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Old 03-10-02, 01:38 PM
  #51  
Z06 powered FD

 
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If you are flowing 45psi at idle then that is plenty for high rpms, fuel pressure drops so I don't think it would be the filter. Could be your pump acting up but I still say slosh, think about it when you launch hard, all the gas is sloshing around.
Old 03-11-02, 09:40 AM
  #52  
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Re: Re: Leading Plug

Originally posted by maxcooper


The opposite is true. Also, both leading plugs are in the same circuit, so if you pull one leading wire, you will effect the spark of both. The circuit is like this (one path through the whole thing):

Ground-----L1Plug------Coil------L2Plug------Ground

I am leaning toward fuel filter now.

-Max
Sorry, you are correct - got my trails and leads mixed up!
Old 03-12-02, 07:34 PM
  #53  
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Ok, I replaced the fuel filter and put my midpipe on while it was in the air. The car is acting the same, except now I get lots of little flames shooting from the tailpipe.
Another interesting thing is that while I was driving to work, my check engine light came on, it was code 17. It has some thing to do with the feedback system. I'm going to do a search on it now, but what could this mean? I'm really starting to think that thiscould be an injector sticking open. Any other ideas?
Old 03-12-02, 09:00 PM
  #54  
Blow up or win

 
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Ok, I give up! The only idea I have now is if somehow you can INCREASE the amount of flames shooting out the exhaust you might be able to convert the sonofabitch into a "weeny wagon" and cook hot dogs at RX7 gatherings for the rest of us knuckleheads. BUMMER.

I'll go back to my trusty Japanese Mazduh shop manual ....
Code 17: You're totally f***ed now you son of a GI white boy. You may have won WW2, but now we have you by the *****!
Old 03-12-02, 09:46 PM
  #55  
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Thanks all the same Ron. Another few things: if I turn my AC on when the engine is bogging at idle it stalls. If I turn the AC on when I have it in nuetral with steady revs it drops like 2500 rpm. Also, startup is a total bitch and the check engine light flickers on and off, but it won't store a code.
Old 03-13-02, 12:04 AM
  #56  
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Now even more then before i think its etheir a o2 sensor, water temp sensor, or your computer. Reasons being that you said that there are flames coming out of your tail pipe.That is an indication of a rich condition caused by your car runs off of 2-cycles open loop and closed loop. Open loop begins at start up and has a very rich fuel/air mixture until warm up begins. Then the cycle changes over to closed loop which is a leaner mixture. Somewhere your stuck in one it seems to me. What do your plugs look like?? Take them out and see whether they are fouled out from running too rich or toasted from a lean mixture. And finally the only reason i said computer is if you cannot extract codes from it and your having the problems your having the computer maybe having a hard time communicating for diagnostic reasons. Check the plugs first and then go from there. I hope this helps.
Old 03-13-02, 12:07 AM
  #57  
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One last thing how old is your battery or your alternator??
Old 03-13-02, 12:39 AM
  #58  
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I think its the brake booster. On a more serious note, checked the fuel pump relay? Those can go bad and send an incorrect voltage to the fuel pump.
Old 03-13-02, 01:35 AM
  #59  
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I had a similiar problem on my car, the check engine light kept coming on, turned out to be the EGR valve causing the check engine light to flicker. try giving a look to the EGR valve.
Old 03-13-02, 10:09 AM
  #60  
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I'm leaning toward the O2 sensor also. Check the wire for continuity all the way. Can't remember if you said you replaced it. I put a Bosch in mine and have had no problem with it.........
Old 03-13-02, 10:12 AM
  #61  
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Here's the thing: Last night I unplugged the O2 sensor, putting it into open loop, and the car acted the same. I have no problem replacing it, but I don't want to throw money away either.
Old 03-13-02, 11:01 AM
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OK try the water temp. sensor that also effects the open and closed loop operation.
Old 03-13-02, 11:27 AM
  #63  
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Originally posted by 2-Rotor
OK try the water temp. sensor that also effects the open and closed loop operation.
I planned on it, I'm just taking my dandy time doing so, because, as I stated earlier, it's gonna be a hoe to do since it's all gooped up w/ epoxy. Thaks though.
Old 03-13-02, 12:13 PM
  #64  
Hey, where did my $$$ go?

 
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Was your car running right after the hose job? You might check the solenoids under the uim to make sure they are all working ok, especially since your now having boost probs as well. Maybe the solenoid that works the secondary throttle plates is screwed. You could check it easily buy just pulling the vacume line off the actuator at the back of the uim, I believe that would keep the plates in the open mode. I dont think that would cause all these problems though.

You harness is prob just toast.

Maybe I can think of more later, I'm at work and dont have much time right now.

What all mods do you have?

Good Luck,
STEPHEN
Old 03-13-02, 12:17 PM
  #65  
Hamado things my way!

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The last time I had the UIM off I think I switched a couple of hoses. I'm not worried about the boost problem, I can fix that. It's the rest of it that's bothering me.
I'm considering just replacing the wiring harness and sending out my injectors to RC engineering. Anybody else think that would do the trick, or should I save time/money?
Old 03-13-02, 12:24 PM
  #66  
Z06 powered FD

 
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My thermosensor went out a few months ago, I don't remember the code but you can search the forum and find my post. The car would hesitate alot and even stall and flood out because of it. NOT drivable! I don't think that is the problem.

An injector could be staying open causing it to be rich and shoot the flames and being to rich at low rpms causing hesitation.
Old 03-13-02, 12:27 PM
  #67  
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The only thing about the injectors, though, is that even with a midpipe, it doesn't smell incredibly rich.
Old 03-13-02, 12:36 PM
  #68  
hambre y sueño

 
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Originally posted by RonKMiller
Oh, btw, I've got a friend named "Louie" in South Miami and he collects on ALL my debts for me. First he breaks your left thumb... then he breaks your right thumb.....
no this is NOT me
Old 03-13-02, 12:53 PM
  #69  
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Try disconnecting your air pump and connecting it back on. When mine was loose, it sounded like sh*t, idled like ****, and smelled hell a bad. So try that also. Yes, your ground wires like everone else said too.
Old 03-13-02, 12:56 PM
  #70  
Hamado things my way!

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Have three new grounds and have disconnected the airpump several times.
Old 03-13-02, 01:11 PM
  #71  
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Whats your mods?

I think you said you added a midpipe ---- on a stock ECU?
Old 03-13-02, 01:18 PM
  #72  
Hamado things my way!

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Sorry I didn't say earlier: downpipe, resonated midpipe, pfs catback, k&n homemade intake, Pettit unlimited ecu, silicone hoses, and plenty to come(if I don't break the bank fixing this)
Old 03-13-02, 09:11 PM
  #73  
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I think I've found it! I think it's either my battery or my alternator, leaning toward alternator. If it is then it looks like bucrx7 is the winner. Or actually we're all winners for the multitudes of enlightenment achieved by this post. J/K. Hope it works. I'll let everyone know tomorrow after work.
Old 03-14-02, 11:14 AM
  #74  
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Originally posted by P'cola FD
I think I've found it! I think it's either my battery or my alternator, leaning toward alternator. If it is then it looks like bucrx7 is the winner. Or actually we're all winners for the multitudes of enlightenment achieved by this post. J/K. Hope it works. I'll let everyone know tomorrow after work.
That means we each get........exactly $5.28! I accept paypal also. BTW, replace the stock negative battery clamp, it is a POS. You can get good aftermarket ones at Batteries Plus.
Old 03-14-02, 11:19 AM
  #75  
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Originally posted by MaxRX7


no this is NOT me
Louie, Louie, Louie - how many times have I told you not to deny that you're my bitch? You do what I tell you to do, you understand? Don't make me come down there.....


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