2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

cant keep flywheel still!

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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 06:21 PM
  #26  
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Heres a scan of the directions:
Attached Thumbnails cant keep flywheel still!-flywheel-nut-directions.jpg  
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #27  
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A search for "flywheel removal" will probably answer every question in this thread...However...

To remove the flywheel, pry from the back with a pry bar while someone smacks the face with a small sledge hammer. Use a block of wood to protect the flywheel if you intend to reuse it. Generally this removes it in one blow.

To torque the nut, apply red Loctite to the threads, silicone sealant to the face of the nut that goes against the flywheel, then torque to 150 Ft-LBS. Then using an impact wrench (actual size basically irrevelant as long as it can move the nut...) turn it another 60 degrees, which is the distance from one point on the nut to another.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 11:13 AM
  #28  
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Ive allways used a puller to get the flywheel/counter weight off. Its just a piece of thick steel with two holes drilled into it for the bolts on the counterweight/flywheel, tighten the bolts with the flywheel nut prtly screweed on to protect the threads and it pops right off.



* replace the needle bearings/thrust washers if you use the big f'n hammer method.

Last edited by drago86; Jul 18, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 11:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
Heres a scan of the directions:

That's the way I've been doing it. It falls under *Common Sense*. I don't think its applicable for a engine in the car though. No room to step on the handle.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #30  
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The easy way to remove the flywheel is to use the bolt holes that are in the stock flywheel.
Use 2 thin pieces of steel behind where the the bolt will come though to protect the seal on the other side.
Tighten both bolts and then hit it with a rubber mallet, it'll pop right off.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #31  
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If you under-torque to 270 or over-torque to 340 (examples), what are the repurcussions?
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:26 PM
  #32  
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beat the **** out of it around the outside edge. also be sure to keep the flywheel nut on by a few threads to keep the heavy as hell flywheel from falling onto your head/hands/feet/other body parts.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 03:32 PM
  #33  
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I did just what karak said. I used a hard rubber mallet and whacked it good and hard all the way around the ouside.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
That's the way I've been doing it. It falls under *Common Sense*. I don't think its applicable for a engine in the car though. No room to step on the handle.
If you can't stand on it, use a bathroom scale. For example, if you have a two foot handle, rest the handle on the scale and push or pull until the scale reads 150 lbs. Or, whatever, depending on the length of your wrench handle. Torque = force (weight) x distance.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by buttsjim
If you can't stand on it, use a bathroom scale. For example, if you have a two foot handle, rest the handle on the scale and push or pull until the scale reads 150 lbs. Or, whatever, depending on the length of your wrench handle. Torque = force (weight) x distance.
What the ****, why didn't I think of that.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:48 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
What the ****, why didn't I think of that.
I work late at night, and usually drink a few beers. Most people say that necessity is the mother of invention, but few know that beer is the daddy.

Last edited by buttsjim; Jul 19, 2006 at 08:50 AM.
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