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Video: 13B Rotary Engine Rebuild

 
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Old 03-14-11, 06:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X
Archive material!
I shall say it again...
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Old 03-15-11, 12:04 AM
  #27  
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now I want to rebuild an engine. I might head to the junkyard and pull an engine. I'll tell them it's a tranny and pay 80$

thanks mister cake for this video.
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Old 03-15-11, 01:47 AM
  #28  
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its a good vid for those who haven't seen this sort of thing before
however i would add tips for those aftermarket oil control seals
- you fit them first before side and corner seals ,, and you seat them into the rotor using a flat piece of wood and a hammer and a few spaced blows

also for those who wish to save an hour of their life,, avoid taking the oil pump down to the keyway ,,
or if done so already,,pre-assemble the cog onto the oil pump shaft keyway

when you fit the chain drive to the crank,, you slip the oil pump and chain on with it ,, and secure the oil pump at its base by the four bolts using a 10mm spanner

this way you will be sure that you have not displaced the keyway under the cog on the oil pump ( no oil pressure ! )
and you will save yourself from the most painful part of the assembly

i also question the value of some of these aftermarket water seals to the mazda price
,, $180 isnt all that much better than the mazda price

-----------however i often use off the roll viton chord as it IS a significant saving
,, and DOES have a better longevity in overheat situations
it DOES take more time in the assembly
but the cost V improvement in overheat redundancy makes the pain worth it
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Old 03-15-11, 09:53 AM
  #29  
Engine, Not Motor

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Originally Posted by FC_fan
thanks for the info related to my question aaron. The heavy duty pineapple seals might be advantageous for someone running maybe 800hp or something if anything. I haven't talked to them about it, I planned on using oem but was curious if you had heard/experience with them.
I'm very skeptical about many of the aftermarket seals. Many companies seem to be doing apex seals right, but as for the rest of the stuff, there always seems to be a downside. Viton rings may be cheaper but are a pain to install. Graphite gaskets may be cheaper but rely on a perfect surface to seal. Solid corner seals may be cheaper but don't have the little rubber plug to dampen chatter. $200 aftermarket coolant o-rings may be better, but do we need better? Guess that's all part of the decision to make when selecting parts.

Originally Posted by Hazard15301
Excellent, excellent job. It feels better to be learning the steps from a fellow forum member than from some unknown guy in a shop.
I converted it to an avi and saved it to my hard drive .
The full quality WMV file is 420MB. I guess for those who want it, I could post it up...The quality is a bit better than YouTube and it's at 640 x 480.

Originally Posted by tuscanidream
Thank you so much! This is what the Atkins DVD should have been.
You should make another video of things to look out for and how to tell if a part should not be used. And get a paypal donate button!
Maybe I will attemp to build my engine myself, with aided supervision of course.
Some of the inspection is covered in these two videos:

13B Rotary Disassembly and Cleaning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4

Engine Cleaning Continued:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

Originally Posted by FC_fan
ok. ARCHIVE and all the FAQ'S
I'll copy it to the archives soon.

Originally Posted by bumpstart
its a good vid for those who haven't seen this sort of thing before
however i would add tips for those aftermarket oil control seals
- you fit them first before side and corner seals ,, and you seat them into the rotor using a flat piece of wood and a hammer and a few spaced blows
I wish that it was easy to add something to a YouTube video, but to do so, I'd have to delete the old one and upload a new one. I did cover using an old seal to push the new one in though, which helps quite a lot.

also for those who wish to save an hour of their life,, avoid taking the oil pump down to the keyway ,,
or if done so already,,pre-assemble the cog onto the oil pump shaft keyway
when you fit the chain drive to the crank,, you slip the oil pump and chain on with it ,, and secure the oil pump at its base by the four bolts using a 10mm spanner
this way you will be sure that you have not displaced the keyway under the cog on the oil pump ( no oil pressure ! )
and you will save yourself from the most painful part of the assembly
An hour?! In the video it was nearly real time. I think it took only 2 minutes to install the chain. I agree, the first time it can be a big pain but after that it's fairly easy. Just don't let that key fall down! Super glue would likely be a good idea here.
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Old 03-15-11, 10:34 AM
  #30  
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great video.. I shouldn't have wasted the money on the Atkins video
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Old 03-15-11, 06:30 PM
  #31  
Engine, Not Motor

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I wouldn't say that the Atkins video, or any of the vendor rebuild videos are at all a waste of money. After all, you get a physical DVD that you can pop in anytime for reference. Do they have less value now that I have made this video? Well, that's something you'll have to decide...
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Old 03-15-11, 07:12 PM
  #32  
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Haha Great Hannah Montana joke.

I have a quick question for you. Do you feel that doing a full POR-15 paint job on the full car is worth it?
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Old 03-16-11, 09:10 AM
  #33  
Engine, Not Motor

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A full POR-15 job is something that probably should be discussed in a thread about POR-15. But the short answer is "probably not, but maybe depending on what you are doing".

Also copying to Archives now. This thread remains open for questions and answers.
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