Ok I just rebuilt my engine and about to start it. But I over heard the thermal pellet thing and afraid its going to quietly ruin my rotor oil seals. Can someone tell me where its at?

 

Well, it's not a 'pellet' originally, it's a thermostat for the oil. At a certain temp it opens up and flows oil to the rotors, but if it fails, it stops flowing oil to them (YIKES!) It's located within the front pulley bolt, once you remove it, it's inside the e-shaft.

 

wtf? If it fails it stops flowing oil?? Holy **** i better change mine too just incase. Is the Thermal pellet the only way the rotors get oil?
I glad this was posted cuz ive never known what the thermal pellet was, what is did and where it was.

 

You can read more about it at mazdatrix or atkins rotory.

 

None of my mechanics can get the 17mm nut off with their hefty impact guns. Should they be using a 3/4" drive instead? Must be some tight *** glue the factory was using.

 

It should be a 19mm, from what I can remember. Some people suggest using a 3/4" drive with a breaker bar (if it's still in the car), and setting the breaker on the frame rail, then bumping the starter (make sure it's on the DRIVERS frame rail when doing so). For me, I just put the flywheel lock on and used a nice big breaker bar with a pipe over it, took some hefty ammount of force but it finally came free.

 

Put a 19m or 3/4 socket on it with a braker bar rested on the drivers side engine bay and bump the ignition.

MAKE SURE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS @ ATKINS ROTARIES.

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/thermandirect.htm

I got one for my 10 AE @ Rotorfest for about $10.
You cant go wrong with this.

 

Makes you wonder why Mazda decided to Impliment the Oil Thermal Pellet post FB's. Sure, your Oil warms up faster but at the expense of Oil starvation to your Rotors awhile the Pellet Is waiting to be expanded.

 

Um also own a 10 AE if that was replying to me.

 

the rotors arent starved of oil, the oil just isnt allowed to flow thru them to allow faster warm up, and also when you are swapping out your thermal pellot make sure to have the clutch pushed in at all times if not the torrington bearing can fall down off the E-shaft, and thats no fun

 

I swore Atkins had better instructions on how to install it better than whats on that link..

I cant find it

 

SoRRoW: I think he meant that he wonders why mazda decided to install them on cars after the FB, don't think he meant anything to you.

Yeah, I dropped my torrington bearing on my '89 Turbo, that wasn't a fun day for me...

 

So what did you do pull the engine out and the front cover off?

 

Yeah, that's how I solved mine, I tried to do it in the car, but it just wouldn't sit on the spacer without chance of it falling again, and rather than keep paying $13 over and over, I just did it the right way and pulled it out.

 

I don't get It. Something I said?

 

This is probably the one that you're thinking of:

http://www.fc3s.org/parts_services/oilpellet.html

 

I thought you was implying towards, how could I have done it,cause the FBs didnt have a thermal pellet


*Makes you wonder why Mazda decided to Impliment the Oil Thermal Pellet post FB's. *

Did the GSL SE use thermal pellets?

 

Them instructions are 100 times better than the ones I saw,it shows more of the hands on then just telling you what to do ..

 

Ohhh that thing that I was messin with.

Does anyone know how these fail??? A chip ? dirt?

 

Dirt in the oil eventutally gumms them up.

 

Wow that write up on Fc3s.org was increadibly good, it seems really easy, you guys were making it seems like it was worse than rebuilding an engine... Im going to be doing this real soon, the only thing that worries me is how i would exert 180-200 lbs's of torque on that bolt?
Bigger breaker bar?

 

If I am gonna pre mix is there any reason to swap out the stock thermal pellet or will it become useless anyways?

 

Going to pre-mix would have nothing what so ever to do with the E-shaft thermal pellet.

You need to either make sure your engines thermal pellet is working or replace it with a bypass valve as mentioned above.

 

yea it can cost you a motor like me!

 

Your only using the brakerbar itself to rest on the sides of the engine bay while you bump the ignition and that will brake it loose