86PICKUPSTICKS103

hey everyone i have a 70 bug with a 12a swap. i have the coolant pipes running through the center of the car but when the car runs it will run up to 210 fast but i have a 160 degree therm in it. so i took the front radiator cap off while it was at 210 now the water in the radiator was ice cold. an one of the pipes was hot as hell. so i changed water pipe routes it had the same out come.

im running astock water pump does anyone have any ideas?

EDSRX3

Has your set up ever run properly?

If you are not getting enough flow, you could easily over heat the motor with the collant in your rad colling. Then you get a hot supply line and a cold return line and rad with an over heating engine.

What do you know about the system design? Is it low restriction? large hoses, shortest runs, few corners, good rad?

The original water pump was never designed to do this. You may need to upgrade your pump.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like to me your termastat isn't opening up. Replace the t-stat with a Mazda factory one.

86PICKUPSTICKS103

It was air in the high part of my coolant lines.

Kentetsu

Thanks for posting back. You might want to think about adding an inline electric pump though, because that's a long haul for the stock pump to pull that much coolant. Even if it is capable of doing it, the force generated to do so will most likely cause severe cavitation. Actually, I'm kind of surprised you can even keep the belt from slipping, now that I think about it.

Spend a generous amount of time building your cooling system, because nothing will kill your motor faster than an overheat event. And, with your application involving very long fluid runs, you are compounding all of the issues that need to be solved when building even a "stockish" cooling system. Seriously, don't skimp on this part of your build, because nothing else is going to be more critical than controlling your temps.

Best of luck.





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