I have had my Fd since May 21 04 and haven't posted any pics of the car or the mods I have done. I bought the car bone stock with a 2500 mile reman and new clutch. The interior is a hair below average for a 1993 w/ 85K. First thing I did was take off the exhaust, inspect it, and then wallow out the pre cat. Then I flushed the cooling system and added Redline. The first oil change, I swithed to semi syn. the second oil change I am now running Mobil 1 syn. I have already replaced the primary turbo cartridge with a used one...mine, the compressor chipped and broke the turbine off from wobbling.

Other mods follow with pics:

NHK 6-way engine damper (I made the mounts for it)

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg



I lowered it with some JDM KYB "gearclimb" shock/spring combo and added a temporary 2.5" catback with free muffler from friend



Then I added H.I.D. headlights

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg



Then I got a used JDM Apexi' boost gauge (mid 90's I think...cool, because it matches well)



Then I got a greddy turbo timer

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg



Then I did the rat's nest and removed the air pump

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg



Then I installed a MOMO seat (I modified the stock seat sliders to work, perfect)



Then I got an Efini Y-pipe and the Blitz SUS intake kit w/ polished hards pipes too (sounds way cool...sometimes next to semis I can't tell if i'm spoolin or them =) I am going to figure out a way to make a cold air box around the filters and try a lexan top...because they are so beautiful!!



I just won these beauties on ebay and should be her in a week or so.
ARC dual BOV's for FD...they run $680 new...I hope they sound good. I want to port the inlets so they flow better.




I also bought this suede racing wheel, but I still have to get the hub and mount it.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg



I recently finished my new H.I.D. sleepy-eye mod that operates up and down normally.




My JDM bumper should be here shortly, and should be installed painted by the end of winter I hope. I am going to try making the front air vent a cold air induction for intake and IC I think. I am also thinking of machining a vent(s) in the beautiful stock hood....maybe.



I also just put some 225/50 16 Falken GRB FK-451 tires on...i get a hook up on Toyo and Falken, and these are awesome street tires for the money! Basically as good as the T1-S, but a good bit cheaper.

Next I am going to up the boost to 12-13 psi with a ball/spring MBC for the winter and work on a water injection system for next summer.

I need toe-links and a short shifter, and would love some 18" wheels and 99' 280hp twins.

I want this car to handle awesome and make 300-350 rwhp, listen to the stock bose, and ride around town sequentially with the sunroof open. FD love!!

 

how are thos H.I.D's?

 

LOL Ummmm....See the Yellow/Orange ballast boxes to the right and left sides, that operate High Intensity Discharge Bulbs??.....

 

Maybe he was talking about this photo of your previous HID kit.

I too wondered why you called these HID's, because from the picture, the lights look a little yellow, kinda like regular halogen lights.

 

Yeah, they are the more whiteish colored lights than the blue/purple. They look blue/yellow in the day and really white/sky blue at night. Mainly, it is just the photo that makes it look like that.

 

i like you sleepy lights(obscene compliment), HID's are cool. got write up on that?

 

Man... does the HID's make a real lot of difference??? I have the C-west light kit and it seems a little too dark for my taste.

 

Cool !!! I Like

 

Cool indeed. You have been a rotary owner just a couple of day afte me.

So far you did a very cool job. Mine had an engine change and rebuild(before I bought it) I completed the runnign in and already reserviced her. New Tyres and wheel should come this weel. Installed a metering pump. Had 3 rose joints replaced plus and the sparking plugs. Next in line should be the downpipe and gauges with the next service and before that some more body paint.

My complimets a very good looking car. It is just the front lip that I would change with the stock one. My preference only though.

 

I'd like to see a detailed install of those sleepy lights What housing is that?
BTW, the car looks great.

 

wow ive never seen a torque brace mounted where you have yours

 

So Synthetic oil is considered good in an FD now? New to me.



Generally only people i know that do this run the rotary aviation rpm converted MOP with a resevor for 2 cycle oil.

 

most of the tiem there on the back of the manfold wehre the lift hook is no ?

 

i like to know about the sleepy eye look also.

 

how did you limit the lights from going up all the way?

 

I hope you didn't pay much for those...

 

Just $2, they suck anyways, I mean blow hot air...

 

The headlight mod is easy to figure out if you just remove the motor assembly. it is too hard to explain and it is a trial and error method to get it at the height you want and then have the lights angled.

The housings are from some Infinity...

 

I don't see why not. Synthetic is just more less prone to breakdown and burn off. Is it bad to have "LESS" oil-bake in the chambers, in the turbos, in the oil pickup screen?? Is it bad to have unburnt oil mist in the exhaust cycle??

Most things about syn oil are rumors and myths....for ANY vehicle. You can change back and forth, and you can change to syn anytime you want....after break in. It has been recommended to not use Mobil one during break-in (because it "MAY" hamper friction), but I am pretty darn sure Corvettes, porsches, etc...use it straight from the assembley line. I think the reason is that engines now-a-days have a much shorter break-in period, because tolerances are a good bit tighter than yesteryear. Parts are made much more closer to spec.

I figure break the rotary in good and get good seal, since that is the most important part of the rotary engine.

 

sounds like you really don't want anyone else having those headlights.....You aren't very specific about the details haha.

 

1234,

could you comment on your headlights. Wael's mod still causes the headlights to travel their full extent. That is, when you turn them on, they will be in the "sleepy" position. But when off, they still fully extend up then down. Are you saying that your modification doesn't do this?

 

Yes, you could run synthetic oil on a rotary without damaging the engine.I didn't know either but i asked mazdatrix or racing beat at a sevenstock and they told me that you could.On the older engines you couldn't because i think they said that your apex seals would expand something like that but on the newer engine it is possible.

 

Don't like the sleepy eyes. As for the HID's....it was asked if they make a difference...um, yeah.

 

No that is not true about older engines. they all use iron seals..

The way i've seen it that was recommend is that you can run it with an RPM based oil metering pump from rotary aviation. The oil metering pump is the pump that injects oil into the rotor housing to help lubricate the Apex seals.

This way you get the best of both worlds.. you get to run 2cycle which is meant to be burnt. And you can run synthetic without worry of it being injected and burnt.


I have had experience with loosing an engine due to synthetic. It can cause problems.

 

Not trying to hate...

but I don't see why it would be bad to not burn the oil mist in the chamber. It will just get pushed out the exhaust anyway. Plus, it may continue to lubricate the seal through the exhaust cycle...if there is any mist left.

How could you be sure that your the engine went because of synthetic oil?? I don't think there would be evidence.

Eager to know of any factful info on "syn rotor death!!" =) hehe