2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

For those that drive your FC in the winter ( snow )

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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:00 AM
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For those that drive your FC in the winter ( snow )

FOr those of you that drive your FC in snow, how does the car do? I just picked up a '90 GXL that I am going to be using as my daily driver. My 1st "mods" are going to be a LSD rear end and good snow tires. Just wondering how these cars do in the white stuff.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:05 AM
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Be very very careful, light on the throttle ease into gear, you might wanna start off in 2nd
short shift
don't do anything wild

Its a light RWD sports car, what do you expect will happen, theres not enough weight keepin the tires down they will oversteer very easily but I've driven it thru the blizzard that we had here last year so I could get home and if you drive carefully and nobody else hits you, you'll be fine
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MirageJHU
Be very very careful, light on the throttle ease into gear, you might wanna start off in 2nd
short shift
don't do anything wild

Its a light RWD sports car, what do you expect will happen, theres not enough weight keepin the tires down they will oversteer very easily but I've driven it thru the blizzard that we had here last year so I could get home and if you drive carefully and nobody else hits you, you'll be fine

It helps to have an LSD, the nonLSD cars are TERRIBLE... but the LSD cars are REAL fun and they are a little harder to get stuck with. I'll be driving my black s5 in the snow this year, but more likely.. I'll just take the audi.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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With proper tires, the FC isn't a bad snow car at all and the LSD will really help. Since the motor is very low on torque, it's not as bad as you'd think in snow. The GXL is a nice choice for the winter since it's got the amenities you'll want and is a bit heavier than many other FC's. Blizzaks on stock wheels will impress you
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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Hm. Well, I drove mine in the snow a few weeks ago (88 SE, open differential, "all season" tires) and came to the very rapid conclusion that I have no desire to do that again with the car in it's current state. I've driven in the snow quite a bit, and the '7 was by far the most difficult car I've driven in snow. Of course, the snow I was driving in was also some of the worst snow to drive in (heavy, on top of ice/water, first snow of the year).

However, I understand snow tires help a LOT, as would a LSD in the rear. I have neither. I'm just planning to fix the oil leak in my Subaru and drive that in the snow.

-=Russ=-
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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Cool, Ive driven alot of cars in the snow before, mostly trucks which I know what its like to have a torquey V-8 and no weight over the bed, but I always have the option to stick it into 4WD. I just keep thinking that this FC will be like that truck with no 4wd option... I wouldnt be going anywhere
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:20 AM
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My TII with some potenzas on it was HORRIBLE in the snow. I got stuck trying to go up a mild incline and had to take the long way to get to my house coming back from school one day. Then during lunch one time I was going like 10mph in a straight line, and my one tire went into someone elses tracks and my car just did like a 360 without any chance of making a recovery. Thank god there was nobody else on that road when it happened. When you are in control though its fun
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:21 AM
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I've been driving my 88 vert three years with no problem. But it's better to avoid really icy condition. But you have a lot of fun on empty parking lot
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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Oh, another point: Make sure your electrical system is in good shape. When I was sliding around in the slush, it was pretty clear that my electrical system wasn't very pleased with me (dash gauge was showing 12v instead of the normal 14). Several reasons for this:

Winter driving involves a full electrical load. Headlights, wipers, heater blower, rear defroster, and A/C compressor (to dehumidify the air). Plus, you're on the brakes a lot (they suck a good deal of power too).
A lot of time spent idling. My alternator doesn't really "show up" until 1000 RPM, and spending a lot of time idling at 750 RPM in traffic meant I was running on battery a lot of the time.
The stock FC alternator really rather sucks to begin with. I believe people have tested them to 60 amps or so. The "full out" load is, near as I can tell, well over 60 amps.

If I were planning to take my car out in the snow a lot, I'd probably look at a FD alternator. Getting stranded because the battery died trying to power everything would kind of suck. Alternately, make sure everything is well grounded, to get the maximum efficiency out of the stock alternator.

-=Russ=-
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:23 AM
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just convert your FC to awd
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:31 AM
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I've been driving my FC in the snow for 4 winters now. This will be the 5th winter for my FC.
I've always used winter tires. I've been using the stock 15's.

I used to use studded snow tires on the rear, and reg snow tires on the fronts, and at that time I had a open diff. The snow tires made a huge difference, and I never got stuck.

This year, I ditched the studded tires for a set of unstudded Blizzaks. And I have LSD for this winter. I look forward to the improvement. So if before it was good, this winter will be really good.

In short, just get snow tires. I would be hesitant to drive the FC with all-seasons in the winter.
-a
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo23
just convert your FC to awd
I would love to see that ^^

What ocelot said about doin a 360 is scary as hell...
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Syonyk
Oh, another point: Make sure your electrical system is in good shape. When I was sliding around in the slush, it was pretty clear that my electrical system wasn't very pleased with me (dash gauge was showing 12v instead of the normal 14). Several reasons for this:

Winter driving involves a full electrical load. Headlights, wipers, heater blower, rear defroster, and A/C compressor (to dehumidify the air). Plus, you're on the brakes a lot (they suck a good deal of power too).
A lot of time spent idling. My alternator doesn't really "show up" until 1000 RPM, and spending a lot of time idling at 750 RPM in traffic meant I was running on battery a lot of the time.
The stock FC alternator really rather sucks to begin with. I believe people have tested them to 60 amps or so. The "full out" load is, near as I can tell, well over 60 amps.

If I were planning to take my car out in the snow a lot, I'd probably look at a FD alternator. Getting stranded because the battery died trying to power everything would kind of suck. Alternately, make sure everything is well grounded, to get the maximum efficiency out of the stock alternator.

-=Russ=-
What does it take to modify a 3rd gen alternator to run on the FC? I know the pully has to be replaced, but other then that, is it just a mounting issue?

If Silverrotor is going to start selling them again that'd be ****, but I haven't heard much from him on the subject and I don't think he was going to last time I checked.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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This is about the 200th time that this has been covered. If you do a search for "winter driving", you should be able to find all the threads.

The FC does fine in the winter, as long as you know how to drive. Salt/rust is the reason I don't drive mine in the snow.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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I'd say a good tip is to pump gas often. Keeping the gas tank full will plant those winter tires down with the extra weight of some 18 or so gallons of fuel. Try carrying tools and other things in the hatch aswell.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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I drove an NA with no LSD and bald *** bologna skin tires all last winter and made it except the last day it ever snowed karma caught up and sent me into a tree Oh well if I made it I'm sure you can too.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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Keeping the gas tank over half full in winter is just a good idea in general. You reduce the risk of condensation forming and freezing in gas lines, and you also ensure that you have gas if you ever get stranded and need to run the engine to stay warm.

So... who uses a "spare short block" as weight? The trick would just be securing it properly so it doesn't go rolling around. I'm not sure the cargo straps would work for long.

-=Russ=-
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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Haha , those of us with mint interior FCs wouldnt dream of putting a shortblock back there
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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I'd never drive my rx-7 in the snow. One main reason is the tires I use have a 0 snow rating and I don't really see a point in buying snow tires and trying to do it when I have a 4x4 SUV sitting in the garage waiting
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 04:12 PM
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Snow is the reason i bought a winter vehicle (jeep). I am sure an FC would be fine in snow....but im not a fan of rust........lol
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 04:16 PM
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Yea I had another vehicle, a '95 escort for my daily driver. I just wanted another 7, so I picked up this GXL. Im going to wash it about every day to keep the salt off.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 04:18 PM
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Watch out. That water gets up in the door seal area, and/or into the locks, and freezes. It makes getting into your car REALLY difficult when both door locks are frozen, and the doors are frozen shut as well.

I picked up a Subaru wagon as a winter beater/shop car. If it gets a bit more rusted, I don't care.

-=Russ=-
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 05:04 PM
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I wouldn't recommend a LSD for the winter. Sure if you get stuck it may help you get out, but like what happened with Ocelot, if one tire cathes something instead of just free spinning (keeping you somewhat straight) both tires will break traction (sending you around). Just my two cents and experience.

Pat
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 05:16 PM
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We got our first snow today, not much yet, but it seems pretty predictable on the slick slick stuff
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 05:26 PM
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I bought my GXL in a snowstorm with completely bald performance tires. (belts showing), and drove it 410 miles back to my place doing 40 with 80 lbs of solar salt in the hatch (what else are you going to find for weight at 10:30 pm in hixxville in a blizzard?)

After upgrading to all season radials and two 70 lb tubes of sand, I had no trouble at all.

(I came down from an 83 Mustang 5.0 with no brakes, and no heat, so the Rex has been a luxury!)
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