You think i'll have problems with my 7 if i keep her stock! i mean place where live i don't think there are any rotary mechanic ..... so thats why i don't wanna do any mods that will mess up my 7. btw i'm getting a used 93 7.

 

Most people will recomend that you do the reliability mods: dp, ast, radiator... But if you want to keep it stock just make sure that you take considerable precautions and perform regular maintenance.

 

the short answer

YES

these cars are very high maintenance.

well they are high ADRENALINE too...but expect to pay at least a grand or two per year...plus any mods you become addicted to doing.

 

Depending on the condition of the car. If you get a 8-10 out of 10 conditioned car, you shouldn't be spending more than a couple of hundred bucks on repairs (not including maint) if you just drive 6-9k mi per year. If the car isn't in good condition, you'll be pouring $1-5k in repairs (maybe even a new motor or turbo if it's real old or abused).

The car is basically most reliable when it's stock. This obviously doesn't mean you shouldn't have the reliability mods done such as silicon hose, replacing AST, thermostat, check for fuel leak, DP, radiator (new mex must be real hot), replace all fluids with synthetic if applicablel, new plugs.

 

Well there have been cars that have lasted quite a while stock. Stock and WELL maintained isn't really that bad.

To repeat what was said earlier...

BUT I'd really suggest getting a downpipe, this really reduces underhood temps AFTER shutdown. This is technically illegal, removing the pre-cat is something that not every shop will do. Your car WILL pass a tailpipe emissions test without the pre-cat.

I'd also really recommend getting an aluminum AST (you can install this with simple hand tools) and an upgraded radiator. Both of these "mods" make the cooling system more robust.

As preventative maintence replace the thermostat every couple of years.

Otherwise stock isn't bad. The car handles awesome and is pretty fast stock.


Jeff

 

With just the reliability mods, you'll do fine. It will have LESS problems, but it's still a rotary

 

Do the downpipe mod at least.

 

As above..

Downpipe, AST, synthetics, Replace all hoses and strip tie. Being a 93 I would go ahead and replace the turbo control solenoids with NEW ones if possible while doing the tie job.... The only solenoid failure I had was the turbo control solenoid (I think the vacuum one, located just under the upper intake manifold) THREE times.

A radiator might be a good idea but I never had problems with my stock radiator... still using it after 80K miles.

 

Running stock is fine as long as all the parts are in tiptop shape.

My car was stock for over 5 years and it never gave me any trouble.

However, sonce your car will be 9 years old, I would suggest putting on a downpipe and AST as recommended by others.

The downpipe will reduce the underhood temp quite a bit. And the AST, you porbably know has a habit of bursting at an inopportune moment.

I am not convinced replacing all the rubber hoses with silicone ones is as necessary as people claim it to be. You are more likely to break solenoids doing this. As long as your boost pattern is OK, I wouldn't bother doing this.

 

Where do you live in NM? If you're in Albuquerque, there's a REALLY good rotary mechanic in the Wyoming & Central area called "Made in Japan". They do really good work and I found them to be very honest.

If you haven't yet purchased the car, get them to do a pre-purchase check on it BEFORE you buy it (It'll cost about $60)

If you're outside of ABQ, good luck.

 

I agree with you. If you're boosting fine, then DON'T do this. I have seen it all before. An attempt was made and solenoids were broke. Not a fun thing to fix on the spot

 

BTW, when I did my hose job, my hoses were all OK. That was at about 55K miles. None were cracked nor any of them about to come loose.

I didn't break any solenoids either.

But I don't think the risk/benefit ratio is there unless you are haging boost problems.

 

BrianK : are you speaking from experience? it says that you live in CA....

 

IF I DO THE reliability mods then, how much you think it'll cost me.......

 

stock or not, maintance and how it is driven is the key !

 

Basic reliability mods are all pretty cheap, parts and labor you can get a radiator, temp gauge, ast, boost gauge, and dp installed for around $1000. You don't need to do more than this in terms of mods, if you're concerned about reliability its more important to keep everything in tip-top shape than to have more exotic reliability mods. From what I've seen, on average stock or close to stock cars last longer engine-wise than modded ones, although people who keep their cars stock tend to drive them easier too.

 

I lived in ABQ for 10 years before I moved to L.A.

edit: as far as prices go (looking at my receipts):
DP: $300
DP coating: $100 (this is completely unnecessary, and a waste of money, btw)
DP install: $240
Fluidyne radiator: $450
Rad install: $200
SPI boost & temp gauge (used): $150 (I think)
gauge pod: $14 - $100
M2 ECU (used): $500 (not really necessary if you only do the reliability mods, especially at that altitude)
Fuel filter & install: $120

all this work was done here, not in ABQ.... I had "Made in Japan" do some pre-purchase inspections on a few RX7's I almost bought when I was living out there. They did all the work on my MR2 while I was there as well.

 

Made in Japan, not good.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=94956

 

I'd say that keeping a car stock and maintaining it well will give you an FD that will last longer than just about any other combination. It's a 10 year old car, I'd be worried about old water hoses bursting, the radiator being internally dirty, and other failures that can ruin the car. A lot of the "reliability mods" won't help prevent this.

I'd probably consider a downpipe, radiator and new hoses, new thermostat, fan mod for driving, and temp gauge among the most important things. And then of course, all the usual maintenance you'd do for any 10 year old car you were trying to make last.

Wade

 

where can i order these basic mods for a reasonable price..... and will installing those be time consuming????

 

this is a kinda off off topic question but i just got to wondering...i dont have a FD but lets say you were driving along and you glance at your temp gauge and its just about to overheat....WHAT DO YOU DO?


i ask this because ive heard things like shutting the car off right away is BAD and if you idle too long the car can actually heat up MORE and if you keep driving

 

Hey BrianK,

Just curious why you think it's a waste of money? I ran my downpipe uncoated for a while, then got it coated. It seemed to me that there was a drop in engine compartment temps after I got my DP coated. Of course, I didn't actually measure the temps before and after, so it could all be in my head, but it really did seem to make a difference in my car. Just my experience.

 

Agree with Red Rotary Rocket.
High temp ceramic coating on a downpipe is a very good thing - it keeps the engine compartment temp down.