It was always flooding and I couldnt get it to "hot-start". I even had the anti-flooding device installed. It left me stranded on the road and local parking lots. Its not a good feeling at all.

Just have the engine rebuilt. While you're at it, get it ported. The thing about buying used USDM or JDM motors is that you never really know the engines true history. I noticed that most engine warehouses dont even offer a money back warranty on used rotory engines. The best thing to do is start from scratch. Yes, its a pain and requires money, but its definately worth it.

According to this manual I have, the compression pressure limit should be 85 psi @250 rpm. The max permissible difference between the chambers should be 21 psi. This is using a standard compression gauge. Hope this helps.