Video: 13B Rotary Engine Rebuild
#1
Engine, Not Motor
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Video: 13B Rotary Engine Rebuild
As part of my '76 Cosmo project, I just built a 6 port 13B NA engine and posted the entire process to YouTube. I then realized that the video applies to basically all 12A and 13B rotary engines, so I'm going to also post the video in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen forums for anyone who is building a rotary.
If you've never built an engine, or are just about to, then you want to watch this video. Covered is the entire build process of a 13B rotary including: measuring rotors, clearancing side seals, assembling all rotor seals, assembling the short block, setting eccentric shaft end play, assembling the "under the front cover" stuff and finally installing the front cover as well as torquing the front hub bolt. As far as I know, this is the only full process free rotary rebuild video out there. This video, combined with the Haynes/FSM manuals, should enable anyone to be confident in putting together their first engine. While the engine shown in this video is a hybrid engine made from both RX-5 Cosmo and GSL-SE parts, the steps covered are the same for any Mazda rotary from 12A to 13B-REW.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijJeUk_GqiI
Enjoy!
If you've never built an engine, or are just about to, then you want to watch this video. Covered is the entire build process of a 13B rotary including: measuring rotors, clearancing side seals, assembling all rotor seals, assembling the short block, setting eccentric shaft end play, assembling the "under the front cover" stuff and finally installing the front cover as well as torquing the front hub bolt. As far as I know, this is the only full process free rotary rebuild video out there. This video, combined with the Haynes/FSM manuals, should enable anyone to be confident in putting together their first engine. While the engine shown in this video is a hybrid engine made from both RX-5 Cosmo and GSL-SE parts, the steps covered are the same for any Mazda rotary from 12A to 13B-REW.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijJeUk_GqiI
Enjoy!
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#9
Sideways is the only way
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^haha, I just read my post again and it sounds creepy, like I'm an online stalker. I meant it as "you definitely know what you're doing" when it comes to rotary engines. I'll be rebuilding for the first time later this year so this really comes in handy.
a question for you aaron: Is there any reason to use the "heavy duty" water jacket seals from pineapple racing on a 350hp 13b turbo, medium street port over regular kit/oem seals? Car will be a daily driver/ weekend drift car for a while. Do you have any knowledge on those seals?
a question for you aaron: Is there any reason to use the "heavy duty" water jacket seals from pineapple racing on a 350hp 13b turbo, medium street port over regular kit/oem seals? Car will be a daily driver/ weekend drift car for a while. Do you have any knowledge on those seals?
#11
Rotary Zealot!
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Curious about a couple things different from the Atkins video/how I've been shown before:
Any reason to use the Copper Permatex RTV over the Ultra Black? Just a color preference?
No Locktite or RTV on the from front eshaft bolt? [Maybe it's just a difference because of the year - what I've seen before was RTV on the washer and red Locktite on the threads]
Also, something interesting.. Have you considered/tried the superglue method for apex seals/springs? [Where you glue the springs and seal piece together to form a single unit]
Any reason to use the Copper Permatex RTV over the Ultra Black? Just a color preference?
No Locktite or RTV on the from front eshaft bolt? [Maybe it's just a difference because of the year - what I've seen before was RTV on the washer and red Locktite on the threads]
Also, something interesting.. Have you considered/tried the superglue method for apex seals/springs? [Where you glue the springs and seal piece together to form a single unit]
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Engine, Not Motor
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^haha, I just read my post again and it sounds creepy, like I'm an online stalker. I meant it as "you definitely know what you're doing" when it comes to rotary engines. I'll be rebuilding for the first time later this year so this really comes in handy.
a question for you aaron: Is there any reason to use the "heavy duty" water jacket seals from pineapple racing on a 350hp 13b turbo, medium street port over regular kit/oem seals? Car will be a daily driver/ weekend drift car for a while. Do you have any knowledge on those seals?
a question for you aaron: Is there any reason to use the "heavy duty" water jacket seals from pineapple racing on a 350hp 13b turbo, medium street port over regular kit/oem seals? Car will be a daily driver/ weekend drift car for a while. Do you have any knowledge on those seals?
As you can see from the video, aftermarket parts sometimes represent a compromise. Such as the Atkins Viton oil o-rings I used. I will never use those again due to the difficulty in installation. I'll stick with the OEM rings which work fine but are slightly more expensive.
No Locktite or RTV on the from front eshaft bolt? [Maybe it's just a difference because of the year - what I've seen before was RTV on the washer and red Locktite on the threads]
Also, something interesting.. Have you considered/tried the superglue method for apex seals/springs? [Where you glue the springs and seal piece together to form a single unit]
I did the product placement as a little joke to make fun of the car shows that always make sure to keep the product labels visible and mention the product name at every opportunity. Now that you mention it, maybe they should kick in some money?
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Sideways is the only way
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thanks for the info related to my question aaron. The heavy duty pineapple seals might be advantageous for someone running maybe 800hp or something if anything. I haven't talked to them about it, I planned on using oem but was curious if you had heard/experience with them.
#19
T2 Duo!
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Thank you so much! This is what the Atkins DVD should have been.
You should make another video of things to look out for and how to tell if a part should not be used. And get a paypal donate button!
Maybe I will attemp to build my engine myself, with aided supervision of course.
You should make another video of things to look out for and how to tell if a part should not be used. And get a paypal donate button!
Maybe I will attemp to build my engine myself, with aided supervision of course.
#24
Rotary Zealot!
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The front e-shaft bolt has a copper sealing washer which seals oil from leaking around it's head. I just made sure to lube it up with Vaseline so it would not get damaged during the install, and I recall that I used red Loctite on the threads (may have been edited out?).
Yea, looks like the Loctite just got edited out.
The springs don't actually get super glued, but the corner apex piece gets glued to the seal. I didn't bother because on both rotors, the corner piece faces up so it is accessible during the build. I pull the corner piece, push in the spring, then put the corner piece back in. If the engine was bridgeported and I had to reverse the rear rotor corner piece so it fit against the center iron, I would have super glued.
Just a different technique I suppose..