Fuel time
#3
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It will run normal for about 2 seconds after hitting the switch, then it will just die. Make sure and turn the switch on right before, or as you are truning the key.
#4
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There are two ways of using a fuel pump cut-out switch.
1) Turn the switch off, crank for about 10-15 seconds - this clears out all the fuel.  Stop the cranking, turn the switch back on.  Crank over and the engine should start.
2) Turn off switch, crank over - you'll hear the engine start to catch.  If you're good enough, you can throw the switch just as it's catching and get the engine to start.  This is the "advanced" method.
-Ted
1) Turn the switch off, crank for about 10-15 seconds - this clears out all the fuel.  Stop the cranking, turn the switch back on.  Crank over and the engine should start.
2) Turn off switch, crank over - you'll hear the engine start to catch.  If you're good enough, you can throw the switch just as it's catching and get the engine to start.  This is the "advanced" method.
-Ted
#5
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However, I'm having trouble finding which relay this is. Am I going to have to get inside of the underside of the driver's dash to do this, or is it bunched with the wires along the steering column?
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The relay is mounted on a metal "tab."  Be careful when pulling under the dash - there's some very SHARP metal edges that can easily cut your hands up if you're not careful!
-Ted
-Ted
#11
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Two black/white wires - one is power +12VDC, one comes from the ECU
Blue/red goes to the fuel pump itself - non-turbo wiring shows this to be just a blue wire.
Black/red comes from airflow meter for fuel-cut.
Black is ground.
One of the black/white wires is thicker - you can interrupt this circuit, but you need a 20A minimum rated switch.
The blue/red wire should be just as thick as the above.  Same caution with the switch.
You can try the black/red wire from the airflow meter.
Or, you can try the black ground wire.
These two would be the safest and lowest current of all the wires that would work with a fuel pump cut-out switch.
My personal FC runs a 30A rated switch into the blue/red wire.
-Ted
Blue/red goes to the fuel pump itself - non-turbo wiring shows this to be just a blue wire.
Black/red comes from airflow meter for fuel-cut.
Black is ground.
One of the black/white wires is thicker - you can interrupt this circuit, but you need a 20A minimum rated switch.
The blue/red wire should be just as thick as the above.  Same caution with the switch.
You can try the black/red wire from the airflow meter.
Or, you can try the black ground wire.
These two would be the safest and lowest current of all the wires that would work with a fuel pump cut-out switch.
My personal FC runs a 30A rated switch into the blue/red wire.
-Ted
Last edited by RETed; 04-04-02 at 03:16 PM.
#13
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Wow. My switch burned out, it's heavy traffic to Radio Shack, and it's snowing and dark outside now. Maybe I should just give up tonight...No, I'm running out to Radio Shack
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I'm not an idiot
Okay, both the blue/red (blue in 88s), and small blue/red wire are wrong
I've done this procedure twice in the last two hours and both of them just controlled something else. So I'm really serious, WHICH WIRE IS IT?
I've done this procedure twice in the last two hours and both of them just controlled something else. So I'm really serious, WHICH WIRE IS IT?
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM