guys, i have to rebuild my TII S5 due to an apex seal failure on the front rotor!

i have an FD shortblock on hand from a colleague, that has the same damage, can get it for about 300 bucks!

question: wich one should i rebuild? is it reasonable to rebuild the FD block (bigger intake ports, many internal improvements) and mount the rest peripheral parts (manifolds, injectors, waterpump, ...) of my FC? would my parts even work or fit this FD block??

please help... need to contact the guy soon!

 

It is concievable that you could build a frankenstiened engine with good results. to mount t he FC lim on the FD block you would need to make an adapter plate. You would probably need to push the turbo out some so that it would still clear the lim (maybe) depending on how wide the lim was.

What I would look at doing, is build an engine with the FD end housings, 13b-rew rotor housings (so you would need to get one), the rotars are the same for both engines. A T2 intermindiate housing (so you can use stock mounts), T2 oil pan, T2 front cover, and a 13b-rew intake manifolds, and whatever turbo floats your boat.

 

ok, so mounting points for the FC lim to the FD block are differents?
i'm using a BNR hybrid so turbo spacing is no issue

i only have a shortblock FD at hand, meaning everything between the front and rear housing without any peripherals!

maybe i misunderstood you: you suggest to use all the rew housings right (front, intermediate, rear, rotor housings)? 'cause then, oil pan length would be an issue i think!

ans the rotors are the same??? that would be nice, 'cause with both engines i'll have at least 2 good rotors (no need to buy a new one)!!

 

yep... the mounting points are different for the 13brew... that is why they suggested to use the housings from a jc 13brew b/c at least then you will only need the mount adapter to make it work.

 

slo: oups, overread that!

so the TII intermediate would be a compromise, i think the TII anyway have slightly bigger primary ports

but are there any internal issues, as of rotors (same/different), e-shaft, ...? are the clearances all the same FC/FD?

 

personally.... you'd be better off just purchasing a rotor,housing, and any other damaged parts..and rebuild/streetport the s5 motor.... all the work you would do making a frakenstein motor and reep very little rewards..... basically, the e-shaft is the same, the rotors are the same.. the only real difference are the housings, which if you streetport yours, youd have just as much, if not more port.....

and you can swap fd corner seal springs into a fc motor.. since that is the only real big seal difference..everything else is basically the same...so just do a s5 rebuild, and save yourself all the headaches

 

okok... hmm, just read the FD was an overall stronger an better performing block...

so the rotors are identical?? even the mouldings? if so, purchasing the FD block would be worth it, 'cause one rotor is ok, so i wouldn't have to buy one for 600$!!
am i wrong?

 

pretty sure you need more work than just the mounts if you're going to drop a rew in, less I'm horribly confused with midterms

 

it's not a rew-swap! it's just the SHORTBLOCK 13b of an FD, all the rest rests FC!!

any other opinions?

 

my bad, just mind's just bit occupied trying to understand linear algebra, but I doubt you're going to get much gains with the rew block rather than 13-bt, so in the end I think it would come down to ease of assembly and cost.

 

nevermind
why wouldn't you think there are advantages? 'cause as far as budget is concerned, the rew rebuild is not essentially more expensive! so why go 13bt?

 

Why go through all the effort using the FD block and dealing with the associated mounting hassles? The S5 already has the stronger castings in the rear iron, and bolts right in. Just port it, bolt it back in the car and you're done...

 

i understand, but are the following advantages not worth the expense:

- bigger intake ports
- larger oil bypass/crank pulley bolt
- larger front-end thrust bearings (->reduction of the chance of the eccentric shaft bending at the front section)
- 32% less friction on surface of housings
- water passage machined around the spark plug areas
- stationary gears are factory hardened and "3 window-type" bearing
- ...

found on http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/BTvsBREW.html

sounds great to me

 

You could actually use everything out of the REW except the irons, streetport the T2 irons, and sell the REW irons. That would seem to make sense, as you need a rotor and rotor housing anyways.

 

I say go for the FD. I think you could push more out of it.

The mounting brackets for it aren't that expensive either.

I can't find the site right now, but the mounting hardware was like $200. Not that bad to put the engine in. I think you would need a different wiring harness though and computer.

 

stop typing, your thinking of the 13B-RE not the 13B-REW
their is no 13B-REW mount kit.

 

actually there is a 13b-rew off the shelf mount adapters:

http://www.motivefab.com/product_inf...c27cf24d431a0a

 

Port your existing irons.

So?

Have you ever bent an eccentric shaft? Me neither...Doesn't really happen unless you are talking about a high RPM application and even in that case it will be the middle of the shaft that bends.

Cool...But most people believe this coating wears off quickly during use.

You can do the same thing with a Dremel tool.

Buy the three window bearings and have your stationary gears machined for them. Mine cost $40 to have done. Or buy the whole assembly with 3 window bearings and hardened gears from RB...

 

impresive, has anyone bought them yet?

 

Those mounts are disturbing. The welds appear to have very poor penetration, and it places the weight of the engine way too far in front of the stock mounts. This will cause the stock mounts to lean forward and shear under high load...

 

How can you tell how much penetration the welds have from that picture? It looks more like whoever welded them went over each bead a couple of times building it up. Its not the best looking welds.

I saw a picture of them installed on no pistons. IIRC the cup for the stock mount makes contact with the oil pan lip, which must be ground down, transfering the weight to about the center of the engine, once mounted, so the mount adapteres are only stressed when rocking away from the mount.

I'm sure it could be done better, but I think that would work.

 

guys i've been to my friends house yesterday and made some comparisons of the two blocks:

- rew intake runners are 30% larger and built much higher up the housings
- even if my lim would bolt that high, it wouldn't cover the emission crap whole in the intermediate housing of the rew
-bolt locations are slightly different
- no plug and play for the primaries, rew uses different ones
-...

conclusion: like Aaron cake suggested i'll go 13bt with the internals of the rew; the healty rotor, stationary gears, maybe excentric shaft (rew block has half the mileage of my 13bt), the rear plate of my 13bt is already the reinforced one with thicker coating around the dowel pins. i'll do some porting to the size of the rew's ports (maybe slightly more)

i think that would be a reasonable build up... right?

 

If you loook at the fillet welds securing the 90 degree sections that mount to the stock mounts, you can see a small area between the metal and the bead where the bead has formed a "ball" above the metal and the bead is undercut. You can tell by looking at the shadows. This is a classic sign of poor penetration on a fillet weld. If you were to section the weld, you will find that the weld appears to be a "mushroom head" between the junction of the two metals. Only minor surface penetration takes place.

 

besides all scepticism about the welds themselves, the mounting angle wich is provided by this setup will be the main problem!
imaging the whole longblock sitting on these mounts plus additional twist of the block when accelerating -> these mounts are prone to shear away!