I have had multiple treads about lots of stuff that is wrong with my 84GS. Thanx to everyone that has helped, but I'm not out of the woods yet.

I got her started today, and she FINALLY ran long enough to get the choke to cut off. (The car was VERY hard to start when it did. I was pretty fed up and figured...this thing will start, or my starter will suffer! Well it suffered some, but it was ok.) I didn't notice the choke cutting off because the idle was set so high, but I sure was suprized when I looked back at the carb and saw the choke had released!! I adjusted the mix and idle down until I got to about 1100rpm. The car had run for about 5 mins by then. I was adjusting the mixture and went too far in, and she died. It has never started since. Tried with and without the hot start attached. Pulled plugs and they weren't flooded. Carb windows look good. I checked for vac leaks, but didn't really see why.

Here's a big old WTF from me to you. 8)

 

Are you sure your timing is good?

 

No. I haven't gotten into that yet. I guess I need to.

 

agreed, try to set mixtures/idle back to where they were when it ran and play with timing. If you still can't get it to start you'll have to just set it to TDC and eyeball it for the time being.

 

Stupid question that I'll get yelled at for: How to adjust timing?

 

What exactly do you mean by that? Pull the plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse, pull the ignition wires off the coils and crank it for 10-20seconds. If you didn't do that, then I bet it's flooded. Since you've been having some trouble starting, I'd pour a bit of MMO in there while the plugs are out. That'll give you a bit more compression for cranking until it starts the next time. It'll puff out a bunch of white smoke when it starts.

My car floods occasionaly, so what I did is installed switch in line with the fuel pump fuse. That way I can turn the pump on/off whenever I want. Makes unflooding the engine very easy

 

Get a timing light, loosen 10mm nut on dizzy, start engine, connect light, point at main pulley, move dizzy left and right until the pin matches the mark on the pulley. There's 2 marks on the pulley(red and yellow) one is for the leading plugs, the other for trailing, but I'm not sure which is which.

 

Right on, gotta get all the crap out of the motor before it will start, either crank it over with everything out and off. THen put the plugs back in and try to start it, you have to have the timing right on, or it won't run very well. Sounds like your timing is retarded.

 

oooooooooooooohhhhhhh crap. I think I have 2 stuck seals now in the front housing. With the plugs out I get pff,pff,PSST,pff,pff,PSST. This is a new issue so will I be right in thinking that it isn't horrible. I know its bad, but maybe not the end of things? I guess this is due to flooding the engine ALOT lately. As soon as someone I trust on here gives me the go ahead, I will do a MMO treatment as described in the Decarbonizing thread in the FAQ.

Sound like the right decision?
Should I expect the seals to come back to working order?

 

As far as starting the car, I would suggest pumping the gas pedal a couple times before trying to start the car - that seems to help a lot in my car during cold winter mornings. Then after you start it rev it up to 2000 rpm's and pull the choke **** back and let the car warm up for a good 3-5 minutes.

 

Hopefully I'll get to try to start it tonight. I put some MMO in the enging to hope to free the apex seals.

 

I got one of the seals unstuck, but one in the front rotor is blown. Oh well, I guess I'll try to decide what to do for a fix.

 

It only takes one bad seal to get two weak and one strong pulses. It makes sense if you think about it.

Are you sure that this hasn't been your problem all along?

 

Dude, MMO isint a miracle instant fix. Go read the writeup again. It needs time to soak in and soften the carbon. Dont be so impatient.

 

I read the title and thought it was pornographic!

 

I read pretty much all of the FAQ's as soon as I started thinking of getting a 7. When I got to go look at my car, I took out the plugs to check them(due to no start) and cranked the engine to listen. I didn't notice the problem then. Doesn't mean it wasn't there, but I didn't notice it. I have driven the car and started it with ease on some occasions.(mostly right after I got it.) It broke when I tried to fix it! lol


I understand that MMO takes time. During my impatience I used an inspection mirror to look through the lead plug holes. Two of the seals looked like fairly shiny brass rods, or something to that effect. The third looked like the same rod had been hit with a hammer and punch.

I only need this engine to last for a couple of months, then I'm going to try to get a 13b with all the fixins. Keep dreaming right? Well, I will. 8) Tonorrow I am going to finish tearing down a fully locked up engine, and just hope that 1 of the 6 seals is ok. Then I'll just limp along without a rebuild kit.

This is not what I had planned on doing with this car. I wanted to leave it with the 12a and just enjoy it. With the prices I've seen for seals/gaskets, I'm saying "screw it". That is unless some of you rebuilders have any pointers for me, or some hookups for well priced parts. I'm not trying to be a cheapass but man, I only paid $500 US for the car. The car -vs- parts ratio is starting to look pretty ugly.

Vent, vent, and more vent....sorry.