ill check the one way valve to the brake booster, but can you check for it the next time youre out for a drive please? do you think that the faulty one way valve to the brake booster could be causing such a violent idle problem? thanks.

 

If the valve was really bad, you would know, because your brakes would not work. If you suspect it then you need to be careful. I don't know if your idle could be that messed up. Have you checked the LIM gasket? That can be a problem if you still have the paper gasket. I think our problems are different though, because when my car is doing it, the entire powerband is gimp, not just the idle. I keep you posted.

 

well if you just had the the engine reman at mazda i will tell you you have a ground problem i thing pittet has a fix for this i think it is even free. it is a ground kit you may want to cll them or one of the other rx-7 shop and ask them if the sell a ground kit for your proble. these cars will do that. what they do is the secondary injecters shut down at about 2800 rpms do to this ground problem. let me know if this is your problem.

 

Go here, it talk the 3k rpm hesitation fix. Works for some not all.

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/3k_hesitation.html

 

Try disconnecting your exhaust system. I've seen one time a muffler baffle come loose and severely block the exhaust, and also act like it was on a hinge and respond to exhaust pressure. An engine has to breathe to run right. I read all your posts (whew!) and all your symptoms could come from a intermittant blocked exhaust system.

Good luck.

 

johnfstrx7 and Turbo F1, I have added several heavy gauge grounding wires to no avail. The engine hasn't always done this. I don't think it is a grounding problem.
rootsgroup, I don't think it's my exhaust, because I can look straight through it(PFS) and see that it's not blocked. I appreciate, all the help, and will post again once I get to look at it with Dale.

 

Ok, Ok, Ok......I know what it is! You are low on BLINKER FLUID for your turn signals! (Sorry, I thought a little humor might cheer you up) I am totally perplexed at this point and still think it is something simple. Try to clear your mind and focus on the task at hand. Don't you just love Zen? Don't you just HATE Japanese turbo cars? You really should have bought a Honda, huh?

Did you test ALL of your solenoids and check valves in your vaccum system when you did the hose job as described in the factory manual? Could you have kinked a hose when replacing the intake manifold? It's EASY to do without realizing it!

Hang in there and don't let the bastards grind you down.

 

Ok. I have no idea why this correlates to anything mentioned here. HOWEVER…when everything else has failed…

I talked with someone here and told them about my “fuel cut” type of problem. He said that he had the same thing until he replaced his clutch. I don’t see how this can do anything at all to the related problems. ::shrug::

I let him drive my car and on a hard launch it did the “cut” then back to full throttle. It also did it while kicking out the back end on a U-Turn. He said that his did the exact same thing. Felt the same, sounded the same. He replaced his clutch (and some sensor or something that works in conjunction with the clutch) and he has never seen the problem again.

Uhhh…how is this possible? I just don’t understand how a “fuel cut” type of thing can correlate to the clutch. But like I said…what ever works.

You defiantly win the prize for the most elusive problem. I can’t spare $100 so Ill just give you an ‘E’ for effort Good luck. May the rotary gods have mercy on you're rotors.

 

cannot say anything certain but I would be looking for something that would effect spark, if the new plugs fixed it even momentarily, they must be either fouling from rich mix or poor spark. try changing coil packs, ignitors and check the voltage into the coil packs. good luck!!!!

 

I've been reading this thread for some time now since my problems were very similar.

After so many attempts the car is now running great.. I found the vacuum hose going into the regulator had a slit. I just changed the hose and problems gone. No more lumpy idle, flooding and fouling of my plugs. Mind you I've looked at that damn thing twice before finding the cause.


Good luck to you..

 

you stay right where you are you sick freak !!
I'll get Giudo to bust your kneecaps and lock you up in your cage !!!

 

You said you checked the crank angle sensors. Did you check for pickup and clearance. I just removed mine and noticed a bunch of dirt on them. knowing prox switches, the dirt can interfere with the pickup of the metal on the ring.

Tim

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=66323

I should have a definitive answer by Wednesday

 

bump?

 

so, what does it look like now, p'cola? have you and dave figured it out? i am bringing the car in to the shop also, on thursday. i am getting too impatient to figure it out myself, and the problems arent getting any lighter.

 

Dale has been to busy and Rodney hasn't gotten a chance to take his coils out yet, so I am pretty much stuck at the moment. The vacuum hoses, solenoids, and check valves are all good (except for the hoses I have reversed, keeping my CRV open). My plugs aren't bad altough they look funky: The #1 rotor plugs are black and shiny, and the #2 rotor plugs are dark brown and have a matte finish, wtf. The crank angle sensor clearance is fine, but I don't know about any dirt.
Anyone with a timing light, when checking the timing on the #2 trailing, should the timing mark be visible? Should it be the opposite of the #1 trailing? I think so, and that is what mine is doing. Just want to be sure.
I really think it has to do with insufficient spark or lack/excess of fuel. Accelerating through the power band yeilds No power until at least 3,000 rpm. After 3k or 3,500 it pops a little and then starts going faster. It's not really untill the transition at 4,500 that the car even wants to go. If I take it over about 3,000 rpm and "cruise" at that speed the car pops and backfires like it's cool. At idle it stays anywhere from 400 rpm to 700 rpm, but the car is really quiet.
I haven't been posting a lot recently because I only have a few weeks of school left this term and this car is totally affecting my grades. I want to get it fixed, but untill I can get some help I don't think there is much more I can do, short of checking every wire back to the ecu with an ohmeter. I still apprieciate all of your info, I just can't do much at the moment. Thanks
--Danny

 

Well i cant offer any help b/c i dont know a whole lot bout this.. Just wanted to say sry and hope you get it fixed soon man... Its prob something simple like you need to replace your steering wheel or something..j/k..

-Derek

 

well since they all said what i could have though might do something, this is all all i have to say http://www.csh.rit.edu/~wxs/images/humor/kermit.gif
the green guy i sthe FD the white guy is u

 

Amen

 

Ok, I haven't read all of the replies to this thread. So I may be suggesting something that someone else already has or something you have already tried.

Check your battery terminals are they good and tight on the battery, no corrosion, and good connection to the cables?

Malichi151 and myself ran into similar problems with his car and I think it ended up coming down to bad connections to the battery itself.

I thought it would be worth a suggestion Good Luck!

 

Brand new terminals and ground straps.

 

and good and tight on the battery?

 

very tight

 

Someone with a timing light or a little knowledge, fill me in. Is there a red and a yellow timing mark on these cars? I read that on the second gens the yellow mark is for trailing and the red mark is for leading, or maybe the opposite. Anyway, Help me out here guys.

 

Does no one have a timing light?