Josh LV

Ok i do know i post this at the risk of flames because im sure alot of this is covered in other posts. but i've been looking and i'm having a hard time finding the kind of info id like. or at least all at once. and i figure hell maybe some people in my shoes might find this post easier! Ok here goes

This is my project car...

OK Its not a 2nd gen rx-7 haha its true... Anyway it's not important. what is important is that it should be 1800lbs soaking wet when its done.

however what is important... is this thing that's going in it. (1988 13b)


1) I just got a 6port RB holly intake thats going to go on it as soon as it gets here.
The motor has good compression 120 and 110. that isnt a problem is it? obviously i'm no expert on the rotaries but i'm learning a good deal.

2) OK first seious question. To my understanding RB sells modified carbs to work well with the rotaries right. I plan on puting just a normal 600 on it and jetting it... is that a bad idea or is there some secret i need to know to make the thing work.

3) I've read 6psi fuel pump? ive got a 10psi electric pump made for weber carbs on my bug at the moment. is that going to cause a problem?

4) And I need a Distrib and coils from an earlier non FI rx-7 right? is there any suggestions or preferences i should be made aware of as far as years go? and what about aftermarket coils and distrib? i've heard something about ls1 coils. anyone? recomendations? heh.

5) As far as block off plates go. Is there a website that sells a whole kit for people converting to carb setup? I've got lots of holes i dont know what to do with... such as

and lots more.. heh

6) And what is this thing? i didnt take it off yet because i don't know if its essential or not. (bottom right pump looking thing)


7) I've read that you need some kind of oil meetering pump that adds oil to the fuel system? Is that bogus and if it's not, what do i need to do with a holly setup to keep it going right? premix?

8) The next question i have is about the stock exhaust header. I was wondering if i should replace it with a custom one. but as, it will fit right with the way i want to set my exhaust.

9) hen there is this nice little thing i noticed.

i noticed that on the other port there isnt something missing

I think its safe to assume whatever it was is long gone heh.. god...
there are little sleaves in those intake ports also. should i just yank them out? or replace the busted one.

10) Oh and while im at it. I might as well ask. does anyone have a 86-88 automatic Counterweight for sale? (the one that goes on the flywheel)

So on that note i can't think of anything else. Please feel free to give me any kind of info you might think is important! heh

Yes i do know there is a vw rotary conversion website out there.
http://www.geocities.com/zenjoe/vw.html
and there is lots of good info but i think the best info on what i need to know is going to be from you experts.
again sorry for any reposted questions here feel free to just throw links at me! heh thanks again

snowball

these engines came fuel injected, the first gen section is going to have more info on carbs.

synesthete

That thing is gonna be beast haha. Rear engine rotary... i like it.

Josh LV

Heh thanks! i hope it will be.

also
I know it came fuel injected. i pulled it out of the 88 rx-7 and i striped down all of the FI stuff its sitting in a neat pile in my garage.
The questions im asking are related to making the motor work with the holly setup. thats why i posted here.


Oh also i got my RB intake today. It looks like someone tried to port match the center 2 oval ports so it is sloped inside and extended vertically prolly about half a CM or more higher than the stock ports on the motor. is that going to be a problem?

rotariesrule

answer to question #2 you must make sure that the oil metering pump (that thing pictured in between #6 and #7) has two lines connected to the carb and the other two to the rotor housings. i have actually seen where the holly turned backwards gives more horsepower.

#3 you should run a regulator with the holley at what holley specifies. you can even use a holly regulator.

#4 a good distributor is the 1980. you can use aftermarket coils if you want too.

#5 racingbeat.com or mazdatrix.com

#6 that thing is the oil metering pump.

#7 you definitely need the oil pump, unless you plan on running premix all the time

#8 headers will give a 10-20% increase

#9 remove those intake sleeves and never put them back in and don't buy any aftermarket ones with ramps in them. they are a hazard. i wonder if that pin went through the engine if so i hope it didn't do damage.

#10 no

Josh LV

thank you!! wonderful.
So it doesnt matter what year coils i use? i could have used the ones in the donar car? doh! heh
these would work? http://www.speedmachineperformance.com/inc/sdetail/6280
Also in picture three the those two things that have the hoses cut from them. Those are the oil lines that go to the meetering pump? just checking for sure.
Also yeah im sure that pin got into the motor. but compression is still good so ive got my fingers crossed.

So i dont need to do anything special to get a holley to make the motor run smooth ?

Thanks very much for the responces that helps me a ton.

rotariesrule

yes those things are where 2 of the oil lines connect. i am not sure about that particular coil.

Josh LV

Thanks also!

rotariesrule

your welcome.

Josh LV

Well i located a distrib and coil pack from i believe an 85.. but it's weird it's actually a 13b FI system with a first gen body but it uses a distrib and FI.... really weird anyone know about these cars? were they like the prototypes heh. also i ordered a counterweight today and i should be able to hang the motor on monday. Ill be sure to post pictures.

Josh LV

wohoo fits like a dream

Mireck 12A

I hope you have got a really really really really good cooling system for the coolant and oil,

the engine is getting none fresh cooling air (as from stock setup)...and painting the engine is making it only heat more.....

As for the rest, nice experiment, we've seen beetles here in europe with Porsche engines in it....

imagine being overtaken by a beetle at 190 Km/h (i know i must have had a funny face 15 years ago when that happend to me the first time )

Josh LV

heh yep!. as for the cooling, the oil cooler, there is a spot on the bottom of the car right behind where the rear seat passanger side would sit. basicaly its where the torsion sits and its going to hang under the car there, lots of air flow!
the engine compartment actually gets plenty of airflow even if the decklid is completely close. remember the motors on these bugs were Air cooled and the design was built around that idea. as far as air in the engine compartment those vents on top of the bay get air pushed when moving. Believe it or not when they were building bugs they did wind tunnel tests and the air flowing over the top of the car ends up geting pushed into those vents or pushed downwards with the curve of the car. like an airplane wing lol. but asides from that

The radiator is going in the front of the car where the spare tire compartment is. something like this idea here. -


with a couple fans pulling from the back and some big *** holes cut in the spare tire well there is tons of flow. quite a few peopel have done similar conversions with much success

however i might be trying to do something a little differant mounting a really wide and really short radiator behind the motor (or i should say infront toward the tranny) and have it sit at a 45 angle, built a shroud so all the air is sucked straight from the vents. not sure yet im going to try and get it figured out today though heh. thanks for the concern!