For sale section?

 

I am interested! PM me when you get a chance. I will on and off tomorrow.

 

They "seem" to work fine but I took them out to port the wastegate and this is what I found. There is a pic of the wastegate flapper fully open (look at the cracks around the opening and around the sides). How much longer do you think they will last or am I being paranoid?

Thanks

 

Those cracks are in the normal places. At first I was thinking those are the 10K mile ones for sale, in which case I'd say those have more than 10K on them ... but in your case the manifold face isn't cracked (just on the bridge and minor seams), and that wastegate cracking is very normal. They're not the best, but you'll be fine staying with them as long as the shafts, turbines, and compressors are still in good shape. Just don't expect them to be rebuildable when the time comes!

 

Take the cracked parts and grind away the edges of the openings and then weld the edges back with nickel rod (the parts must be preheated before welding) then mill the surfaces flat and do any porting .Garfinkle did this to a set of upgreaded turbos, after 20k miles they did not have any cracks .(they came out becauce of a broken apex seal)

 

I don't know much anything about welding terminology, but if the "nickel rod" is actually welding nickel metal into the cast iron pieces I don't think that's a good idea. The reason for the cracking is the extreme heat and mixing two different types of metal only leads to more stress as I see it (different expansion/contraction rates).

Again I could be totally off since I know that I know little about welding and this could be the proper treatment for a high-heat cast iron crack.

 

the factory did not use enought nickel in the castings so they crack . Nicad rod for welding cast iron (high nickel content) resist high temp cracks ,it must work.

 

ttpowerd,
Did you pull your engine to remove your turbos?

-Jon

 

Oh hairman...For us JDM guys, it's easier to remove the engine to pull the turbo's because of the steering linkages. That's why I pulled my motor in order to get to them. You don't have to do it my way. If I had a US model, I would have left the engine in place and pulled the turbo's from where they were.

 

I was just wondering, because I don't have anything to pull my engine, but I need to fix a boost problem.

 

10-19mm socket/ratchet

10-19mm open end and box end wrenches.

GLOVES

that's what you'll need.

 

It's not that hard to take the turbos off. I have yet to put them back on so I don't know about that aspect but it is probably easier just because you know exactly what to do the second time around. Takes about 3 hours to get them off (the first time).

 

Does that three hours include the time it takes to take off the intake and charge hoses and pipes?