Cooling info, Don't beleive the hype!!
#1
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
Cooling info, Don't beleive the hype!!
This is not a personal attack on anyone here, but I found that I have taken the advice from people here too freely.
Here is my experience, with real facts to back it up.
I had a rebuild, and it overheated slightly the day after it was rebuilt. I had no PFC at the time, so I don't know what the temps were, but the stock gauge started to move, so you can bet it was high, or it oculd have just been an air bubble, since it never happened again. That is just background info anyway. After that I started trying to find ways to make my FD run cooler. So I flushed the system and refilled with 100% distilled water, just because everyone I came across on the board says that water cools better that antifreeze/coolant. Well, shortly after that I got a PFC so I can now monitor my temps. On 90+ degree days, driving home from work in bad stop and go traffic with the AC on, I was seeing temps as high as 108C. Now I know that is still safe, but I still don't like to see them that high. But for over a month now, I have been seeing the same, anywhere from 103-108C with the AC on in the 90+ degree weather. Well, 3 days ago, I decided to flush again, and refil with a 60/40 or 50/50 mix, not really sure but I used 1 gallon of antifreeze, and I have a Koyo radiator, so whatever percentage that works out to. For the last 3 days, on my way home from work, my temps have not gone over 97 degrees and average around 92, with everything else being the same. The temps outside are still 90+ degrees, still crank the AC (not to mention how much better the AC works now since the car isn't so hot and the pressure switch doesn't turn the AC off as much).
So just be careful what you read here and don't take it as the bible. Many may come in here and still swear that water cools better than coolant, but I will never beleive it again, because I have seen it with my own eyes now.
Here is my experience, with real facts to back it up.
I had a rebuild, and it overheated slightly the day after it was rebuilt. I had no PFC at the time, so I don't know what the temps were, but the stock gauge started to move, so you can bet it was high, or it oculd have just been an air bubble, since it never happened again. That is just background info anyway. After that I started trying to find ways to make my FD run cooler. So I flushed the system and refilled with 100% distilled water, just because everyone I came across on the board says that water cools better that antifreeze/coolant. Well, shortly after that I got a PFC so I can now monitor my temps. On 90+ degree days, driving home from work in bad stop and go traffic with the AC on, I was seeing temps as high as 108C. Now I know that is still safe, but I still don't like to see them that high. But for over a month now, I have been seeing the same, anywhere from 103-108C with the AC on in the 90+ degree weather. Well, 3 days ago, I decided to flush again, and refil with a 60/40 or 50/50 mix, not really sure but I used 1 gallon of antifreeze, and I have a Koyo radiator, so whatever percentage that works out to. For the last 3 days, on my way home from work, my temps have not gone over 97 degrees and average around 92, with everything else being the same. The temps outside are still 90+ degrees, still crank the AC (not to mention how much better the AC works now since the car isn't so hot and the pressure switch doesn't turn the AC off as much).
So just be careful what you read here and don't take it as the bible. Many may come in here and still swear that water cools better than coolant, but I will never beleive it again, because I have seen it with my own eyes now.
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (17)
Water alone has a higher heat exchange than water and coolant mix. The problem is that it also boils at a lower temperature and there it looses it's cooling ability by not properly cooling hot spots...
This is the magic of Evans because even though its heat exchange is lower, it doesn't boil at normal temperatures...
This is the magic of Evans because even though its heat exchange is lower, it doesn't boil at normal temperatures...
#6
Racecar - Formula 2000
neit_jnf
You are correct. In addition, water alone will cavitate easier (for the same reason - it has a lower boiling point) in the water pump and therefore not not flow as fast, causing higher temps.
In a system with enough cap pressure to overcome these localized boiling and cavitation problems, water, alone or with an anti-corrosion additive, does cool better than water with antifreeze.
In the FD, with its hot spots, fragile coolant o-rings, and, thus, a 13-psi radiator cap, plain water does not work well.
You are correct. In addition, water alone will cavitate easier (for the same reason - it has a lower boiling point) in the water pump and therefore not not flow as fast, causing higher temps.
In a system with enough cap pressure to overcome these localized boiling and cavitation problems, water, alone or with an anti-corrosion additive, does cool better than water with antifreeze.
In the FD, with its hot spots, fragile coolant o-rings, and, thus, a 13-psi radiator cap, plain water does not work well.
Last edited by DaveW; 08-06-04 at 09:50 AM.
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#9
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
I lost my engine recently to bad coolant seal..
So, what would you suggest??
Stick with normal green stuff and distill water? or Distill water and water wetter? or distill water and 16lb cap? or NPG+??
I've heard that NPG+ has lower heat exchange.. and sometime temp runs higher
Distill water is good, but cause higher rates of pitting
antifreeze and distill will protect and pretty much OEM.
distill water and water wetter incleases the heat exchange better than water itself??? I was thinking water wetter..
So, what would you suggest??
Stick with normal green stuff and distill water? or Distill water and water wetter? or distill water and 16lb cap? or NPG+??
I've heard that NPG+ has lower heat exchange.. and sometime temp runs higher
Distill water is good, but cause higher rates of pitting
antifreeze and distill will protect and pretty much OEM.
distill water and water wetter incleases the heat exchange better than water itself??? I was thinking water wetter..
#11
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
I am no expert, and am not here to give any advice, just my personal results. But I was running Distilled water and a 16psi cap. And obviously my results were BAD. And people keep talking about NPG running 125C no problem, but that doesn't make it good. Just because it doesn't boil at that temp, the engine still cant handle that heat.
#12
gross polluter
iTrader: (2)
Your A/C works with the PFC? I call BS
Just kidding. In my experience 25% coolant, 75% water, and a bottle of water wetter worked better than a 50/50 mix did. I believe there is a point where too much water is bad, as others said due to cavitation, boiling, etc. Of course I run Evans now, have a Koyo, and rarely see over 100C even when running the A/C in 110 degree weather.
Just kidding. In my experience 25% coolant, 75% water, and a bottle of water wetter worked better than a 50/50 mix did. I believe there is a point where too much water is bad, as others said due to cavitation, boiling, etc. Of course I run Evans now, have a Koyo, and rarely see over 100C even when running the A/C in 110 degree weather.
#13
Recovering Milkaholic
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by Str8Down
I am no expert, and am not here to give any advice, just my personal results. But I was running Distilled water and a 16psi cap. And obviously my results were BAD. And people keep talking about NPG running 125C no problem, but that doesn't make it good. Just because it doesn't boil at that temp, the engine still cant handle that heat.
Your wrong its not the heat that is the problem. It is the pressure that the steam produces that is the issue.
Evans boiling point is 370degrees F.
Water boiling temp is 212degrees F
Evans doesnt run over more than 7psi.
Try measuring the steam your boiling water is producing.
There are engines that can run off that steam pressure alone.
Evans also does not cativate and creat hot spots. The fluid is in contact with the metal at all time thus cooling more efficently. I am no expert either but i have a better understanding that you.
This is some info you should read., Hope that it helps you understand.
http://www.kneedraggers.com/pages/ht...npgdetail.html
Last edited by Fd3BOOST; 08-06-04 at 10:25 AM.
#14
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by Str8Down
I am no expert, and am not here to give any advice, just my personal results. But I was running Distilled water and a 16psi cap. And obviously my results were BAD. And people keep talking about NPG running 125C no problem, but that doesn't make it good. Just because it doesn't boil at that temp, the engine still cant handle that heat.
#15
Old Rotary Dog
My thoughts on reasonable things to look at for better cooling.
1) give it a good complete flush. lather/rinse/repeat.
2) run 60/40 or 70/30 with good coolant. water wetter optional.
3) install a real temp gauge.
4) seal up the areas on the sides of the radiator.
5) think about an aftermarket (all aluminum) radiator.
Just sme thoughts. Any other recommendations?
-bill
1) give it a good complete flush. lather/rinse/repeat.
2) run 60/40 or 70/30 with good coolant. water wetter optional.
3) install a real temp gauge.
4) seal up the areas on the sides of the radiator.
5) think about an aftermarket (all aluminum) radiator.
Just sme thoughts. Any other recommendations?
-bill