Can I run/drive or even start my car with the vacuum hoses disconnected from the Turbo Pre-Control solenoid. I think it would be OK, but my secondary turbo wouldn't get any pre-spool exhaust or no exhaust at all. I just want to drive my car REALLY badly, but I snapped both the nipples off of the solenoid.

-Jon

 

Not a good idea. The primary turbo will have no way to vent air .. ie wastegate, so it will make too much boost! If you keep your foot out of the gas it would be ok, but watch that boost because it will spool real fast.

 

The waste gate control solenoid is OK, I only damaged the TPC.

 

When just the primary turbo is working .. the precontrol is the wastegate for it.

 

But the wastegate is also active under primary boost, I think it just is less active (95% solenoid duty, I think). It might overboost on primary, but you could always just put a bleed valve on the hose that comes from the pre-control actuator. I would try to drive the car and watch how high the boost goes below 4500 RPM. If it starts to get too high, let off the gas and install a bleed valve. You could also remove the boost pill to the wastgate to get less boost overall, or install a bleed valve on the wastegate vent instead of using the solenoid. There are a lot of things you could do to get the boost under control.

-Max

 

Max: From page F-84

"duty 95% (Fully closed)" from the wastegate control

The solenoid is open 95% of the time venting all the air from the wasteage actuator keeping it closed. However all the air is still going to flow out that open hose where it cracked from the solenoid. If you plug the vacuum lines going to that solenoid you will be ok. You won't make as much boost but it will be ok.

I do like your idea of a bleed valve.

 

Can't you just unplug the wastegate solenoid electrical connector? The solenoid would remain open and boost would be controlled by the wastegate spring.

 

That's a good solution -- just unplug the wastegate solenoid.

The solenoid will actually stay closed, which means it won't vent pressure out of the wastegate actuator, which means the wastegate will open at a lower boost pressure. It should be safe -- probably around 7 psi primary and secondary.

-Max

 

I thank you all for your input.

 

Um... we still have a problem Houston ....

He broke the ends off the precontrol solenoid so the vacuum hoses have no ends to attach!! This problem will keep the precontrol door from opening.

 

Check out this pic to see what I finally did.


She roared to life like a champ and damn was her exhaust stinky! However, this may be the reason that my idle is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm. When I shifted it into drive, it fealt like the car wanted to break loose! Remember, I did the simplification and removed ACV, DT, and AWS. Could I have an air leak? It would have to be a awefully significant leak!

-Jon

 

Well you need to cap all those vacuum lines for one. I really think you have an air leak. I really can't tell what you are doing for boost control at this point.

 

I connected the wastegate and TPC actuator lines. I figured this would achieve the same thing as capping them (i.e. the gates would open under the slightest pressure). I also connected the two nipples in that little pressure cylinder so that no pressure escaped. I constantly double checked all of my hoses. I can't imagine where I could have a leak that bad somewhere after my throttles. Even if I had a hose loose, it wouldn't affect the car THAT much. I left the ISC on and the idle adjuster screw untouched (I believe it's the slot-head screw under the throttle body).

 

I'm afraid that connecting those lines does not equal capping each seperately! I'm worried that your wastegate and precontrol will both stay shut! The kind of leak that would cause that high of idle would be like your brake booster not connected.

 

Where's the brake booster? Isn't it that half inch hose that connects to the to the UIM right above the LIM on the firewall wide? That's connected. I figure that it could by one of three things.

1. Too much tension on my throttle cable. Perhaps since the throttle cable was disconnected for three and a half weeks that it tensed up enough to hold the throttle slightly open.

2. My Idle Speed Control is messed up. Perhaps it's confused into thinking that there is a very large electrical load and thus bleeding too much air.

3. My idle speed screw has magically loosened itself. Hey, I'm in no position to be picky about suspects.