Thanks, for clearing that up for me.I didn't really remember what they told me this was about 2 or 3 years ago but i thought they had told me something about the seals.

 

I am not saying it will kill your rotary. I'm mostly saying that you can convert to RPM based using 2 cycle for ~$100. If you really want synthetic, it may be a good investment to not have to worry if there really is a problem or not. My old car was not ready to die and in very good shape before using synthetic. but it had not been run hard in awhile. I was young and didnt know any better and put synthetic in it. And after that oil change the seals would stick in the rotor groves. And there was no evidence of this happening before.

Thats what happened. Decide for yourself.

 

are those lights off the Infinity QX4?? I was walking by one yesterday and looked at a part of the light which looked like yours.

 

Yeah I like those lights too. Either tell us how to or prepare for war!

 

LOL.... I WILL NEVA TELL!!!



Onward CHARGE!!



Rawwwwwwwwrrrrrrrr!!

 

Seriously, I don't remember which one it was.

My friend works at a body shop and he got them from a wrecked car. The rest of the housing was broken.

 

Bs

 

Why in the world would you "port the inlets" of those blow off valves?

Why do you think those are needed on the stock turbos anyway?

 

The reason I want to port the inlets a little is because thay are actually a tad bit smaller I.D. than the stock valves. I love the sound of them, and they look cool.

One of those had to have them things....


I just want to port the base inlets...not the valves themselves. they are smaller than they look. The BOV outlets I.D. are the size of a quarter basically

 

Fair enough, but do you understand what a BOV does?

 

LOL, are you kidding me??

they vent turbo pressure when the throttle blade closes. That way the boost back-pressure doesn't put strain on the turbo shaft, bearings, seals, blades etc.

it also keeps them spinning freely so that you have boost response when you apply throttle again.

 

Ok, sounds like you do.
I just felt that if you knew what they did, you wouldn't think that you particularly needed those while using the stock twins.
On top of that, I can't imagine that porting them would be of any constructive benefit.

Basically all a BOV does is break a seal, much like a needle popping a balloon. The only reason to "upgrade" is to obtain a BOV that that will ostensibly seal better and close faster.

I am just at a loss to understand why people modify the BOV (on stock turbos) and was curious what your reasoning was.

 

I want enough airflow through them during the short time they are open. It would give a faster response out of them. The holes that the hose attaches to is actually a little smaller than stock. I need it the same size, if not a hair bit bigger.

I am ready to run 12-13 psi and I want my old turbos to last as long as they can at the upped boost level.

 

All that rice and not even a downpipe?

 

best sleepy light kit yet. I am not very familiar with the setup of HID lights, so forgive me. How hard was it to hook them up to the rx7, and can you point me to any resources that particularly discuss instillation of HID kits (such as the infinity ones you have) in to a stock vehicle.

 

http://static.worldnow.com/nctd/imag...initiqx4-4.jpg

 

I am a bit confused
I have been thinking of puting H4 Hi/Low hids on my stock headlight housings - have you done this ? If so, does it have enough clearance at the back (c. 6 cm?)
Thanks

 

I don't think their are any H4 Hi/Low HIDs, unlike H4 light bulbs that have two filaments, one for high and one for low. HID light bulbs have only one "filament".


Gil

 

There is a company that makes a high/low HID bulb. (I'm at work so I'll post the site that has them tonight when I get home).
Basically it has a shield that limits the angle of the light discharging off of the bulb for Low beams, then when you kick on the High beams, the shield retracts allowing the light to hit all of the reflector. Might not be as good as a dedicated, independant high and low beam with separate reflector assemblies, but nice nonetheless.

 

It's the housing that provides the high/low beam patterns, not the bulb.

Commonly called "Bi-Xenon". An HID bulb with both high- and low-beam does not exist, to my knowledge.

 

 

He said in the first post that he 'wallowed out' the stock precat. I'm assuming that is an attempt at a downpipe.




For the person who asked about the 'sleepy eye how-to' , it's been posted, and is linked in the FAQ page:

Headlight motor mod / sleepy eyes
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/how-sleepy-headlights-3rd-gen-351136/





1234rotor, I'm also very interested in your headlights. Have you got any photos to show how well it illuminates the road?

-s-

 

The HID's are called a Bi-Xenon as Jim corrected me on, and they are available from HIDexpress.com
http://www.hidexpress.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=13

The bulbs that I am referring to on HIDexpress' site, have a small shield that retracts into the body of the headlight bulb assembly. This would then allow the light to shine onto a part of the reflector that it could not shine onto, when the shield was "up" or in the low beam position, then giving a "high" beam, or at least more light output.

And as Jim stated, the reflector is the controlling factor that defines the beam pattern. But what happens when you only have 1 reflector assembly (As with the rx7), but you do have a high and low beam operation? Is it simply more light output but the same beam pattern for high and low?

Jim - I certainly am not trying to provoke a pissing match, but rather, trying to understand the process.....

 

1234
Your sleepy HID's must only be a high or low beam, so that's not that remarkable.... though it's not bad looking.

 

The stock bulb has two elements, both are positioned at different locations in the reflector. Something like this:



-s-