Man I'm gettin desperate.... I've searched around her to find anything that would be helpful, some of the info was, but I'm still stuck.

I just put my rebuilt TII motor in, hooked it all up right, I'm getting fuel, and I got spark, but it won't start. I've restabed the CAS several time to make sure it wasn't that. It is flooding while I try to start it with the fuel pump connect so I tried disconnecting it.

I've almost gotten it to start. I could hear the sputters and see the smoke out the exhaust. THen just as it's about to fire up........ <<<NOTING>>>.

SO I tried pull starting it, and twice it almost fired up but then nothing happened. I know these things are supposed to be a pain when theyre fresh but this is gettin me worried.

PLEASE... tell me I'm a freakin moron and a loser cause I'm forgetting that one thing.

If I don't go insane and this car actualy starts to work, I might actualy be able to enjoy it. Otherwise anyone interested in buyin this 10th AE I've got? heheheh

 

Did you put a little ATF in each housing to help out compression?

 

Try spraying some starter fluid in the intake just to get it going.

 

Yeah tried the ATF, but I don't think I put quite enough to behones. Once I get the battery recharged I'm gonna try the ATF again.

 

does putting atf in it damage the cats?

 

you say you've got fuel...but you didn't say to which rotor....you may want to double check to make sure you're getting fuel to both rotors...the easiest way to check is to disconnect the cas connector, crank the engine a time or two, and then pull the trailing spark plugs...it should have fuel on it...if they both don't have fuel on them...you're not getting fuel to one of the rotors (most likely the front rotor)

 

Your off to a good start by disconnecting the fuel pump connector.

1. Pull the bottom(lead) plugs.

2. Pull apart the fuel pump connector.

3. Spin the engine for thirty seconds to clear the engine.

4. Buy a can of starter fluid.

5. Spray clean your lead plugs with starter fluid and reinstall them.
'
6. Prior to 5 and 6, put your crank pulley on the yellow (first) mark. Pull the cas. TAke the top black cover off the cas. Align the two marks at the bottom of the cas. With them aligned, look in the top of the cas and make a mentsl note of the relationship of say a particular gear tooth to a fixed point on the cas body. Reinstall the cas. Make sure the moving and fixed points you made a mental note of are aligned. If not, turn the cas until they are aligned. Now you KNOW the bottom marks are also aligned.

7. Leave the fuel pump unplugged. Spray intot the snorkel in front of the afm for about two seconds.

8. Get in the car and depress the pedal all the way. Start the car. Do this spray routine a couple or three times. Now spray one more time, but this time have someone at the ready at the fuel pump plug. As soon as the car goes varoooooom, they MUST reconnect the plug. Car will run with some difficulty for the next hour. Rebuilds on the whole mean low compression for at least several hours imho.

It would do you some good to make a temporary fuel cut switch. Get a cheap sw from the auto store. Cut the large blue wire on the fuel pump connector about four inches back from the plug. Tie the two pieces together with the new switch. Actually, add about three feet of wire to each piece of blue wire prior to this so you can control the sw from the drivers seat.

9. If you buy new plugs, don't waster your money on the trail plugs. Just new lead plugs if you must. Trails help nadda.

10. TAke to heart the remark about how to set the cas in the engine.

11. Make sure the battery is fullly charged before doing the above. You will be successful.

12. Right now the car floods at the thought of gas due to the low compression. It WILL be better after it runs for a hour.

13. Keep the atf, oil, out of the engine. It will only foul the plugs and is not worth the effort if you follow the above instructions.

14. Note: NEVER continually spray starter fluid into the intake to keep the car running. This can and will cause pinging or detonation which is nowhere any good for the apex seals that you just spent a fortune on. Just a one to two second spray into the snorkel WILL do the job along with a fuel cut off switch or another body at the ready at the fuel pump connector.

 

Hailers... Thanks for the nice long list. I will definately try the deal with CAS. I do have a feeling that the timing is not helping me out very much at the moment. Last night I almost had it too! But turning on the fuel pump at the exact right time turned out to be a bit tricky.

I'll try all these steps, I'm so close!

 

When I put in my new motor I had to pull it around for a while until it caught. It wouldn't even hint on starting until I towed it around the block with a truck. It eventually caught. I was in 1st and did about 3-4k rpm. Smoked like a mo fo! Probably too much ATF from when it was shipped. Once I got it going and took it for a gentle ride it started fine, cold or hot.
my 2 cents worth.

 

ammymatik......one thing I did not make clear. If after spraying with starter fluid, the car does not go varooom for a moment, and after spraying again it does not go varoooom, then there is a very good chance that there is an ignition problem of some sort. If it does not go varooom with starter fluid.....it sure as heck ain't gonna start with gasoline.

Remember the cas. First thing to do right off the bat.

 

Hailers kicks ***! He is always laying the smack down with good info. !!! sweet !!!

 

Hailers!
Thank you so much. I redid the CAS the way you told me, and I must say you are awesome. There is just about no other way to do now that I've tried this method. I'm sure this helped much! got it almost started... Varrooommmeed up to 4k but then died when I pluged in the fuel pump, so I'm gonna wire in a switch tommorrow to make things a bit easier.

So there should be not too much more problems, but I just get kinda scared when it starts and begins to rev up, I really don't want it to keep going and frag my seals... that would be bad!

I'll try it again tomorrow. Hopefully I won't have to pull start it, from the looks of it I won't. Everyone keep me in their prayers! hehheh

 

One more question.. How can adjust the idle? I know its gonna wanna run at a higher idle for a while.

 

The second gen rx revs to 3000rpm for 17 seconds and then goes to a more normal idle. Part of the way the thing was designed. Yo. Make the switch so you can switch it on and off while sitting in the drivers seat.

Cars will probably smoke one heck of a lot for the first thirty plus minutes of its life. Its due to the raw gas and oil that is in the exaust manifold. It got there out of the engine. Some of its from the rebuild and part from trying to start the car and not getting burned. Its pretty far down in the exaust pipe, so as the pipe heats up it'll burn the excess oil and fuel off. Don't dispair. It'll make you think something has gone wrong. Just wait and it'll burn off in a half to one hour.

Another thing that might have made it rev up unusually high is perhaps a large vac line being off. SAy the brake boosters vac line. Probably not but might be. A small vac line wouldn't make that big a rise in revs.

One thing that might help. Make sure there is enough water in the radiator. Nothing worse than finally getting the car to run, but have to shut it down due to low water level.