what's involved in a 13b rew swap
01-26-08, 07:11 PM
#1
i say deez , you say doze
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what's involved in a 13b rew swap
might be changing my mind on my 91 s5. i got a hell of a deal on a 13b rew with tranny and the wiring harness uncut.. what all would i have to do beside's swaping the mount's and does anyone know where i can get the swap mount's cheaper than $300?
chris
chris
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01-26-08, 08:30 PM
#4
Hey Chris
Best way to find that info is typing in REW in the ADVANCED SEARCH PAGE, click on 2nd gen, 2nd gen archives and any other section and hitting the "search" button
Doing that before posting helps keep the forums with fewer redundant threads, helps with future searches, and helps keep the forums as well focused as possible.
Best way to find that info is typing in REW in the ADVANCED SEARCH PAGE, click on 2nd gen, 2nd gen archives and any other section and hitting the "search" button
Doing that before posting helps keep the forums with fewer redundant threads, helps with future searches, and helps keep the forums as well focused as possible.
01-27-08, 12:29 AM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) motor (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. It is generally cheaper and easier however to put in a 20B (typically around $10,000 installed) than it is an 13B-REW from a FD. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. It is generally cheaper and easier however to put in a 20B (typically around $10,000 installed) than it is an 13B-REW from a FD. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html
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01-27-08, 12:52 AM
#8
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What the faq says is wrong, Saying that its easier and cheaper to put a 20B in is a joke, its far cheaper to do a 13b-rew
hell, a fully rebuilt 13b-rew long block with all parts to put it in can be assembled, for less than 5000 dollars. You can't usually even get a 20B for less than 4K, and then it most likley needs to be fully rebuilt, at a cost 50% greater than what it costs to rebuild a 13B, and thats if the eshaft is good. If the eshaft is bad then thats at least another 1000 if you can find an eshaft, if not then the guru eshaft is 3200.
And on the below point, you must be joking, just because the mounts are made with a mig welder, and the welds arent finished doesn't mean there not strong. Saying a product you have never seen anything but pictures of is poorly built is bad form. I do know the pictures your talking about, I think I was part of the original thread. As I recal the mounts in that thread where prototypes.
The stock rubber mounts will shear when stressed easily when hit on a horizontal plain, what you've written below isn't even a consideration. Let alone when the have 100K plus miles on them like most stock ones do. When I would pull engines from FC's at the junk yard I would often lift the engine withought disconecting the mounts and have it come out easily breaking the mounts long before it lifted the car off the suspension.
If the mount is strong enough not to break on a hard launch, then there is no way that it won't outlast the stock rubber mount when stressed as it would be from a front end collision.
hell, a fully rebuilt 13b-rew long block with all parts to put it in can be assembled, for less than 5000 dollars. You can't usually even get a 20B for less than 4K, and then it most likley needs to be fully rebuilt, at a cost 50% greater than what it costs to rebuild a 13B, and thats if the eshaft is good. If the eshaft is bad then thats at least another 1000 if you can find an eshaft, if not then the guru eshaft is 3200.
And on the below point, you must be joking, just because the mounts are made with a mig welder, and the welds arent finished doesn't mean there not strong. Saying a product you have never seen anything but pictures of is poorly built is bad form. I do know the pictures your talking about, I think I was part of the original thread. As I recal the mounts in that thread where prototypes.
The stock rubber mounts will shear when stressed easily when hit on a horizontal plain, what you've written below isn't even a consideration. Let alone when the have 100K plus miles on them like most stock ones do. When I would pull engines from FC's at the junk yard I would often lift the engine withought disconecting the mounts and have it come out easily breaking the mounts long before it lifted the car off the suspension.
If the mount is strong enough not to break on a hard launch, then there is no way that it won't outlast the stock rubber mount when stressed as it would be from a front end collision.
Last edited by slo; 01-27-08 at 12:57 AM.
01-27-08, 01:04 AM
#9
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It assumes you have the engine in hand.
Yes, the 20B is easier and cheaper to install, period, over a 13B-REW.
You still claim it's wrong?
hell, a fully rebuilt 13b-rew long block with all parts to put it in can be assembled, for less than 5000 dollars. You can't usually even get a 20B for less than 4K, and then it most likley needs to be fully rebuilt, at a cost 50% greater than what it costs to rebuild a 13B, and thats if the eshaft is good. If the eshaft is bad then thats at least another 1000 if you can find an eshaft, if not then the guru eshaft is 3200.
This has NOTHING to do with the cost of the engine itself.
And on the below point, you must be joking, just because the mounts are made with a mig welder, and the welds arent finished doesn't mean there not strong. Saying a product you have never seen anything but pictures of is poorly built is bad form. I do know the pictures your talking about, I think I was part of the original thread. As I recal the mounts in that thread where prototypes.
They do not support the engine directly underneath.
This is a BAD design, period.
This has nothing do with the engine adapters strength.
The stock rubber mounts will shear when stressed easily when hit on a horizontal plain, what you've written below isn't even a consideration. Let alone when the have 100K plus miles on them like most stock ones do. When I would pull engines from FC's at the junk yard I would often lift the engine withought disconecting the mounts and have it come out easily breaking the mounts long before it lifted the car off the suspension.
If the mount is strong enough not to break on a hard launch, then there is no way that it won't outlast the stock rubber mount when stressed as it would be from a front end collision.
Those words are taken direcly from my website.
I've done both a 20B and a 13B-REW into FC chassis'.
I stand by every single word I've said.
-Ted
01-27-08, 01:18 AM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I agree with Ted, 1000%
Here is the typical mount:
Slo do you see quality welds? You trust that support to the motor? Would you let your child or wife, drive a car with those mounts?
Hell you would be better off drilling new mount holes and use a FC mount if you were too lame to know better and had to put a 13BREW in a FC
Here is the typical mount:
Slo do you see quality welds? You trust that support to the motor? Would you let your child or wife, drive a car with those mounts?
Hell you would be better off drilling new mount holes and use a FC mount if you were too lame to know better and had to put a 13BREW in a FC
01-27-08, 01:22 AM
#11
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Most people contemplating this don't allready have the engine in hand this assumtion by itself is a fatal flaw.
The fact that you can buy a dead rew longblock for under 1K, and be into a mazda reman for less than the cost of a used 20B makes the cost of an REW far far cheaper.
And if your assumption is that someone allready has a ready to go 20B, then where do you get anywhere near 10K for the install.
Second, have you seen the mount adapters installed, not just a picture?
I had the same negative opinion untill I saw them.
The weight of the engine is resting on the oil pan flange.
I'm not saying they are good, the design is at best OK, but I would say they are usable.
You could have a hot rod shop modify the stock front subframe to take the rew mounts for about 1000 dollars. I know at least 2 places in my city that would do this in about 2 days.
an even cheaper option would be drilling/tapping holes into the rew block to accept the 13b-re/20B style mounts. Or even stock FC mounts (would obviously have to use FC pan/front cover/cas) a machine shop could do this for 200 dollars.
Its not like it hasn't been done before
After the mounts are taken care of, everything about the 13b-rew is easier and cheaper.
The other
I have an easy solution to 13b-rew mounting that would clear any turbo, that I could do for about 300 or less.
The fact that you can buy a dead rew longblock for under 1K, and be into a mazda reman for less than the cost of a used 20B makes the cost of an REW far far cheaper.
And if your assumption is that someone allready has a ready to go 20B, then where do you get anywhere near 10K for the install.
Second, have you seen the mount adapters installed, not just a picture?
I had the same negative opinion untill I saw them.
The weight of the engine is resting on the oil pan flange.
I'm not saying they are good, the design is at best OK, but I would say they are usable.
You could have a hot rod shop modify the stock front subframe to take the rew mounts for about 1000 dollars. I know at least 2 places in my city that would do this in about 2 days.
an even cheaper option would be drilling/tapping holes into the rew block to accept the 13b-re/20B style mounts. Or even stock FC mounts (would obviously have to use FC pan/front cover/cas) a machine shop could do this for 200 dollars.
Its not like it hasn't been done before
After the mounts are taken care of, everything about the 13b-rew is easier and cheaper.
The other
I have an easy solution to 13b-rew mounting that would clear any turbo, that I could do for about 300 or less.
I never said anything about BUYING the engine.
It assumes you have the engine in hand.
Yes, the 20B is easier and cheaper to install, period, over a 13B-REW.
You still claim it's wrong?
Again, reread what I said...
This has NOTHING to do with the cost of the engine itself.
All the premade mounts for a 13B-REW install are CRAP.
They do not support the engine directly underneath.
This is a BAD design, period.
This has nothing do with the engine adapters strength.
Read above.
Read above.
Those words are taken direcly from my website.
I've done both a 20B and a 13B-REW into FC chassis'.
I stand by every single word I've said.
-Ted
It assumes you have the engine in hand.
Yes, the 20B is easier and cheaper to install, period, over a 13B-REW.
You still claim it's wrong?
Again, reread what I said...
This has NOTHING to do with the cost of the engine itself.
All the premade mounts for a 13B-REW install are CRAP.
They do not support the engine directly underneath.
This is a BAD design, period.
This has nothing do with the engine adapters strength.
Read above.
Read above.
Those words are taken direcly from my website.
I've done both a 20B and a 13B-REW into FC chassis'.
I stand by every single word I've said.
-Ted
Last edited by slo; 01-27-08 at 01:28 AM.
01-27-08, 02:02 AM
#12
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I agree with Ted, 1000%
Here is the typical mount:
Slo do you see quality welds? You trust that support to the motor? Would you let your child or wife, drive a car with those mounts?
Hell you would be better off drilling new mount holes and use a FC mount if you were too lame to know better and had to put a 13BREW in a FC
Here is the typical mount:
Slo do you see quality welds? You trust that support to the motor? Would you let your child or wife, drive a car with those mounts?
Hell you would be better off drilling new mount holes and use a FC mount if you were too lame to know better and had to put a 13BREW in a FC
I see mig welds, other than the fact that they where not finished (as in cosmeticly) you cannot judge the penetration or strength by looking at a picture.
How much welding do you do?
I mig weld a few times a month, you cannot tell by looking at that picture wether the welds are strong or not.
Second I don't know why you say 'typical' as this is the only picture floating around the net that Ive seen which I believe to be of the prototype.
And the inner portion of the cup rests on the oil pan flange so in compression its supported.
"Would you let your child or wife, drive a car with those mounts?"
This is rediculous, you are judging this product to be poor and unsafe from nothing other than a picture, you havn't even seen it in person.
Have you heard testimony from anyone who has used them stating they are bad?
Now as to if I would personally use them as they are pictured, I can't answer that question from the picture. What I would do is get ahold of them first and see what the welds really look like in person. If the are improperly welded I would re weld them, and I see some opertunities to add some aditional bracing. Perhaps a gusset along the inside.
Then I would buy the steel rew oil pan brace and weld the back of the cup to it and add a few gussets up to the brace from the inside of the cup.
I would even consider tying the cups together with a bar underneith.
What I can say from looking at them is that saftey issues resulting from a head on collision is unlikley, I would be more woried about them bending, and or breaking where the cup is welded to the brace at the gusset. I don't like this part of the design, and I would have brought the brace down under the cup
Last edited by slo; 01-27-08 at 02:24 AM.
01-27-08, 02:33 AM
#13
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one thing no one ever mentions in these threads is the fact that you can use 13b-re irons in an rew engine with no changes/machining. Enabling the ability to use the K2RD style mounts. Such a project kills two birds with one stone. A 13b-re in running condition as a jspec is 1200 dollars any day of the week, A blown rew 1K. Put the 2 together with apropriate new rebuild parts and sell the left overs and you have a street legal engine (if you live in a state where it matters).
This is basicly what I did, but I haven't goten around to doing a real quality rebuild yet.
So there is two fairly easy solutions for the REW without doing anything teribly custom:
1: Drill, taps stock mounts, FC front cover and pan. Or K2RD style mounts, REW front cover and pan.
2: Use RE irons
If you do live in CA for example an REW is the best option. In a form that can pass visual and emissions, you can make 375+ WHP. The PFC option which still controlls all the stock emissions, sequentials, makes this easy.
This is basicly what I did, but I haven't goten around to doing a real quality rebuild yet.
So there is two fairly easy solutions for the REW without doing anything teribly custom:
1: Drill, taps stock mounts, FC front cover and pan. Or K2RD style mounts, REW front cover and pan.
2: Use RE irons
If you do live in CA for example an REW is the best option. In a form that can pass visual and emissions, you can make 375+ WHP. The PFC option which still controlls all the stock emissions, sequentials, makes this easy.
01-27-08, 02:46 AM
#14
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Most people contemplating this don't allready have the engine in hand this assumtion by itself is a fatal flaw.
The fact that you can buy a dead rew longblock for under 1K, and be into a mazda reman for less than the cost of a used 20B makes the cost of an REW far far cheaper.
And if your assumption is that someone allready has a ready to go 20B, then where do you get anywhere near 10K for the install.
The fact that you can buy a dead rew longblock for under 1K, and be into a mazda reman for less than the cost of a used 20B makes the cost of an REW far far cheaper.
And if your assumption is that someone allready has a ready to go 20B, then where do you get anywhere near 10K for the install.
Stop trying to argue otherwise.
I've already explain my context, and all you can do is push your argument on a point that is moot?
Second, have you seen the mount adapters installed, not just a picture?
I had the same negative opinion untill I saw them.
The weight of the engine is resting on the oil pan flange.
I'm not saying they are good, the design is at best OK, but I would say they are usable.
I had the same negative opinion untill I saw them.
The weight of the engine is resting on the oil pan flange.
I'm not saying they are good, the design is at best OK, but I would say they are usable.
This shows your ignorance on the subject.
I'm not talking about where the adapters mate to the engine - I'm talking how those adapters mate to the stock FC engine mounts.
The weight puts a twisting force on the stock FC engine mounts, and this is BAD.
Agreed?
You could have a hot rod shop modify the stock front subframe to take the rew mounts for about 1000 dollars. I know at least 2 places in my city that would do this in about 2 days.
All it takes is some 3" wide, 1/4" thick flat stock that's welded in as another crossmember that support the stock FD3S 13B-REW engine mounts UNDERNEATH, as a proper design engine mount support should be.
I can't ASSUME everyone can do this, and you quoting a ridiculous price of $1,000 already supports my theory that this is not necessarily a "cheap" modification.
<$200 Cosmo engine adapters will drop a 20B right into the FC.
an even cheaper option would be drilling/tapping holes into the rew block to accept the 13b-re/20B style mounts. Or even stock FC mounts (would obviously have to use FC pan/front cover/cas) a machine shop could do this for 200 dollars.
That's debatable.
I've already mentioned the easiest way to do this that uses the stock FD3S 13B-REW engine mounts.
You're assuming everyone has access to a machine shop that can do this job for that price...
Its not like it hasn't been done before
After the mounts are taken care of, everything about the 13b-rew is easier and cheaper.
After the mounts are taken care of, everything about the 13b-rew is easier and cheaper.
A 13BT will produce almost the same power as a 13B-REW.
Easier and cheaper than a 13BT?
Uh, no.
If this was about cheaper and easier, we shouldn't even be talking about 13B-REW's...
You're implying you're going to throw away the stock twin turbos, so basically it ends up being like almost any other turbo 13B in terms of performance.
Why even bother if it's all going to end up being single turbo anyways?
The other
I have an easy solution to 13b-rew mounting that would clear any turbo, that I could do for about 300 or less.
I have an easy solution to 13b-rew mounting that would clear any turbo, that I could do for about 300 or less.
-Ted
01-27-08, 02:56 AM
#15
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one thing no one ever mentions in these threads is the fact that you can use 13b-re irons in an rew engine with no changes/machining. Enabling the ability to use the K2RD style mounts. Such a project kills two birds with one stone. A 13b-re in running condition as a jspec is 1200 dollars any day of the week, A blown rew 1K. Put the 2 together with apropriate new rebuild parts and sell the left overs and you have a street legal engine (if you live in a state where it matters).
And no, the 13B-REW ports do not line up with the 13B-RE ports...specifically the secondaries.
They are like 1/4" off.
You gonna hog metal out just to get the to match?
A blown 13B-REW is hard enough to find...
Most of the Cosmo 13B-RE's are priced around $2,000 to get it shipped to your door.
So, you're already wasting all that money when you could've got a J-spec 13BT that drops right in?
Easier and cheaper?
You're getting colder and colder by the minute.
-Ted
01-27-08, 02:59 AM
#16
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You have no idea what you are talking about.
This shows your ignorance on the subject.
I'm not talking about where the adapters mate to the engine - I'm talking how those adapters mate to the stock FC engine mounts.
The weight puts a twisting force on the stock FC engine mounts, and this is BAD.
Agreed?
This shows your ignorance on the subject.
I'm not talking about where the adapters mate to the engine - I'm talking how those adapters mate to the stock FC engine mounts.
The weight puts a twisting force on the stock FC engine mounts, and this is BAD.
Agreed?
I have know idea what your talking about, the mounts I saw installed egaged the FC rubber mount just like stock, the back of the mount braced against the oil pan to keep it from twisting the stock mount.
Again have you seen them installed?
Granted the ones I saw looked similar but also quite abit different from the ones posted by Mark.
Second, the 1000 dollar labor price I came up with was based on having a shop engineer you a solution. For the actual work done, if you allready know what needs to be done obviouly it would be cheaper. I'm talking about towing the car to a hot rod shop with the engine and letting them do the engineering.
Labor rates where I live are like 75 dollars an hour, they would chage at least 8 hours for something like this probably more like 12.
And finaly yes a 13BT can make allmost as much as an REW, IF its been dowel pinned, and happens to be an S5 with the good rear iron. Same setup on both engines the REW will make more maybe just slightly more but still more.
I did the swap because I live in california, and I am using the twins (soon to be BNR through). My swap is fully smog legal, as long as they don't look for a stock computer when I go to smog.
01-27-08, 03:09 AM
#17
Leah Dizon > Roast Beef
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Just my 2 cents on this but a qualified individual shouldn't have that much trouble making a rew fit. If you aren't skilled enough or too poor to pay someone who is just use a damn 13B-T.
01-27-08, 03:09 AM
#18
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I can get an RE any day of the week for 1200 dollars.
The ports do line up are you taking about the intake manifold needing to be port matched, an idiot can do this in 10 minutes this is nothing unusual for a big streetport that involves porting the runners. I like how you say 'hog out metal' thats funny, ther's plenty of meat there to get a nice port matched manifold. Any machine shop worth there weight in pennies could do this nicley on the cheap.
people put V8's in FD's every month now, a blown REW can be had from any of them. I got a complete engine for 1100 shipped from back east.
The only thing than I would say to diswaid someone from doing this swap is the fact that FD's are so cheap now, and they are fundumentaly better cars. Cheap FD's may be basket cases, but so are most FC's.
Where the hell did you get easier and cheaper, I never said that. I just said that it wasn't hard. It wasn't hard or expensive for me anyways.
I could do it again, better and faster for under 5K.
Ive said all I have to say on this subject.
Tell me another way you could have a california smog legal FC making 375 WHP, that still involves a rotary engine.
The ports do line up are you taking about the intake manifold needing to be port matched, an idiot can do this in 10 minutes this is nothing unusual for a big streetport that involves porting the runners. I like how you say 'hog out metal' thats funny, ther's plenty of meat there to get a nice port matched manifold. Any machine shop worth there weight in pennies could do this nicley on the cheap.
people put V8's in FD's every month now, a blown REW can be had from any of them. I got a complete engine for 1100 shipped from back east.
The only thing than I would say to diswaid someone from doing this swap is the fact that FD's are so cheap now, and they are fundumentaly better cars. Cheap FD's may be basket cases, but so are most FC's.
Where the hell did you get easier and cheaper, I never said that. I just said that it wasn't hard. It wasn't hard or expensive for me anyways.
I could do it again, better and faster for under 5K.
Ive said all I have to say on this subject.
Tell me another way you could have a california smog legal FC making 375 WHP, that still involves a rotary engine.
Stop changing the subject...
And no, the 13B-REW ports do not line up with the 13B-RE ports...specifically the secondaries.
They are like 1/4" off.
You gonna hog metal out just to get the to match?
A blown 13B-REW is hard enough to find...
Most of the Cosmo 13B-RE's are priced around $2,000 to get it shipped to your door.
So, you're already wasting all that money when you could've got a J-spec 13BT that drops right in?
Easier and cheaper?
You're getting colder and colder by the minute.
-Ted
And no, the 13B-REW ports do not line up with the 13B-RE ports...specifically the secondaries.
They are like 1/4" off.
You gonna hog metal out just to get the to match?
A blown 13B-REW is hard enough to find...
Most of the Cosmo 13B-RE's are priced around $2,000 to get it shipped to your door.
So, you're already wasting all that money when you could've got a J-spec 13BT that drops right in?
Easier and cheaper?
You're getting colder and colder by the minute.
-Ted
Last edited by slo; 01-27-08 at 03:22 AM.
01-27-08, 04:13 AM
#19
Leah Dizon > Roast Beef
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I'm sidding with Ted and Mark on this one. While I still think it's very doable to drop a rew in an FC it's just not worth it compared to the other options.
01-27-08, 04:32 AM
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Except for Ted, he's always right, or so he thinks......
IMO this thread has been beat to death.
01-27-08, 06:37 AM
#21
what's with all the FAIL in these threads these days?
Glad to see you gave up Slo. Post your write up if you disagree with the FAQs or send it to a MOD and have them replace it.
I don't know why you all spent so much time arguing stupid **** that could have been found SEARCHING.
Glad to see you gave up Slo. Post your write up if you disagree with the FAQs or send it to a MOD and have them replace it.
I don't know why you all spent so much time arguing stupid **** that could have been found SEARCHING.
01-27-08, 12:29 PM
#22
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It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that load forces are BAD on those mounts.
Got common sense?
You do realize that the engine rotates and the trans does move up and down, right?
You got pics of them installed?
Cause I can't see them being installed any other way but BAD.
Granted the ones I saw looked similar but also quite abit different from the ones posted by Mark.
Second, the 1000 dollar labor price I came up with was based on having a shop engineer you a solution. For the actual work done, if you allready know what needs to be done obviouly it would be cheaper. I'm talking about towing the car to a hot rod shop with the engine and letting them do the engineering.
Labor rates where I live are like 75 dollars an hour, they would chage at least 8 hours for something like this probably more like 12.
Labor rates where I live are like 75 dollars an hour, they would chage at least 8 hours for something like this probably more like 12.
And finaly yes a 13BT can make allmost as much as an REW, IF its been dowel pinned, and happens to be an S5 with the good rear iron. Same setup on both engines the REW will make more maybe just slightly more but still more.
Unless we're talking about 600hp+, dowel pinning is just insurance against bad tuning.
I would never try and build a 600hp 13B...too high strung.
I did the swap because I live in california, and I am using the twins (soon to be BNR through). My swap is fully smog legal, as long as they don't look for a stock computer when I go to smog.
I don't care about smog.
This swap is a waste of time, IMNSHO.
Technically, you're breaking the law there if you're not using all the stock FD3S emissions equipment, which includes the stock ECU.
-Ted
01-27-08, 12:42 PM
#23
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Does that mean the rest of us can?
Dude, stop dropping all of this I-can-get-this-for-X-amount-of-dollars crap, cause it's not really helpful for the rest of us.
You assuming a lot of things...
Again, stop assuming.
Tell that to the guys down here in Hawaii?
Cheap?
Most "decent" FD's sell for over $10k here.
Fundamentally better?
Bullshit.
That's a whole new argument there...
BTW, it's "dissuade".
I believe you're the one that said this in post #8:
What the faq says is wrong, Saying that its easier and cheaper to put a 20B in is a joke, its far cheaper to do a 13b-rew
Rebuilding a 13B isn't hard for me either.
It doesn't mean it's not hard for everyone else.
Don't assume.
Again, unless you're prepared to do this for the rest of us, your arguments are moot.
It's really getting irritating that you like to claim "I can do this for this much (cheap)" and "It was easy for me to do this (mod)".
Don't ever assuming everyone else has the same resources and same level of competency.
I can do that with a 13BT running a hybrid.
So what's your point?
I don't live in California, so why do I have to restrict myself to such nonsense?
You're that one that has to deal with it.
-Ted
Dude, stop dropping all of this I-can-get-this-for-X-amount-of-dollars crap, cause it's not really helpful for the rest of us.
The ports do line up are you taking about the intake manifold needing to be port matched, an idiot can do this in 10 minutes this is nothing unusual for a big streetport that involves porting the runners. I like how you say 'hog out metal' thats funny, ther's plenty of meat there to get a nice port matched manifold. Any machine shop worth there weight in pennies could do this nicley on the cheap.
people put V8's in FD's every month now, a blown REW can be had from any of them. I got a complete engine for 1100 shipped from back east.
Tell that to the guys down here in Hawaii?
The only thing than I would say to diswaid someone from doing this swap is the fact that FD's are so cheap now, and they are fundumentaly better cars. Cheap FD's may be basket cases, but so are most FC's.
Most "decent" FD's sell for over $10k here.
Fundamentally better?
Bullshit.
That's a whole new argument there...
BTW, it's "dissuade".
Where the hell did you get easier and cheaper, I never said that. I just said that it wasn't hard. It wasn't hard or expensive for me anyways.
What the faq says is wrong, Saying that its easier and cheaper to put a 20B in is a joke, its far cheaper to do a 13b-rew
Rebuilding a 13B isn't hard for me either.
It doesn't mean it's not hard for everyone else.
Don't assume.
I could do it again, better and faster for under 5K.
Ive said all I have to say on this subject.
Ive said all I have to say on this subject.
It's really getting irritating that you like to claim "I can do this for this much (cheap)" and "It was easy for me to do this (mod)".
Don't ever assuming everyone else has the same resources and same level of competency.
Tell me another way you could have a california smog legal FC making 375 WHP, that still involves a rotary engine.
So what's your point?
I don't live in California, so why do I have to restrict myself to such nonsense?
You're that one that has to deal with it.
-Ted
01-27-08, 02:42 PM
#24
Rotary Freak
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Not to get into the pissing contest I did this swap a couple months ago.
I used a 13bt front cover ,oilpan,and had the center Iron drilled and tapped, as well as fabricate a stronger drivers side mount.
I also sucessfuly managed to Blow an apex seal trying to tune it.
Oh In using a microtech that was on mt 13bt before.
I just got a housing so I should be back up in a couple weeks,
And Ted I stole a quote from you for my sig
Johny
I used a 13bt front cover ,oilpan,and had the center Iron drilled and tapped, as well as fabricate a stronger drivers side mount.
I also sucessfuly managed to Blow an apex seal trying to tune it.
Oh In using a microtech that was on mt 13bt before.
I just got a housing so I should be back up in a couple weeks,
And Ted I stole a quote from you for my sig
Johny
