Try disconnecting the wires to both your leading coils and driving. If it acts about the same, then it sounds like your leading coil is shot or intermittent.

You should try a different O2 sensor and see if it helps. Code 17 is a code for the O2 feedback, listen to the computer, it is often right!

Definitely replace the water temp sensor since it has been repaired and could cause lots of problems if it is messing up.

I think these 3 would be much easier and cheaper than a wiring harness and much more likely.

Be sure to reset your ECU after doing any of these fixes. I really think it is one of these problems.

Wade

 

Ok I added new battery terminals, an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the positive terminal and an 8 gauge wire from the alternator ground to the negative terminal(just for good luck). I tested the alternator and it's putting out 13.94 volts. The manual says that it should be from 14.1-14.7, but that's pretty close. The car is still gimp, but last night I had a battery charger on it and I noticed some weird behavior:
The car would idle smooth and the little meter on the charger was at the totally charged point. But when the idle dropped and the car bogged, the little meter dropped into the middle of it's range. It seems that something is either sucking all the juice from my engine, or it's not making the proper juice. Any ideas on that?

 

OK load test your current battery or just swap it with a known good one sometimes batteries will short out internally over time especially interstate batteries. Try that first and let me explain why, the alternator can be charging all it wants but if there is a problem with the battery itself all that power cannot be stored. That is when charging the battery it can tend to draw a lot of amps. Let me also ask you this do you have a stereo in your car with a amplifier? Or do you have anything electrical that you added to the car? An alarm? Let me know but try to swap the battery with a known good one first. Even if the battery is new swap another one in there and see how you do.

 

I'll try swapping the battery, but I tested yesterday and it had like 650 CCA. I don't have any electrical accessories added on either.

 

I had the same problem once and after I gassed up (at a different station) the problem went away....

 

I already tried getting more gas. That didn't help either. Any other ideas.

 

I don't know but this sounds also like a problem I incurred with my friends honda..


Cheack the actual FuelPump/ and its wireing.
Cheack all of the FuelLines
Cheack the FuelTank filler Neck. for any leaks

It sounds like you are getting H2O into the engine

I had a probelm with my FC and it having a leak inthe fuel line and had bad bucking also. maybe you should cheack all of the above...........

 

New developments: When the car is bogging(which is most of the time) the timing is incorrect. It seems that this would be due to a sensor sending bad info. What sensors affect the timing?

 

 

O2 sensor is not the problem. I tested the impedance of the coils which was fine. I regularly reset my ecu during these tests. And I'm going to try to borrow a friends PFC to look at ALL the sensor readings. Any suggestions on which to pay extra close attention to?

 

yeah cheack to see if there is water in the system.

 

New fuel filter, new gas, and no leaks. Water has no way of getting in there.

 

actuly you are wrong. Please cheack the fuel neck. Water can find it's way into anything especialy in the hight humidity climate you are in. maybe try a diffrent gas statoin.

 

I have tried 3 different gas stations.

 

This thread may have some info that could help: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=52710
check your fuel pump relay/resistor

 

Did you check the knock sensor? That will change your timing.

Paul

 

Not yet, but in the process. I'm going to borrow a friends PFC and check the sensors with the commander.

 

Ok, I did the knock sensor test that was in the manual: I jumped the TEN and GND terminals, and hooked a voltmeter up to the MEN terminal. I turned the ignition on and it was reading .44 V, and before I could tap the engine, it jumped up to 12 v on its own. I then started the car to see what would happen and it was reading 13.8 v! Am I doing something wrong, or is this normal?

 

I also disconnected the knock sensor to see what would happen, and aside from throwing a knock sensor code nothing changed. I think this could be my problem. What do I do next?

 

Did you still try tapping the engine and checking if the voltage spiked? It sounds like you either have a bad knock sensor, or bad wiring. Let us know how it goes.

Good luck,

Paul

 

Tapping does nothing, but I could be doing the test wrong. When th engine was running I had a voltmeter on the MEN and GND terminals. That might not be the right way to do it while the car is running. Is there a way to test the knock senor by splicing into it's wire? I need to know how to do this right.

 

I just tried this test on my car. Connected the TEN and GRD terminals, then hooked up a volt meter to the MEN terminal and the battery ground. With the ignition on, I was getting 0.04 volts. Tapping the engine did nothing. However, I am using a digital volt meter, and it might not pick up voltage spikes.

I just read the procedure in the shop manual again, and it says to hook the NEGATIVE lead of the volt meter to the MEN terminal.... does this mean the positive lead should go to the positive of the battery? Hmmm.... Maybe we both did the test wrong...

If you want me to check anything on my car, let me know (as long as its not too hard).

Paul

 

What manual are you looking at? I have the 93. On page F-185. It doesn't say how to hook it up. It just says to hook up a voltmeter to the MEN terminal of the diagnosis connector. Anyone else have an idea? I'm going to start another thread about how to check this.

 

I'm looking at the '94 manual, page F-171. It says, "Connect a voltmeter - terminal to the MEN terminal of the data link connector."

 

I had the same problem with my previous car.(Ford Tempo)I know I know it doesn't come close to the FD but the mechanic charged me $300 for something below the sparkplugs.He got new sparks and injectors plus something that looked like a little CPU chip.He said the CPU chip thing burned out and he replaced it.The problem never occured again.Hope this hel;ps and you can make something out of it.