I heard the diffrent metals wil react?

I want to get a nice peice cut from a TII hood

 

**** all that, man. get yourself another hood to work on.
and i'll walk you through fabbing. a fibreglass thing for
your hood. When you do the work , it turns out the way
you want it too. it's not that difficult to do.

 

Ok?

Im ready...I think....


What ideas you got?

Im kinda ready now...car dont run..I can take my hood off and use the car cover on it..

Keep in mind... I never worked on fiberglass personally,I do have family that still work at the boat shop who can probally get me some supplies,just let me know what I need..

 

Why would you want to do that? Are you mounting a turbo TII engine in there in completely stock form. I would rather route the intercooler to the front to keep the car looking stock from outside of the car then wreck to smooth look of the 1st gen in front.

 

 

Why dont you leave a little response why its BS then just to post that...

You have never heard of metals reacting to one another?

 

Um, last i checked aluminum and steel don't weld together, so no you can just cut one out and weld it in.

 

Supplys,, Ok, fibreglass resin about a quart, and hardner
i've found that the liquid is better then cream. get the big tube. and sea glass. thats the cloth. your gonna need sand paper(s) all grits. a palm sander and maybe a dremmel w/ cut off wheel. find a good size box in good condition to cut up. The scoope will have 3 sides,
top,left side,right side. the R/L sides are how tall you want it. and how long (deep) . cut the cardboard in the shape you want for sides (profile)

 

I do not recommend a box as the hard corners are really difficult to mold. on anny shape its better to have flanges so you can insert from underneath to get a better join.

There must be numerous places in the US where you can buy an add on scoop cheaply. Ricers buy them just for the looks and do not even bother to cut a hole!

 

I do not recommend a box as the hard corners are really difficult to mold. On any shape its best to have flanges so you can insert from underneath to get a better join.

There must be numerous places in the US where you can buy an add on scoop cheaply. Ricers buy them just for the looks and do not even bother to cut a hole!

Another problem with the Gen 2 scoop is whether the hood is the same profile.

However, I certainly would go for the front mounted intercooler as suggested. What I have not heard is whether blocking the radiator leads to a water heating problem.

 

I do..

The T-II hood scoop piece is not metal the actual scoop and surrond are plastic.

My hood is a 1st gen OEM steel skin with a OEM T-II hood scoop piece and OEM style fiberglass inner frame. You do have to be very careful when bonding and molding the hood scoop or it will seperate and crack with time.. the hood goes through a lot of heat cycles and if not done right, it will begin to seperate. We actually bonded it and riveted it to cure than the rivets were removed before final mold/blend and prep.



-Bern

 

Bern- one of the best looking body conversions I have seen, obviously a very professional job.

I really like the way you have opened up the front for more cooling flow.

 

Thanks for the words Paul! It did take about 20-25 hours of body work to get it done, but it looks OEM.

I've included a few pics so you can see how the profile works out. It's actually quite close. This is why I ended up doing the hood.

BTW, I run an HKS FMIC and 2nd gen oil cooler. No cooling issues. We took care not to double stack the radiator with the IC and OC. In my 7, the units are set-up in a V-configuration in front of the radiator. I also use a Mazda Comp radiator.











more details on the ride:
my turbo 7

-Bern

 

Nice job!!

 

Hey bern ,, how much money did you pay designenergy
for that complete car, with hood. I remember seeing it for sale, but i've forgot the price. hows it holding up so far. do you drive it much ?

 

Mark,
The car was built in a cooperative effort with the guys from Mariah. It was built as a special project for both parties.. So, I really couldn't quote a complete price from them for the car. But, I can speculate that it would cost somewhere in the 15k-20k range to duplicate the effort. To duplicate the hood, would run about $800.. the 20 hours of body work or so makes up much of that.

The car is running great... I was actually on a 400 mile cruise in the San Diego area a few weeks ago. Aren't you in that area?

BTW, I don't drive the car daily, although I could. It gets out a few times a month for hard duty.

I hope this helps.

-Bern

P.S. The car has never been "FOR SALE" but if someone made a reasonble offer.... j/k

 

Bern


I was looking for pics of your car,Yeah that hood came out nice as hell but I couldnt seam it together like that,Its sweet.I got to stil figure how im gonan do this..

The materials were sounding easy Mark..But then when I looked at the pic.... It screwed my head up..

 

ever heard of body filler? its the glue of the ages

 

That has to be one of the best looking 1st gens I have ever seen! Next to mine of course!! Once the steering rack kit is figured out I will do the same and sell TurboII 1st gen hoods for a decent price.

 

How are you gonna do that ??

 

You may not beable to weld them together but you sure can braze them together!

I know this is a little off subject, but it is my quest to keep everybody properly informed.

 

thanks man.. hey I'm really interested in your R&P steering conversion. I've been following the other thread, real nice job! Please keep us informed.

Thanks,
-Bern

 

fawk i want that hood sooo bad my weber doesn't get enough cool air.lol

 

Bern why do you have the air duct on the drivers side?

 

See pic.. I have a custom K&N air intake on that side of the car..