$100 to whoever can fix my problem
#51
Z06 powered FD
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If you are flowing 45psi at idle then that is plenty for high rpms, fuel pressure drops so I don't think it would be the filter. Could be your pump acting up but I still say slosh, think about it when you launch hard, all the gas is sloshing around.
#52
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Re: Re: Leading Plug
Originally posted by maxcooper
The opposite is true. Also, both leading plugs are in the same circuit, so if you pull one leading wire, you will effect the spark of both. The circuit is like this (one path through the whole thing):
Ground-----L1Plug------Coil------L2Plug------Ground
I am leaning toward fuel filter now.
-Max
The opposite is true. Also, both leading plugs are in the same circuit, so if you pull one leading wire, you will effect the spark of both. The circuit is like this (one path through the whole thing):
Ground-----L1Plug------Coil------L2Plug------Ground
I am leaning toward fuel filter now.
-Max
#53
Hamado things my way!
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Ok, I replaced the fuel filter and put my midpipe on while it was in the air. The car is acting the same, except now I get lots of little flames shooting from the tailpipe.
Another interesting thing is that while I was driving to work, my check engine light came on, it was code 17. It has some thing to do with the feedback system. I'm going to do a search on it now, but what could this mean? I'm really starting to think that thiscould be an injector sticking open. Any other ideas?
Another interesting thing is that while I was driving to work, my check engine light came on, it was code 17. It has some thing to do with the feedback system. I'm going to do a search on it now, but what could this mean? I'm really starting to think that thiscould be an injector sticking open. Any other ideas?
#54
Blow up or win
Ok, I give up! The only idea I have now is if somehow you can INCREASE the amount of flames shooting out the exhaust you might be able to convert the sonofabitch into a "weeny wagon" and cook hot dogs at RX7 gatherings for the rest of us knuckleheads. BUMMER.
I'll go back to my trusty Japanese Mazduh shop manual ....
Code 17: You're totally f***ed now you son of a GI white boy. You may have won WW2, but now we have you by the *****!
I'll go back to my trusty Japanese Mazduh shop manual ....
Code 17: You're totally f***ed now you son of a GI white boy. You may have won WW2, but now we have you by the *****!
#55
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Thanks all the same Ron. Another few things: if I turn my AC on when the engine is bogging at idle it stalls. If I turn the AC on when I have it in nuetral with steady revs it drops like 2500 rpm. Also, startup is a total bitch and the check engine light flickers on and off, but it won't store a code.
#56
Now even more then before i think its etheir a o2 sensor, water temp sensor, or your computer. Reasons being that you said that there are flames coming out of your tail pipe.That is an indication of a rich condition caused by your car runs off of 2-cycles open loop and closed loop. Open loop begins at start up and has a very rich fuel/air mixture until warm up begins. Then the cycle changes over to closed loop which is a leaner mixture. Somewhere your stuck in one it seems to me. What do your plugs look like?? Take them out and see whether they are fouled out from running too rich or toasted from a lean mixture. And finally the only reason i said computer is if you cannot extract codes from it and your having the problems your having the computer maybe having a hard time communicating for diagnostic reasons. Check the plugs first and then go from there. I hope this helps.
#60
Blow up or win
I'm leaning toward the O2 sensor also. Check the wire for continuity all the way. Can't remember if you said you replaced it. I put a Bosch in mine and have had no problem with it.........
#61
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Here's the thing: Last night I unplugged the O2 sensor, putting it into open loop, and the car acted the same. I have no problem replacing it, but I don't want to throw money away either.
#63
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Originally posted by 2-Rotor
OK try the water temp. sensor that also effects the open and closed loop operation.
OK try the water temp. sensor that also effects the open and closed loop operation.
#64
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Was your car running right after the hose job? You might check the solenoids under the uim to make sure they are all working ok, especially since your now having boost probs as well. Maybe the solenoid that works the secondary throttle plates is screwed. You could check it easily buy just pulling the vacume line off the actuator at the back of the uim, I believe that would keep the plates in the open mode. I dont think that would cause all these problems though.
You harness is prob just toast.
Maybe I can think of more later, I'm at work and dont have much time right now.
What all mods do you have?
Good Luck,
STEPHEN
You harness is prob just toast.
Maybe I can think of more later, I'm at work and dont have much time right now.
What all mods do you have?
Good Luck,
STEPHEN
#65
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The last time I had the UIM off I think I switched a couple of hoses. I'm not worried about the boost problem, I can fix that. It's the rest of it that's bothering me.
I'm considering just replacing the wiring harness and sending out my injectors to RC engineering. Anybody else think that would do the trick, or should I save time/money?
I'm considering just replacing the wiring harness and sending out my injectors to RC engineering. Anybody else think that would do the trick, or should I save time/money?
#66
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My thermosensor went out a few months ago, I don't remember the code but you can search the forum and find my post. The car would hesitate alot and even stall and flood out because of it. NOT drivable! I don't think that is the problem.
An injector could be staying open causing it to be rich and shoot the flames and being to rich at low rpms causing hesitation.
An injector could be staying open causing it to be rich and shoot the flames and being to rich at low rpms causing hesitation.
#68
Originally posted by RonKMiller
Oh, btw, I've got a friend named "Louie" in South Miami and he collects on ALL my debts for me. First he breaks your left thumb... then he breaks your right thumb.....
Oh, btw, I've got a friend named "Louie" in South Miami and he collects on ALL my debts for me. First he breaks your left thumb... then he breaks your right thumb.....
#69
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Try disconnecting your air pump and connecting it back on. When mine was loose, it sounded like sh*t, idled like ****, and smelled hell a bad. So try that also. Yes, your ground wires like everone else said too.
#72
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Sorry I didn't say earlier: downpipe, resonated midpipe, pfs catback, k&n homemade intake, Pettit unlimited ecu, silicone hoses, and plenty to come(if I don't break the bank fixing this)
#73
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I think I've found it! I think it's either my battery or my alternator, leaning toward alternator. If it is then it looks like bucrx7 is the winner. Or actually we're all winners for the multitudes of enlightenment achieved by this post. J/K. Hope it works. I'll let everyone know tomorrow after work.
#74
Blow up or win
Originally posted by P'cola FD
I think I've found it! I think it's either my battery or my alternator, leaning toward alternator. If it is then it looks like bucrx7 is the winner. Or actually we're all winners for the multitudes of enlightenment achieved by this post. J/K. Hope it works. I'll let everyone know tomorrow after work.
I think I've found it! I think it's either my battery or my alternator, leaning toward alternator. If it is then it looks like bucrx7 is the winner. Or actually we're all winners for the multitudes of enlightenment achieved by this post. J/K. Hope it works. I'll let everyone know tomorrow after work.
#75
Blow up or win
Originally posted by MaxRX7
no this is NOT me
no this is NOT me