what's involved in a 13b rew swap
look in the FSM wiring diagrams for both cars. Seriously this would be really easy to do, I made it run on the stock ecu which was pretty hard because of all of the CEL's from the many different error conditions, virtually all of which result in a partial or full limp mode, but the PFC has none of this.
a short list of tips:
Get a GM 3 bar map (the kind most ems's use) and the proper plug. Its better than the stock map sensor, and you will need to run the wiring for the map anyways because its separate from the engine harness (part of the FD's chassis harness).
Get an extra lead ignitor (FC) and wire it up off the trail 2 ignition signal wire. A PFC won't run the ignition toggle of the factory coils. leave the trail igniter in place, it will just only be hooked up to one coil instead of 2 (number 1). The toggle wire can be used as the second signal wire. Lead ignition can stay just how it is.
Avoid the FD stock ignition, it isn't as good as the FC setup.
Re wire the fuel pump with a fresh brand new solenoid, so it see's full voltage all the time
get rid of as much of the emissions crap as you can. Very little is actual required to simply pass smog tests, much of it is there to reduce warm up emissions. If you do need to pass smog, leave the ACV, the various wires that connect to it, get a 95 model us or JDM lim (has no EGR) or block off your egr port, and get rid of all of the other solenoids that don't actually control the ACV and don't run a pre cat (it won't fit anyways).
The 50 dollar ebay 3 in downpipes, make a great starting point for a custom exhaust, I added a universal cat and a flex joint to one, and it perfectly connected to my racing beat turbo back at the pre muffler.
Basically the PFC will connect to all of the plugs on the stock ecu, from there it gets its ground, you give it power from the stock FC chassis harness, and another power wire that turns it on, there is one thats energized when cranking (these three correspond exactly to wires with the same functions on the FD stock or PFC)
Then there is three wires that go to the igniter's one for lead and 2.
Then run three separate wires for the map sensor and your done.
If you need more detail when your doing it PM me.
a short list of tips:
Get a GM 3 bar map (the kind most ems's use) and the proper plug. Its better than the stock map sensor, and you will need to run the wiring for the map anyways because its separate from the engine harness (part of the FD's chassis harness).
Get an extra lead ignitor (FC) and wire it up off the trail 2 ignition signal wire. A PFC won't run the ignition toggle of the factory coils. leave the trail igniter in place, it will just only be hooked up to one coil instead of 2 (number 1). The toggle wire can be used as the second signal wire. Lead ignition can stay just how it is.
Avoid the FD stock ignition, it isn't as good as the FC setup.
Re wire the fuel pump with a fresh brand new solenoid, so it see's full voltage all the time
get rid of as much of the emissions crap as you can. Very little is actual required to simply pass smog tests, much of it is there to reduce warm up emissions. If you do need to pass smog, leave the ACV, the various wires that connect to it, get a 95 model us or JDM lim (has no EGR) or block off your egr port, and get rid of all of the other solenoids that don't actually control the ACV and don't run a pre cat (it won't fit anyways).
The 50 dollar ebay 3 in downpipes, make a great starting point for a custom exhaust, I added a universal cat and a flex joint to one, and it perfectly connected to my racing beat turbo back at the pre muffler.
Basically the PFC will connect to all of the plugs on the stock ecu, from there it gets its ground, you give it power from the stock FC chassis harness, and another power wire that turns it on, there is one thats energized when cranking (these three correspond exactly to wires with the same functions on the FD stock or PFC)
Then there is three wires that go to the igniter's one for lead and 2.
Then run three separate wires for the map sensor and your done.
If you need more detail when your doing it PM me.
Last edited by slo; Jan 28, 2008 at 02:42 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: USA
Looking for info on the stock harness, I would also check out 3rd gen section.
Why don't we put the following in the FAQ since, really, I can't think of why anyone would think of swapping it in any other way.
"Buy a piece of 2" wide, 1/4" thick, flat steel stock. Weld it in between the rear section of your engine cradle. Drill to allow mounting the REW."
Done, crack a cold one.
"Buy a piece of 2" wide, 1/4" thick, flat steel stock. Weld it in between the rear section of your engine cradle. Drill to allow mounting the REW."
Done, crack a cold one.
Thread Starter
i say deez , you say doze
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: lost in south carolina
just bought a j-spec 13bt - rew , tranny and the ecu is uncut. engine mount's from www.motivefab.com
chris
chris
im rising this thread from the dead.
and here is my situation-
guy i know is leaving the country and is only taking his running fd as a SHELL which means he is leaving behind all the goodies and i get everything including drivetrain.
i have a NA chassi so i need the fd tranni and diff what problems am i going to run into mounting the drivetrain and what sensors and wiring should i remember to take. plus i will be running the apexi power fc.
im doing this no matter what so please help me while leaving out the (shoulda wouldas) because this is what i have and it has to work
and here is my situation-
guy i know is leaving the country and is only taking his running fd as a SHELL which means he is leaving behind all the goodies and i get everything including drivetrain.
i have a NA chassi so i need the fd tranni and diff what problems am i going to run into mounting the drivetrain and what sensors and wiring should i remember to take. plus i will be running the apexi power fc.
im doing this no matter what so please help me while leaving out the (shoulda wouldas) because this is what i have and it has to work
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Hamiltron, New Zealand
-rew conversion
I am 90% through the -rew engine conversion and it has cost me thousands.
All the fabrication work I did myself but just buying all the bits and pieces, to make the FC chassis - FD engine compatible, has cost a lot of money.
Unless you can do all the fabrication and wiring youself I don't know if it would be worth it.
But why would you use an FD motor over an FC motor?
All the fabrication work I did myself but just buying all the bits and pieces, to make the FC chassis - FD engine compatible, has cost a lot of money.
Unless you can do all the fabrication and wiring youself I don't know if it would be worth it.
But why would you use an FD motor over an FC motor?
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut
And the off the shelf mounts that you mention should not be anything that anyone really considers, as every single one I have seen looks like they were made by a guy in his back garage that never took even a class in welding, and will not hold the engine in place in the event of a front end accident, allowing it to travel back and into the passenger compartment. Because of the way they support, they are a bad bad design.
You have no idea what you are talking about.
This shows your ignorance on the subject.
All it takes is some 3" wide, 1/4" thick flat stock that's welded in as another crossmember that support the stock FD3S 13B-REW engine mounts UNDERNEATH, as a proper design engine mount support should be.
-Ted
This shows your ignorance on the subject.
All it takes is some 3" wide, 1/4" thick flat stock that's welded in as another crossmember that support the stock FD3S 13B-REW engine mounts UNDERNEATH, as a proper design engine mount support should be.
-Ted
Not to mention that I would rather have the Motivefab mount which I think are garbage over a 3" 1/4" piece of steel. That is retarded. That is such a frickin' weak design it is really laughable. The right thing to do would be do build it out of square stock or rectangle stock with round tubes welded in to bolt to the motor. A 1/4 plate won't support jack. My 160lb *** BENT 1/8" flat stock that I used to build seat brackets for. I had to step it up to 3/16 and I bet that's a little bent as well. You're talking about solidly mounting a 500lb + pound motor with 1/4"?? What a joke.
just bought a j-spec 13bt - rew , tranny and the ecu is uncut. engine mount's from www.motivefab.com
chris
chris
I am 90% through the -rew engine conversion and it has cost me thousands.
All the fabrication work I did myself but just buying all the bits and pieces, to make the FC chassis - FD engine compatible, has cost a lot of money.
Unless you can do all the fabrication and wiring youself I don't know if it would be worth it.
But why would you use an FD motor over an FC motor?
All the fabrication work I did myself but just buying all the bits and pieces, to make the FC chassis - FD engine compatible, has cost a lot of money.
Unless you can do all the fabrication and wiring youself I don't know if it would be worth it.
But why would you use an FD motor over an FC motor?
Fabrication is key to cool projects. You guys want some ideas? I pm'ed alot with some of these guys over here to come up with some ideas. http://forum.teamfc3s.org./showthrea...&highlight=rew
way better than the motive fab mounts. And YES ted, to hire a shop to do something like that would cost thousands.
-B
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Hamiltron, New Zealand
Mounts
Show us yer ****!!! errrrrr mounts rather.
Fabrication is key to cool projects. You guys want some ideas? I pm'ed alot with some of these guys over here to come up with some ideas. http://forum.teamfc3s.org./showthrea...&highlight=rew
way better than the motive fab mounts. And YES ted, to hire a shop to do something like that would cost thousands.
-B
Fabrication is key to cool projects. You guys want some ideas? I pm'ed alot with some of these guys over here to come up with some ideas. http://forum.teamfc3s.org./showthrea...&highlight=rew
way better than the motive fab mounts. And YES ted, to hire a shop to do something like that would cost thousands.
-B
For the L/H mount I drilled and tapped existing holes on the side of the centre plate so that the mount picked up much the same as how it does from factory on an FC. Then I fabricated a basic bracket to suit.
Hard to see in the picture but it gives you an idea
I drilled and tapped the FD centre plate to accept the factory FC R/H engine mount(running a modified FC sump).
For the L/H mount I drilled and tapped existing holes on the side of the centre plate so that the mount picked up much the same as how it does from factory on an FC. Then I fabricated a basic bracket to suit.
Hard to see in the picture but it gives you an idea
For the L/H mount I drilled and tapped existing holes on the side of the centre plate so that the mount picked up much the same as how it does from factory on an FC. Then I fabricated a basic bracket to suit.
Hard to see in the picture but it gives you an idea
The left side will work with a little fabbing but I had a new one made.
Im using the FC pan fron cover and cas.
I think having a stand alone ems and single turbo eliminates some of the headache.
